Ants- I fully understand the info overload. I'll try to sort things out a little. Long-winded reply follows:
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by atlantic euro
I'd get a set of good LC pads and a set of polishes you can use predictably. |
That's great advice! Limit the variables and if something is confusing (e.g., which pad has what level of cut) that's more likely to impede progress than facilitate it.
At this point I wouldn't worry about whether your paint is "soft" or "hard". Those scare-quotes are intentional because it's *hard relative to what you tried to correct it with*.
Side note regarding #83/DACP- it needs to be worked quite a while not only so it can do the correction but also so it can break down and not leave micromarring.
This is a big part of why I'm not a fan of #83 and why I believe the
M105/M205 twins are good not just for experienced detailers, but also for newbies- NO "is it broken down yet" issues with these non-diminishing abrasive products.
You made some progress, right? But you want more. OK...
The four tries with #80 isn't all that aggressive. #80 is a pretty mild product and I bet you need something with a bit more cut. Might've taken forever, but it didn't take off much clear (for better and/or for worse) and that's what counts.
You were doing the *right* thing by working a relatively small area
And if taping off smallish sections works for you, then do it. I sometimes do that exact thing myself.
I do recommend you get some
M105. It's the aggressive product I'd recommend and I would use it to get the more serious marring/RIDS improved.
M105 is pretty user-friendly in the sense of having a nice shallow learning curve; you'll probably be comfortable with it after just a little while. Do *NOT* use the "spread at 3, then speed up" with this product. Just prime the pad properly (as per
Kevin Brown ), set it on the paint, and go at speed 5 (or higher if you're using pads larger than 4"). Work it until the scratches are gone or the product starts to dry out, it doesn't break down, it just dries out so don't over-work it to that point.
I dunno how far you should go; the "nothing but perfection" approach that's so prevalent here can get people into trouble and IMO you oughta shoot for "much better but not perfect" instead. M105 will get you there a whole lot faster than #83, let alone #80.
Once the M105 gets things more to your liking you can finish up with the #80, though I do also recommend M205 and IME it leaves a nicer finish than the #80.
Working on white does present some unique challenges. You'll just have to experiment with lighting until you find what works for you. Much as I knock fluorescent lights for correction, sometimes they work well for white paint. A lot of this is, unfortunately, a matter of experience; you actually do have to "learn how to look at" the paint in question, both while doing the correction and when doing inspection. Sorry, I know that's not too encouraging but there's no magic answer to this. After a while, you'll learn to see the white product on top of the white paint and it'll be one of those "aha!" epiphanies.
I've been hearing that thrown around quite a bit and I think that will definitely help me! 
Linear Mode
