created burn marks with 9227c

bud659 · 05-25-08, 05:19

I bought a used 9227c to since my PC wasnt correcting the deep scratches. I used a 3/M foam pad with their Perfect-IT Swirlmark remover. I kept the buffer moving and I still managed to burn the paint

. Any suggestions?

dsms · 05-25-08, 05:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by bud659

I bought a used 9227c to since my PC wasnt correcting the deep scratches. I used a 3/M foam pad with their Perfect-IT Swirlmark remover. I kept the buffer moving and I still managed to burn the paint

. Any suggestions?

What RPM were you using and did you tilt the pad and polish with the edge at all? May have been a very thin clear as well.

SuperBee364 · 05-25-08, 05:39

Pictures are going to be needed....

oneshare325 · 05-25-08, 05:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Pictures are going to be needed....

+1....

DaGonz · 05-26-08, 07:27

It could have been many factors..

Too long on one spot with thin paint, catching a sharp edge with thin paint, too aggressive a pad for the polish being used, etc.

It is important to practice on a junker to get a feel for the rotary.

joyriiide1113 · 05-26-08, 09:14

You sure we're talking about buffer burn and not hologramming?

bud659 · 05-26-08, 12:23

I dont understand how i created these marks. maybe its holograms

?

The 9227c is on a setting #4, 2100 RPM and my arm speed covered 2 feet length in 10 seconds with medium pressure. I had a few problems with the buffer 'jumping' out of control so I put more pressure on behind the handle. It was as if it skipped out of my hands. The foam pad was flat on the surface and I am using 3/M Perfect 3000 06064 SM Remover. This is my first time with these products and buffer.

Here are some pics. Sorry for the bad red arrows.

dmw2692004 · 05-26-08, 12:29

those look like holograms?

dsms · 05-26-08, 12:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by bud659

I dont understand how i created these marks. maybe its holograms

?

The 9227c is on a setting #4, 2100 RPM and my arm speed covered 2 feet length in 10 seconds with medium pressure. I had a few problems with the buffer 'jumping' out of control so I put more pressure on behind the handle. It was as if it skipped out of my hands. The foam pad was flat on the surface and I am using 3/M Perfect 3000 06064 SM Remover. This is my first time with these products and buffer.

Here are some pics. Sorry for the bad red arrows.

I cant really see a burn through, it looks more like buffer trails to me. A closer pic would help to see if you did in fact burn the paint IMO I think you probably did due to teh speed and pressure used. FYI 2100rpm is way to fast!!! You should not need to surpass about 1700rpm max. For correction normally I go at 1500rpm(speed 3). 2100rpm and lots of pressure will cause a ton of heat buildup and you are more likely to burn a clear.

howareb · 05-26-08, 12:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsms

I cant really see a burn through, it looks more like buffer trails to me. A closer pic would help to see if you did in fact burn the paint IMO I think you probably did due to teh speed and pressure used. FYI 2100rpm is way to fast!!! You should not need to surpass about 1700rpm max. For correction normally I go at 1500rpm(speed 3). 2100rpm and lots of pressure will cause a ton of heat buildup and you are more likely to burn a clear.

+1 on the holograms. When compounding, this can be a normal occurrence, which is the reason why you follow up with a polish. 2100rpm and pressure can be a bad combination, but it does take quite a bit to burn paint though. In short, if you use high RPM lessen up on the pressure. The great news about the rotary is that pressure is usually not as much of a factor as it is with the PC, but it is important. This is a great reference article: Buffing a car | Using proper pressure when buffing autos | Removing Swirls.

DaveXR8 · 05-26-08, 12:55

I agree with the others. looks like holograms to me.

Follow it up with a polish at 1500rpm and bring it down to 1000rpm for the last couple passes.

SuperBee364 · 05-26-08, 12:56

Until you get very good with a rotary, try not to go over 1,000 RPM. It will give you *much* more margin of safety.

When the rotary feels like it's taking off in one direction all by itself, it usually means you have either too much pressure on the far side of the pad (or the top, depending on how you look at it), or too much pressure on the near side of the pad (or the bottom).

Try this: Using a very light finishing polish and finishing pad at 1k RPM: Put the polish on the pad, spread it through your work area. Now, just use the weight of the buffer. Start it up, and start moving the head through the work area. Now just raise the handle (the handle with the trigger) ever so slightly. The buffer will start moving by itself in one direction. To stop it, simply lower the handle. Then, lower it a little bit more. It'll start moving in the opposite direction by itself. It's important to keep the handle in a neutral position. This will keep the weight evenly distributed across the entire surface area of the pad. Proper balance is crucial to being able to control the rotary.

I would highly suggest using a very light polishing wool pad and a very light weight polish on your hood over and over again until you have the rotary figured out. Don't worry about actually performing any correction or polishing; just get the technique down.

Keeping the speed at 1k or less and using a wool pad will *greatly* increase your margin of safety.

Keep at it! The rotary is fun and rewarding.