Rotary Usage - Page 19

Darkstar752 · 05-18-09, 10:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdkid

Stupid question, but what happens when you barely have any clear coat to work with? For example, a car that has been detailed many time, would that car have less clear coat to work with?

- Tien

You don't polish and you use a glaze to fill in the swirls.

lecchilo · 05-18-09, 10:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Yup... so very true. Every time I get a little buffer hop, I think "well, there's another hologram". Same thing with too much tilt. The pad has to run smooooothly over the paint to not get holograms. Of course, I don't really stress out too much about it if I'm compounding, but when it comes to final polishing, you just gotta have it smoooooth and light to not get the dreaded grams.

Sometimes it's inevitable... like that Porsche we've been talking about... I'll post a photo or two of that... M03 and FPII on Meg's 9006 pad marred the paint... PC with 6.5" white and 9006 left buffer trails... rotary with LC black and FPII worked best and PC/FPII/LC white worked well to clean up a buffer trail here and there... man I hate that paint!

Accumulator · 05-19-09, 09:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkstar752

You don't polish and you use a glaze to fill in the swirls.

Exactly

My Jag's at that point...any additional polishing messes with the ss metallic lacquer and I'm just trading the marring for different issues

Tru_Shine · 06-09-09, 11:36

wow there is tons of info on this forum. how come no one ever uses pnumatic DA's?

paintxpert · 08-28-09, 04:14

As you attempt to polish you need to know what you need to accomplish and do it with the 12 to 3 oclock position of the pad only. Steer around obstacles. Noone on the internet can show you how to polish...if it is in your blood and you get a feel for it, you will see your results improve. Back cars out into the Sun it is your guide to see how you did. If it has wheel marks pull it back in and use afinish sponge pad with a GOOD product like Menzerna from Germany! Dont use crappy products and dont use alot of product...LESS is more as it relates to product use on the surface.Get your feel for what is comfortable for you. paintxpert

paintxpert · 08-28-09, 04:21

I totally agree with the above advice your getting.... I burned my moms 1968 Galaxie the first time I put a wheel in my hand. That was 38 years ago! Dont polish over 1500 rpms and keep the sponge pads in place until you get good. I finish up with a wool pad that should have been removed from my polisher a month ago. But when I do scratch removal and REJUVENATION I need a Pad with plenty of what I call BITE you dont want that unless you are SUPER SKILLED. I always finish with a sponge pad so there are no complaints. AGAIN use GOOD products.

paintxpert · 08-28-09, 04:28

DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD! All do respect of course! Go to advancedautopolishing.com and see my pics. Da work does not create friction....no friction ....no correction on the substraight surface. PERIOD! BLACK is my specialty my customers test my abilities daily....they dont want wheel marks! I have a customer with 80 black stretches. He does NOT want wheel marks on his cars yet he washes them with a brush and bucket. I rejuvenate each one every time I do them. You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time! All the best...PRACTICE makes perfect. Keep at it. Be Well!

paintxpert · 08-28-09, 04:35

The Meg.... products have never worked for me. I have nothing against them they just dont work for me...I dont like the results I get under the wheel. I like Menzerna products and of course they are more MONEY. I like Presta products from Italy. We Americans are far behind in this technology mostly products. I like the Green Presta wool pads for anyone who HAS experience. These are the leading products and I dont guess. I do ten to 12 cars a week. I did over 300 cars this year. Every type you can imagine. Paintxpert

paintxpert · 08-28-09, 04:40

If you run into problems you can email me paintxpert@gmail.com. Be patient with yourself, it is tedious laborious work that makes you sweat. Summer makes it even worse if it is humid. Every car type is different, no auto paint is the same. Every paint will feel different under the wheel. Unfold the bends of the body in your head and have at it. Wear EYE PROTECTION and a FACE MASK! Dont breathe these products! Wear ear protection also! BenLeonedetailer

paintxpert · 09-08-09, 05:26

When your sure the clear is minimal DO NOT use anything harsh. Use a finish pad with a mild cleaner wax and about 1200 rpms. I use Stoner Speed Bead, it is a mild cleaner wax THAT WONT BRAKE THE BANK! You get great results even @ 1200 RPMs. For finish up you may be able to use an orbital polisher but dont bank on it. I am usually not into filler polishes only because it does not last. All the halos and webs return after the first rain. If the paint is shot I, always advise the customer of this condition.

Accumulator · 09-09-09, 08:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru_Shine

how come no one ever uses pnumatic DA's?

I had to use those back in the day (in a shop environment) and I never liked the air hoses (as opposed to an electrical cord). Just a personal preference as long as the speed/lenght of throw/etc. factors are OK.

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintxpert

DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD!... You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time!

Huh? I've removed even deep scratches via DA (and by rotary). The DA does the job just fine, if a bit slower. BTDT, as have many here. Saying the DA can't do what so many of us have accomplished and witnessed first-hand strikes me as a

as it just isn't so.

And there's a big difference between the various types of DAs available these days. IMO you can't just dismiss all such machines with a blanket statement that they're junk.

Barry Theal · 09-14-09, 02:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintxpert

DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD! All do respect of course! Go to advancedautopolishing.com and see my pics. Da work does not create friction....no friction ....no correction on the substraight surface. PERIOD! BLACK is my specialty my customers test my abilities daily....they dont want wheel marks! I have a customer with 80 black stretches. He does NOT want wheel marks on his cars yet he washes them with a brush and bucket. I rejuvenate each one every time I do them. You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time! All the best...PRACTICE makes perfect. Keep at it. Be Well!

Well I would have to disagree here with this. The right pad, product , and machine can do alot. Since your talking about a D/A I'm gonna think your talking about either a porter cable or a air sander. Now with the right pressure on either one of these machines you can do some serious correction. I'll bet if you put done that rotory for a night and played with a true d/a and thought outside the box. It may change alot of things that you think. I'm not saying I use a d/a for correction. I'm simply saying a D/A is a defect killer.

Surbuf Pad paired with M105 and PC is a defect killer!