HELP-Can't beat the swirls !

JSFM35X · 08-15-09, 05:39

I have tried 2 different lines of products and I cannot get my car swirl free. Looking for correction of 90% or better. Car is 2008 Infiniti M35X Black. If you can help talk me through it, I will be your best friend!

Today
Wash dawn
Clay PB Clay w/Lube (Car wash n H2o)
rewash dawn
Dry with leaf blower finish with PB WW

First:
SSR2.5 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)
SSR1 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)
Still swirls under halogen:surrender

Next:
M105 white Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)
M205 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)
Still Swirls

Now what?

I know you need to work the PB stuff until its almost gone, what about M105 and 205?

How slowly do you need to move the flex over the paint?

I just put the car away in the garage. I will try again in the early mornng with a clear head. Any advice or liniks to video's would be appreciated. Do I need to move to an orange pad? I was told by many at the detailing weekend that my car was in good shape and that all that was needed was minor correction.

I guess it could be me. I might be a moron. That is how I feel. I used to enjoy taking care of the car, but not I am not enjoying it !

Polished&Waxed · 08-15-09, 06:14

Does your infiniti have the soft paint or the hard?

are you leaving buffer trails or not putting a dent in the original scratches?

you need to start with a 50/50 and find out what is or is not happening.

ninobrn99 · 08-15-09, 06:26

you might need an orange pad or light wool, then follow with a finer polish.

For the 105, prime the pad, then spread and work a small area. Spritz with water and work until transparent. See how that works out for ya.

RTexasF · 08-15-09, 06:47

Wrong pad is the likely culprit, try orange.

Atlantic Euro · 08-15-09, 06:47

A white pad has very little cut. Move to an orange or a yellow LLC pad.

I use White for glaze.

JSFM35X · 08-15-09, 06:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polished&Waxed

Does your infiniti have the soft paint or the hard?

are you leaving buffer trails or not putting a dent in the original scratches?

you need to start with a 50/50 and find out what is or is not happening.

I have no idea if its soft or hard. The paint is getting deeper can blacker but not swirl free.

efnfast · 08-15-09, 11:09

Probably not using an aggressive enough pad

Also, infiniti paint is, from my experiences, soft.

JSFM35X · 08-16-09, 04:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by efnfast

Probably not using an aggressive enough pad

Also, infiniti paint is, from my experiences, soft.

Thanks, I will give orange a shot

efnfast · 08-16-09, 10:39

Just don't do anything stupid (e.g., keeping the buffer in one spot for an extended period of time), and you'll be fine.

I used to be terrified of more aggressive pads like orange when I started; now, that's how I usually start all my details, lol. Just be smart and you'll be okay.

Accumulator · 08-16-09, 10:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSFM35X

I have tried ..

M105 white Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)
M205 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)

Yeah, use a more aggressive pad with the M105, at least for the initial correction.

DO NOT spread at 2. Set it on 5, put the polisher's pad against the paint, and pull the trigger. Do it all on 5.

Quote:

I know you need to work the PB stuff until its almost gone, what about M105 and 205?

Do maybe ~6 passes across a smallish area. Stop, and see how it's going. You want to keep at it until either the marring is gone or the polish starts to dry out, but no longer (on either account).

Quote:

How slowly do you need to move the flex over the paint?

Fairly slowly, but no so much so that the orange pad heats things up too much. *GENERALLY* I'd say slower is better, but I've never tried counting seconds or anything like that. Don't go so slowly that the paint gets too hot or the polish at the start (of the area of operation) starts to flash before you get back to it.

After trying six, you might try eight or so. I seldom do more than that with M105.

Quote:

Do I need to move to an orange pad?

Sure sounds like it. Or a PFW pad. Or many more passes with the white and/or more pressure. Or a Griot's orange pad (in-between regular orange and white, very very good with M205 too). But I'd just use the (regular) orange for most of the work. Not pre-spreading the product oughta help.

Also, *do* use the IPA wipe. M105/M205 can leave a lot of oils on the surface.

Try a QD-spritz before buffing off the M105 residue, it'll help minimize micromarring (as the abrasives don't break down but the lubricating oils dissipate). Then IPA, then inspect.

