Rotary Usage - Page 18

Accumulator · 12-27-08, 02:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by morven39

I have a B&D 9533 9 inch, 2400 rpm Random Orbital Polisher and would like to know...

Welcome to Autopia!

I'd repost this as a new thread. Nobody with helpful info is likely to see it here in this rotary-centric thread. Your machine is *not* a rotary polisher, and you don't (IMO) want/need one either.

I for one would *not* use the B&D machine on your paint, at least not with cotton/poly bonnets. IMO you'd be *MUCH* better off to either find some microfiber bonnets for it or, infinitely better idea: get a better machine. Seriously, that thing isn't gonna do much good and it could do a lotta harm....sorry to be so pessimistic.

Look into the Flex 3401 (nice but pricey) or the Porter Cable or Ultimate Detailing Machine. There's a mountain of info here about these.

Maybe check out the thread that coke4class recently started, in which he asked about what machine he oughta get.

coke4class · 12-27-08, 09:05

woohoo! My name was mentioned!

Indeed it is very difficult decision for a newbie to the detailing world with "machine". All i've really used was my pure elbow grease... but now i am at the point of stepping up the game...

so I am thinking about this porter cable...option... ive read nothing but good things about it from here and other forums that i am and guys use it on here...!

Thx for posting some really good info guys!

morven39 · 12-30-08, 07:38

Thanks for the reply. I will check out the Makita and Porter Cable polishers and see which one I like best. I am too old to do the polishing with elbow grease but would like to keep my car looking good.

michakaveli · 01-04-09, 06:54

Just read the entire thread... Someone posted about "not" using your QD spray to prep new pads prior to buffing. So what "are" you supposed to do to prep a clean pad prior to use. Once I've got some product on the pad and have made a few passes I just lay a strip of product on the panel, turn on the machine, angle it some and get to work without sling.

biolink · 01-28-09, 06:37

Nice work guys! New to Autopia and gravitated right to this thread. I should have joined up a long time ago.

I may stick with the PC for a while. It's working good so far. No major correction needed yet.

biolink

TheJakeR · 03-13-09, 10:38

bump for an awesome thread! just went through all 18 pages of it, and a lot of good info here. I just picked up a Makita 9227c and wanted some suggestions as to what pads/backing plates and technique everyone uses.

I came from the PC 7424 and I feel that I will fit right in with the rotary crowd. Thx autopians!!!

maxgtir · 03-22-09, 03:50

hi guys! , im new to rotary and i try my new makita on some spare parts i have for my car ... and i can't get the pad 100% flat , she always want to spin off and go crazy

Anthony Orosco · 03-23-09, 07:13

No need to keep it flat, just tilt it until the pad stops skipping. Also make sure you have enough product on your pad. The first initial time you buff you will want to use more product than normal so as to prime the pad.

Also make sure you're working on clean, uncontaminated paint. That can also cause skipping....if the paint is contaminated.

Anthony

Accumulator · 03-23-09, 08:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco

No need to keep it flat, just tilt it until the pad stops skipping...

As long as you don't *really* overdo the tilting the worst that'll happen is you'll get some worse holograms. It seems like the less you tilt the milder the holograms, so I'd only tilt it enough to avoid having to wrestle with it. If you have to *really* tilt it look for other things like the amount of product/etc.

Heh heh, I'm a little

about horning in on Anthony Orosco's advice any, especially when it comes to rotary use

If you check out the recent thread where Dave KG was coaching people on rotary use, you'll see that they're all tilting the pads a *little* bit, some more than others.

jet_m3 · 04-06-09, 12:13

Lots of good info in here thanks to all the pros who contributed.

Got my 9227 but won't be trying it out yet until I feel confident (and my 3m backing plates arrive). I've been viewing some videos of Todd and Paul on youtube, are there some that are more instructional so I can see the speed and techniques of the makita?

SuperBee364 · 04-06-09, 07:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

As long as you don't *really* overdo the tilting the worst that'll happen is you'll get some worse holograms. It seems like the less you tilt the milder the holograms, so I'd only tilt it enough to avoid having to wrestle with it. If you have to *really* tilt it look for other things like the amount of product/etc.

Heh heh, I'm a little

about horning in on Anthony Orosco's advice any, especially when it comes to rotary use

If you check out the recent thread where Dave KG was coaching people on rotary use, you'll see that they're all tilting the pads a *little* bit, some more than others.

Yup... so very true. Every time I get a little buffer hop, I think "well, there's another hologram". Same thing with too much tilt. The pad has to run smooooothly over the paint to not get holograms. Of course, I don't really stress out too much about it if I'm compounding, but when it comes to final polishing, you just gotta have it smoooooth and light to not get the dreaded grams.

sdkid · 05-18-09, 10:39

Stupid question, but what happens when you barely have any clear coat to work with? For example, a car that has been detailed many time, would that car have less clear coat to work with?

- Tien