RIDS remain after wetsanding scratch removal

gtpaul · 06-02-08, 07:50

I'm in the process of buffing a car that was completely wetsanded.
Owners did 1500/2000/2500. but when I went to attack the panel. I used

Flex>Orange>M105

It left some random scratches in the paint. I'm figuring this is from the sandpaper leaving random deep scratches from the sanding process.

I'm going to up it to Yellow CCS, but was wondering if there is anything else I should try.

The panel i did to turned out beautiful, except these RIDS that remain.

advs1 · 06-02-08, 10:19

pictures would really help

Totoland Mach · 06-03-08, 03:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtpaul

I'm in the process of buffing a car that was completely wetsanded.
Owners did 1500/2000/2500. but when I went to attack the panel. I used

Flex>Orange>M105

It left some random scratches in the paint. I'm figuring this is from the sandpaper leaving random deep scratches from the sanding process.

You are probably correct in that statement. I've never, ever used 1500 on automotive paint...it's just too abrasive and will definitely leave some sanding marks. I'd be real careful trying to remove any more marks based on what you've already done. Unless the clear coat is ultra thick.

BTW: I'm posting from a perspective of OEM paint...not custom painting.

Toto

TH0001 · 06-03-08, 05:12

Are talking about sanding marks or random scratches?

Accumulator · 06-03-08, 09:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by TH0001

Are talking about sanding marks or random scratches?

Or one more possibility (worst of both worlds)...random really deep scratches from less-than-uniform sandpaper? If it was that I might want to rewetsand with something like 3-4K. Greater control than aggressive compounding, at least IMO.

After all the sanding that's already been done, I'd want to know how much clear/paint there was to work with before I got really aggressive with it though.

wannafbody · 06-03-08, 06:12

You'll probably need a rotary and wool pads to remove the deeper scratches. Some probably won't come out.

Accumulator · 06-04-08, 09:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by wannafbody

You'll probably need a rotary and wool pads to remove the deeper scratches. Some probably won't come out.

While I certainly agree about not expecting everything to come out (at least not without overthinning the clear), the use of 3.5" PFW pads oughta do whatever *can/should* be done. I was utterly astounded at the correction I was doing with those things, had to force myself to leave *really* deep RIDS go after a while because it was so tempting to just keep at it until they (and all the clear

) were gone.

Those little PFW pads simply seem to revolutionize the corrective ability of the PC.

EisenHulk · 06-04-08, 09:52

Hey, Accumulator.

After reading about your success with the 3.5" PFW and PC, I think I am going to give it a shot. What size backing plate are you using and where did you find it? If you have already answered this in another thread, then I apologize. Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

While I certainly agree about not expecting everything to come out (at least not without overthinning the clear), the use of 3.5" PFW pads oughta do whatever *can/should* be done. I was utterly astounded at the correction I was doing with those things, had to force myself to leave *really* deep RIDS go after a while because it was so tempting to just keep at it until they (and all the clear

) were gone.

Those little PFW pads simply seem to revolutionize the corrective ability of the PC.

Accumulator · 06-04-08, 09:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by EisenHulk

After reading about your success with the 3.5" PFW and PC, I think I am going to give it a shot. What size backing plate are you using and where did you find it? If you have already answered this in another thread, then I apologize..

Heh heh, I *didn't* really answer it anywhere because I don't remember where/when I got that backing plate :confused

It's about 3 3/8" diameter (it's definitely smaller than 3.5") and it's one of those yellow rubber "flexible" types. I'd ask whoever you get the 3.5" PFW pads from, they oughta know what will work.

EisenHulk · 06-04-08, 10:01

Haha...Let the search begin then. Hmm...I have the yellow "flexible" 3.5" bp, but I guess I'm really going to search for the one you have.

If anyone knows where to find the aforementioned bp, please chime in.

Thanks, Accumulator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Heh heh, I *didn't* really answer it anywhere because I don't remember where/when I got that backing plate :confused

It's about 3 3/8" diameter (it's definitely smaller than 3.5") and it's one of those yellow rubber "flexible" types. I'd ask whoever you get the 3.5" PFW pads from, they oughta know what will work.

wannafbody · 06-04-08, 11:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

While I certainly agree about not expecting everything to come out (at least not without overthinning the clear), the use of 3.5" PFW pads oughta do whatever *can/should* be done. I was utterly astounded at the correction I was doing with those things, had to force myself to leave *really* deep RIDS go after a while because it was so tempting to just keep at it until they (and all the clear

) were gone.

Those little PFW pads simply seem to revolutionize the corrective ability of the PC.

Yep, you are right that 4 inch pads do have good corrective ability.

SuperBee364 · 06-04-08, 11:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by EisenHulk

Hey, Accumulator.

After reading about your success with the 3.5" PFW and PC, I think I am going to give it a shot. What size backing plate are you using and where did you find it? If you have already answered this in another thread, then I apologize. Thanks in advance.

This backing plate...2-3/4 Hook & Loop Backing Plate
is what you need for the 3.5" PFW.

If you're going to use it with a PC, then you need the adaptor from the following link...

D.A Adapter 5/8" X 11