Again, work *small* areas. Work one area until the M105 gets things quite nice, then more on. Plan on it taking longer than you'd like

Quote:

I was told by many at the detailing weekend that my car was in good shape and that all that was needed was minor correction.

Ya just never know until you start to do it, and "minor correction" is an easy answer that can mean "no need to wetsand" or "just a quick jeweling" or anything in-between.

Quote:

I guess it could be me. I might be a moron. That is how I feel. I used to enjoy taking care of the car, but not I am not enjoying it !

IMO this is the "Curse of Autopia" and I'm not kidding. People come here, read about how some of us take vehicles to near-100% (and keep them there) and then start thinking that only *that* is good enough.

And then they find it's not as easy as it looks/sounds. And then they get frustrated and start to wonder if it's just them. And then it can start to spoil the whole car-ownership/hobby thing

Please don't let this happen to you.

You're not dumb. You're not being dumb. You're learning a new skill that has a whole lotta variables.

On the bright side, the Flex/M105-M205 combo oughta lead to a *LOT* less frustration than a whole lotta other approaches. There *is* still a learning curve and it's just not as steep as anybody would like, but you'll get there eventually. And with any luck it won't take all *that* long.

See how the above advice works out and post back for clarification.

JSFM35X · 08-16-09, 02:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Yeah, use a more aggressive pad with the M105, at least for the initial correction.

DO NOT spread at 2. Set it on 5, put the polisher's pad against the paint, and pull the trigger. Do it all on 5.

Do maybe ~6 passes across a smallish area. Stop, and see how it's going. You want to keep at it until either the marring is gone or the polish starts to dry out, but no longer (on either account).

Fairly slowly, but no so much so that the orange pad heats things up too much. *GENERALLY* I'd say slower is better, but I've never tried counting seconds or anything like that. Don't go so slowly that the paint gets too hot or the polish at the start (of the area of operation) starts to flash before you get back to it.

After trying six, you might try eight or so. I seldom do more than that with M105.

Sure sounds like it. Or a PFW pad. Or many more passes with the white and/or more pressure. Or a Griot's orange pad (in-between regular orange and white, very very good with M205 too). But I'd just use the (regular) orange for most of the work. Not pre-spreading the product oughta help.

Also, *do* use the IPA wipe. M105/M205 can leave a lot of oils on the surface.

Try a QD-spritz before buffing off the M105 residue, it'll help minimize micromarring (as the abrasives don't break down but the lubricating oils dissipate). Then IPA, then inspect.

Again, work *small* areas. Work one area until the M105 gets things quite nice, then more on. Plan on it taking longer than you'd like

Ya just never know until you start to do it, and "minor correction" is an easy answer that can mean "no need to wetsand" or "just a quick jeweling" or anything in-between.

IMO this is the "Curse of Autopia" and I'm not kidding. People come here, read about how some of us take vehicles to near-100% (and keep them there) and then start thinking that only *that* is good enough.

And then they find it's not as easy as it looks/sounds. And then they get frustrated and start to wonder if it's just them. And then it can start to spoil the whole car-ownership/hobby thing

Please don't let this happen to you.

You're not dumb. You're not being dumb. You're learning a new skill that has a whole lotta variables.

On the bright side, the Flex/M105-M205 combo oughta lead to a *LOT* less frustration than a whole lotta other approaches. There *is* still a learning curve and it's just not as steep as anybody would like, but you'll get there eventually. And with any luck it won't take all *that* long.

See how the above advice works out and post back for clarification.

Great pep talk. I am going out to hit it again. Sun is jhust off my driveway and I will be at it until I am sucessful or beat!

pb_foots · 08-16-09, 02:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

IMO this is the "Curse of Autopia" and I'm not kidding. People come here, read about how some of us take vehicles to near-100% (and keep them there) and then start thinking that only *that* is good enough.

And then they find it's not as easy as it looks/sounds. And then they get frustrated and start to wonder if it's just them. And then it can start to spoil the whole car-ownership/hobby thing

Please don't let this happen to you.

You're not dumb. You're not being dumb. You're learning a new skill that has a whole lotta variables.

Man, this ought to be posted in huge block letters at the top of this forum. It is sooooo easy to fall into that trap.

Thanks Accumulator for posting that. A lot of us needed to hear it.