Rotary Usage - Page 4

jsoto · 08-02-02, 08:25

I guess the question I'm trying to ask is ...how high of OPM (orbits per minute) can I go without damaging my paint. Since it's making random orbits, there is a whole lot less heat than RPM (revolutions per minute) as pad is doing straight rotations without any eccentric movement to it.

The cyclo goes up to 3,200 OPM and the PC goes up to 6,000 OPM. My unit goes up to 11,200 OPM. Alot of PC users run their PC at setting 6, which is at the max (6000 OPM). Can it be safe to say if I was to run this at (8000 OPM), it will not damage my paint ?

theveed · 08-08-02, 02:55

Played around with my Makita yesterday...

Not bad at all for a "quickie" buff...

http://www.pbase.com/theveed/accidental_rotary

Brakedust · 08-18-02, 03:12

Does anyone have pictures of burned paint. I've been using a rotary for about two yrs or so and haven't burned any paint yet. But as Bumpers + said, its going to happen sooner or later. I'm self-taught, so I'd be curious to actually see burned paint from somewhere.

Later,
B.

Avalanche · 08-18-02, 04:14

Quote:

Originally posted by jsoto
I guess the question I'm trying to ask is ...how high of OPM (orbits per minute) can I go without damaging my paint. Since it's making random orbits, there is a whole lot less heat than RPM (revolutions per minute) as pad is doing straight rotations without any eccentric movement to it.

The cyclo goes up to 3,200 OPM and the PC goes up to 6,000 OPM. My unit goes up to 11,200 OPM. Alot of PC users run their PC at setting 6, which is at the max (6000 OPM). Can it be safe to say if I was to run this at (8000 OPM), it will not damage my paint ?

This thread is on direct drive rotary polishing, not random orbital buffing. To burn through paint with a PC you really have to try hard.

theveed · 08-18-02, 08:07

Quote:

Originally posted by Brakedust
Does anyone have pictures of burned paint. I've been using a rotary for about two yrs or so and haven't burned any paint yet. But as Bumpers + said, its going to happen sooner or later. I'm self-taught, so I'd be curious to actually see burned paint from somewhere.

Later,
B.

I'll post one tomorrow... it's not my fault actually, when I got the car, it had a couple of burnt spots... I'll try to take a pic of it tonight...

theveed · 08-19-02, 05:02

here it is... the burn mark on my hood... don't know when it happened but it was there when I got the car... send me a PM with your email if you want a much larger pic...

2wheelsx2 · 08-19-02, 05:23

Thanks for the pic, David. So in that spot, is the clean coat all gone? It's kind of difficult to see, even in the larger pic. Do you see a different colour? Is the paint "rougher"? Do you have to treat that area differently than other areas of the car?

washman · 08-19-02, 05:36

Quote:

Thanks for the pic, David. So in that spot, is the clean coat all gone? It's kind of difficult to see, even in the larger pic. Do you see a different colour? Is the paint "rougher"? Do you have to treat that area differently than other areas of the car?

When the clear has been burned or worn away from time you will deginatetly see the difference. You can shine it up but it will always be noticable. Go ahead and treat it the same. ie. wash and wax.

theveed · 08-19-02, 05:40

The colour is definitely different, kinda like a waxed/hazed area. It's like a "halo" around that area...

The clear is gone (i believe) but the texture is smooth, just like the rest of the paint...

Nagchampa · 10-01-02, 07:13

I just ordered a Dewalt DW849 (my first rotary). I have very little experience with a rotary right now but I have been told that it is very similar to using a large stone grinder as far as the way the machine acts and jumps.

I have also worked in a bodyshop for a few years and I kinda know how not to burn paint (from what I understand, the same rules apply for buffing edges as well as grinding while doing body repair).

My plan is to start on my brothers beaters, and work my way up to my dads regularly washed but never waxed in 12 years Corsica. I guess that with about 6 months of practice I will be ready and confident enough to polish cars with minor paint problems that don't belong to family members.

I thought about starting with a PC but I decided that if I eventually want to become skilled with a rotary, I should just start learning how to use it right away.

I know that I will likely burn paint at one time and point which is why I will practise on family cars at first.

theveed · 10-01-02, 07:23

Hey welcome to the club! :P

Tip... plastic areas like bumpers are more succeptible to paint burns or paint scrapes...

The areas where the bumper curves into the trunk area is awefully thin... make sure you stick to the slowest speed and keep it moving in that area... whatever speed you use on flat metal surfaces, turn it down halfway when working on plastic ridges

Anthony Orosco · 11-02-02, 01:34

Forum,

Rarely does the need come up to use a rpm higher than 1800 when working with the majoroity of paint problems, so has been my experience.

I worked on a Jag yesterday with moderate swirls, hard water spots and scratches. The Jag was a metallic black 2001. Plan of attack was foam cutting pad with 600 grit remover - polishing pad with 1500 grit remover - from here I went to my normal polishing process and never went over 1500 RPM's.

The key is slow yet steady movement of your wheel. Keep the pads clean, not allowing product build up and practice speed control of the wheel on edges rather than "triggering" the speed because this can cause swirls.

Anthony