FLEX 3401VRG DA and makita rotary

[95supra]

Hi there.

Im quite new to machine polishing. I have polished about 10 cars or so with a cotech machine. Kinda the same as cyclo machine only much cheaper and probably not as good.. Im using cyclo pads for it and the results have been rather good.

But I would like to step it up a notch, Because the cotech polisher isn't a killer when it comes to removing imperfections on the paint.. It just isn't cutting enough it seems like. but it is exellent on lighter swirls and so.

So now I'm stepping up a notch and buying the flex 3401 VRG DA and see if this can give me any better results. Hopefully it will since its quite expensive IMO. And I'm also buying a makita rotary since from what I read this is one of the machines that give the best result, But ofcourse is harder to use than a DA machine.

But here's to my questions..

I have a black 95 supra TT and a black VW passat 05 TDI 4Motion and I know if I just started using a rotary on them I know it would turn into FUBAR. But what I would like to know is.
What is the best way to learn to detail the best.. Should I do like I said.. buy the flex and learn from that machine and then use a rotary or should I just buy the makita and keep going on scrap panels until im satisfied with the results and then jump on it and try on a "real car". Any input on what I should start off with and what not.

and is it the rotary that gives the best result, or can you achieve the same with a DA. I know the rotary is better on severe paint imperfections, But if you can remove the imperfections with a DA would you get the same result, or is the rotary superior in all categories as long as it is used right. ?

Any inputs from experienced detailers are higly appreciated. I have a good amount of money to spend on machines so that is not an issue. But I would like to learn how to do it right instead of just throw money down the drain and ending up with a bad result.

I could ofcourse just send my cars to a proffesional detailer every now and then. But I really enjoy the polishing so I would never let other people take that away from me. And there is something about that feeling knowing you did it yourself.


Thank you very much for reading my post.


Robert
Norway

[EdLancer]

If you detail alot of neglected daily drivers then a rotary is a must to remove paint defects and then repassing with a DA as the final pass. I like to do my bumpers and non visual areas with my rotary and pass my DA on the hood, roof and trunk.

[95supra]

So if I understand you correct a DA machine like the flex can get the same show shine as a rotary, But for tough jobs you can cut the time significantly with a rotary and remove deeper scratches due to the higher cutting ability.

I was thinking of starting a buisness on the side when I get a hang off it.. Nothing big, but a few cars a month would be nice.. I work offshore in norway so we have 2 weeks on and 4 weeks off so I have plenty spare time. maybe cut a deal with some of the local used car sale shops. that should give me atleast a few cars a month to play with. and ofcourse a few bucks.


I will atleast start off with buying the flex and use that for a while and then buy a rotary and take it from there. :P

[95supra]

Not many replies on this.. there should be a decent amount of flex users here. even DA ones with the machine im looking into.. Wake up Flex members.

[Buegie]

I'd buy the flex first and get a rotary later on. You should learn what cutting power different pad/product combos have before stepping up to something like a makita.

[cushdrive]

I spent literally 30 minutes on a scrap tailgate with my makita when I first got it. From there I went directly to my e36 m3. A few weeks later I polished my e46 m3 with it. Once you get the rotary you'll realize that people make it out to be a lot tougher than it really is. I did read plenty before I did all of this. I recommend you do the same.

[Lumadar]

Bringing back a semi-old thread...but for future users using search like myself- what the heck!

I currently have a FLEX 3401 and have been doing FULL correction details with that exclusively for a few months. With the proper products you can achieve what I would say is maybe 90-95% of what a rotary can, but as others mentioned, at a cost of likely 50% more time give or take.

I took a class today on the rotary and ordered myself the Makita...once I get some time under my belt with the new Makita I will be sure to post my observations and comparisons.

[JasonC8301]

Lumadar - you purchased the Makita 9227C correct?

I am about to detail a few beater cars just to bring my skill back up to par with that thing.

[ABQDetailer]

Flex is great for polishing, and the Makita is great for compounding. From what I've seen you can cut 3X faster with the Makita with a wool compounding pad versus the Flex with a PFW pad.

You simply cannot mess up your polishing/finishing process with the Flex. It's really foolproof.

[cjbigcog]

This is a very interesting thread. The cars that I have done so far with the Flex have not needed much correction. Usually an orange LC CCS pad along with Ultrafina Se or Menz SIP gets the job done. Have been thinking about adding the Makita 9227c to my collection, but am wondering if it would be a necessary addition. The Flex has been fool (me) proof. I do like the idea of the rotary's time saving qualities. After moving to the Flex from a Porter Cable, I know that much time can be saved with a better machine.

[shine]

Question for PC users that switched to Rotary?
Yet again, Makita 9227 of Flex 3401 RO?

[Lumadar]

Originally Posted by JasonC8301

Lumadar - you purchased the Makita 9227C correct?

I am about to detail a few beater cars just to bring my skill back up to par with that thing.

Yes sir!

I am about to start my search for "practice paint" Monday so I can get to work when my rotary arrives without delay.

Anyone ever call body shots? Do they give out wrecked panels?