Cyclo&Menzerna on freshly sprayed paint?

efnfast · 04-03-09, 10:50

If your paint has just been freshly sprayed and wetsanded (and that's it, no buffing yet), can a cyclo and, say, Menzerna PowerGloss, then SIP, then 106 be used to effectively pull out the wetsanding marks and do the final cut/polish?

The reason I ask is because I've never worked on fresh brand new paint before. The only thing I know is that you shouldn't wax it for several months.

Flashtime · 04-04-09, 06:37

A rotary would be best. But to what grit will you be finish sanding?
Should be at least 2000 grit.

Accumulator · 04-04-09, 08:54

I've had repaints that were too soft for final polishing for the first few days/weeks. Guess you won't know if you're dealing with something like that until you try

efnfast · 04-04-09, 10:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flashtime

A rotary would be best. But to what grit will you be finish sanding?
Should be at least 2000 grit.

Unknown, but I believe 3000 - my friend does an incredible spray and wetsand job, it's just hte final detail is lacking a little bit from what I've seen (swirls, some hazing) ... figured it might be easier if I just took over from that point since I'm so anal about it.

However, I have no idea if I should let him do a pass with the rotary to remove the westanding marks (then I remove what the rotary left behind), or just do it all from wetsanding forward.

Flashtime · 04-04-09, 11:09

Quote:

my friend does an incredible spray and wetsand job, it's just hte final detail is lacking a little bit from what I've seen (swirls, some hazing) ...

If you only knew half of it... Over 90% of shops/painters have this "issue."

I see where you're coming from. Can you post some pics? Do you know which clear (exact part #) and number of coats? Hopefully, he sprayed 3 good coats.

With pics, i can tell you what grit to start with. If th peel is "moderate" then you
could start with 1500 > 2000 > 3000. Use a medium density foam block; Meguiars
has a good selection of these blocks as well.

efnfast · 04-04-09, 06:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flashtime

If you only knew half of it... Over 90% of shops/painters have this "issue."

I see where you're coming from. Can you post some pics? Do you know which clear (exact part #) and number of coats? Hopefully, he sprayed 3 good coats.

With pics, i can tell you what grit to start with. If th peel is "moderate" then you
could start with 1500 > 2000 > 3000. Use a medium density foam block; Meguiars
has a good selection of these blocks as well.

Several layers of some Dupont clear, like 72400

Sorry for the confusion, but I don't want to wetsand - I can, but I don't want to. I'm basically wondering if, after it's wetsanded, if one can use a cyclo & SIP/Power polish to remove the wetsanding on new paint (I can on 'old' paint), or if the first pass is best done with a rotary, and then move onto cyclo?

Flashtime · 04-04-09, 07:14

I've never shot that clear nor used a cyclo before. But it is a high quality clear
and should be easy going with a rotary. Especially finish sanding to 3000.

If your friend is able to do the initial compounding step with a rotary then
your work will be much easier. So sure, why not let him if only to save
you some time.

All i work on is fresh paint. And aside from the sanding, the initial compounding
step is the most time consuming. If he can level the sanding marks, then the swirls and holograms should be a walk in the park for you.

Does he finish his work like this (passenger side)?

Yes, that's my paint job. And that's not water; it's tears of joy after finishing
the drivers side nearly flawless.

efnfast · 04-04-09, 09:46

Not that bad (passenger side) - some buffer trails, but mostly swirls.

Accumulator · 04-05-09, 10:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by efnfast

..I'm basically wondering if, after it's wetsanded, if one can use a cyclo & SIP/Power polish to remove the wetsanding on new paint (I can on 'old' paint), or if the first pass is best done with a rotary, and then move onto cyclo?

If your rotary skills are such that you'll be following up with the Cyclo anyhow (mine are!), and if you usually do OK with the Cyclo and your choice of products, then I'd just go ahead and use the Cyclo.

The potential problem is is the resulting, final finish and IMO starting with the rotary won't take care of that anyhow.

Flashtime · 04-05-09, 10:58

I seriously doubt you'll get too far with a cyclo and SIP regardless of pad
choice. Unless the finish is sanded to 3000 and higher. I have some 4000+
Abralon pads, which i rarely use, but for this grit to be effective, prior sanding
sessions needs to thorough. And from here, it should be quite easy.

*Wet sanding NEEDS to be done carefully with good papers and constant
supply of fresh clean water. A tiny piece of dirt can be a royal PIA...

The pics above are old (2005?). Didn't have the benefit of Autopia
back then. And nobody skilled enough to show me how; yet i managed.
I'm considerably better now...