toyotaguy-Hey, I like the way you slotted the SIP in between the
M105 and M205, that sounds like a good idea
I've been doing M205/orange instead, but you've got me thinking...
Jimenez66- If you have the proper mindset you can just read up (search for good info here at Autopia), buy a
Flex and some pads/products, and go for it. In most cases there's no need for training, practice panels, etc. *if* you have the right mindset and do the right studying beforehand.
uberyk- Some sorta-random thoughts follow:
The dust sorta comes with the territory (with most products) but it doesn't really cause real *issues* with, say...M105 if you use it properly because you're wiping everything off, and doing so before the product is completely dry. Maybe spritz the area of operation (AO) with #34 or TOL's Prep Wash before buffing off the residue.
The work you did actually doesn't sound like all that much for correcting an Audi; spending a *LOT* more time than that isn't unusual at all.
I'd do much smaller areas at a time, certainly not half a panel (even on a smallish car). A smaller AO will help you get the dust/residue/etc. issues under better control.
I'd sure switch to
M105 instead of just upping to a yellow pad. Trying to force a product to be more aggressive by switching from an orange to a yellow pad isn't likely to yield a good outcome IMO. I sure wouldn't want to try that on one of *my* Audis! If a product didn't work with orange I'd try PFW, but otherwise I'd up the product, *not* the pad.
IMO the learning curve to
M105 is nice and steep, in part because there's no product breakdown to consider. Just work small areas and clean out the pad frequently so it doesn't get loaded with clumps of dried product.
You just need something more aggressive; M105, PowerGloss, something along those lines.
Linear Mode
