Rotary Usage - Page 3

Chuckmotor · 07-31-02, 08:42

Quote:

Originally posted by theveed
Great tips Chuck...

Question... what do you do on tight painted panels like in between the bumper and the taillight, under emblems, etc where the painted surface is small (about 3-4")?

How about bumpers? The areas on a bumper where it's ridged, gapped (for air passage like grilles), etc that are painted? Do you do those by hand instead?

Sometimes you will have to tilt the buffer in order to get the curves and small areas. Funny you should ask, because today I did a car today that was ridged at the bottom side panels. I slowed down the buffer and moved the buffer with the curves. Sometimes, you'll have to get the tiny spots by hand. I've had to resort to that several times. These machines are not as dangerous as I thought. Before I grabbed a rotary for the first time, I had this image of the clear coat getting zapped away. You just have to be concious of what you're doing and use some common sense, and everything will be fine. Like most things, the only way to really learn is to practice and practice until it becomes second nature. It seems odd and clunky at first, but after a while, it won't skip or jump.

theveed · 07-31-02, 08:46

How slow do you on on edges/small areas?

I have to hit the gym too... hehe... the buffer feels 3x heavier after a day's work...

Bumpers Plus · 08-01-02, 12:34

I flick the switch around edges and handles. Good to see you carwasher Jabo vw

BradE · 08-01-02, 08:01

Edges sould be done FIRST. When you start a panel you should cut in the edges first thing. For edges use a very low speed and a 3 degree angle.

washman · 08-01-02, 05:23

Quote:

Originally posted by Ryan

Dont think about burning the paint. Just remember that a clear coat is very hard and will not burn easily. As long as you are using the right products of course, ie. cc compounds, and high speed polishes.

Ryan

The clear coat in not any harder than paint, infact it is paint and it's not hard to burn through. Infact all it takes is one wrong move in the wrong spot and you will be paying bucks for a panel to be painted.

washman · 08-01-02, 05:27

Quote:

Originally posted by ShowroomLincoln
Edges sould be done FIRST. When you start a panel you should cut in the edges first thing. For edges use a very low speed and a 3 degree angle.

you could ad that you should position your buffer so the pad is buffing off the edge instead of on the edge.

Blk300ZX · 08-01-02, 07:42

I only say clear is tough because I started to learn high speed with wool pads and a product called tru grit while I detailed for an International Limo company to the stars. The cars were constantly beat and needed lots of work. So when I say clear is tough it's just from my own experiences or fortune, if you must.
Truthfully, I've NEVER burned a car. Not even once.

washman · 08-01-02, 07:57

Quote:

Originally posted by Ryan
I
Truthfully, I've NEVER burned a car. Not even once.

I wish I could say the same but I can't. I burned a fender on a f-150 we called it even for the detail $200 and I found out later the guy didnt even pay for the new paint.

Bumpers Plus · 08-02-02, 05:21

Ive use Tru grit made by Malco. Pretty abrasive stuff.

Bumpers Plus · 08-02-02, 05:27

ANYONE who has detailed for a while, WILL one time or another burn paint. Stuff happens. Sometimes its the products,pads, procedure etc. Sometimes the paint is not cured. Sometimes, you slip on something. Its going to happen. Its always best to be honest and show the customer. It pays to be honest. I detailed a 69 chevy truck, red with yellow scallops, purple pearl, and noticed a HUGE chip in the lower tailgate. I was sure I bumped into it, or something, so I pointed it out to my client when he came to pick it up, with my insurance agents number. He was boiling mad.... then he said gotcha! I did that trying to hook my trailer for my Harley up, when I was drunk! Whew! I was soooooooo happy I didnt do it. Jason

jsoto · 08-02-02, 07:27

Would anyone know how RPM/OPM come into play. How safe or high high of an OPM can I go without damaging paint.

It seems like alot of people run the PC at around 5 or 6 which is close to 6000 Orbits per minute. I happen to have a Buffer that I will want to try. It's actually a random orbit sander that convert with a 6" H&L Pad.

The OPM rating for that unit is 4,000 up to 11,200 OPM. How high of an OPM can I go till it's considered safe. I'm sure alot also has to do with whoever is opearting the machine also...

Blk300ZX · 08-02-02, 08:17

I think an orbital like a pc or cyclo can be used with no worry of burning a paint. It creates less heat unlike the rotary.