Rotary Usage - Page 11

Anthony Orosco · 09-16-05, 07:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by littlejohn

what do you guys do to maintain a "wet buff" without using oodles of product? Especially when I'm using the Megs Compound Power Cleaner - M84 and to a lesser degree Megs Quick Detailer - M66.
I find that if I only work the product until just before it dries out, I'm forever reaching for the bottle to add more product to the pad.
I have found that if I use a couple of spray of QD to lub the pad, then I can get a bit more mileage before I have to reach for the bottle..

Btw... does anyone use a wool pad for the final buff?? to remove the LSP? If not.. what are the alternatives to doing it by hand? I would like a more glossy deeper look..

Cheers..

Personally I, and many others now, are using Optimum products. They have an almost indifinite working time and you really have to try and make these products dry out and dust up. Try them out, you'll be pleasantly surprised I am sure.

As for the wax and the wool pad.....you won't find many people removing their wax with this method. Most apply by hand and remove by hand and the rest use the PC or Cyclo.

To achieve a "wet" and "deep" glossy look to your paint then you'll need to spend more time in the prep of your paint rather than the waxing step. Wax, while it may add some gloss, should be seen as an expendable barrier between your polished paint and the enviroment.

Hope that helps,
Anthony

cgc2 · 01-06-06, 12:05

One of the best threads yet !

zey · 01-27-06, 06:47

Hi all, I worked on my front wheel fender last Sunday with the following steps:

M83/W7006/RB @ 600RPM
M83/W8006/RB @ 600RPM
M82/W9006/RB @ 600RPM

After the 3rd step, the finish looks completely swirl-free and flawless. So I put on a layer of M21 after that. Yesterday, I washed my car again and inspected the panel. I was shocked when I saw lots of holograms on the surface. I have a few questions in mind, hope any of the rotary buffing gurus can help me:

1) Was M82 merely hiding the holograms/swirls caused by Step 1 & 2?

2) Will M82/W9006 cause holograms?

3) Is my buffer running at too slow speed for Step 3?

Thanks!

Accumulator · 01-27-06, 07:34

Zey- Could be that the lighting you used to inspect lst Sunday wasn't right for showing holograms. Or yeah, the #82 might've hidden them a bit.

Yeah, some people have reported holograms with the #82/9006 combo. There are more than a few people who find #82 tricky to master.

I'm not that familiar with the Meg's products you used, but IIRC you're using too low a speed for all three steps. Also, many people who use those products (including Mike Phillips, who certainly knows what he's doing) follow up their rotary work with the PC, using something like #80, just to make sure they don't have any holograms.

Anthony Orosco · 03-07-06, 06:41

Wow.....man I just re-read through this whole thread and I came to realize just how much things change in such a short period of time.....in regards to how I now buff out cars.

I no longer use a QD to wet my pads before buffing, I now use both 6 and 8 inch pads with my rotary when I use to use mainly 6in pads and I no longer use #9, #3 or 3M and I only use a few Hi-Temp products.

I also made a few typos, like when I stated I apply sealants with the PC. I never do that

I also no longer buff in a figure 8 pattern but more of a cross stitch type pattern. I read my replies and I laughed cause I don't do many of those things now.

Anthony

Reflections · 03-07-06, 07:13

Hehe thanks for the update Anthony. I got my Metabo rotary in the mail a couple of weeks ago and I love it. I detailed a car yesterday and it came out quite nice. I have the lake country multi-surface pads with the angled edges. I am doing ok with them but they take a lot of practice! I have read that they are for pros and that a flat pad is usually recommended for beginners, but I don't have any flat pads.

Anthony - What kind of pads do you use for your rotary?

Anthony Orosco · 03-07-06, 07:41

I use mainly the Optimum pads and/or Lake Country.

Anthony

i_needit · 03-09-06, 12:57

WOW, great thread!!!!

Picus · 05-21-06, 07:25

I'm going to bump this thread just because I learned a lot from it (just read the whole thing). I've been flirting with the idea of using my rotary again and wanted to brush up on old knowledge. I have a "totally screwed" (owners comment) Audi Allroad coming up this week, so I think the ol' rotary is gonna get some work.

Cheers guys.

Accumulator · 05-22-06, 07:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Picus

. I have a "totally screwed" (owners comment) Audi Allroad coming up this week, so I think the ol' rotary is gonna get some work..

Tape the clear-anodized aluminum trim before you take the rotary to it

Picus · 05-22-06, 07:21

Thanks.

I'm going to wrap that thing like a present in painters tape. I've got all day for it, so I'm just going to take my time getting re-aquainted with the rotary. I am sure I'll have some sling early on.

metropolitandet · 09-02-06, 11:07

I have been polishing cars for about 10 years now, and am the owner of the elite detail shop in the Seattle area. I run my buffer at 3k rpms all day and usually remove scratches with either a wool/synthetic pad, or a cutting foam pad. The next step is then swirl removal, go to a medium softness foam pad, and slow rpms down to about 1800, then go to a finishing pad and slow rpms down to about 1400 and then apply your wax. Always keep polisher flat and move very slowly accross the paint, especially when you're at the swirl removal process. The paint will get hot, but nothing to worry about. When removing swirls, always use a non-silicone swirl remover, and many manufacturers will hide the word silicone in their ingredient lists pretty well. Silicone will only fill the swirls, and after a couple of car washes, the silicone will be gone, and the swirls will be back. Check out my before and after picture in extreme detail contest on Corvette.