created burn marks with 9227c - Page 2

JuneBug · 05-26-08, 03:42

Excellant article "howareb" ! Should be required reading for anybody using a rotary.

Picus · 05-26-08, 03:52

2100 rpm? Dizzam man.

mystic04 · 05-27-08, 05:46

I just got my rotary last week de walt 849 for a good price.well last night was my first time trying it out with the edge waffle pads, on my red explore hood used a blue pad to start off with and some 106,. After hearing all the horror stories of rotary use. i found it's not the monster all have said it is . true it's only one hood on one car but it gave me the confidence to use one now It started off at 1000k for a few passes and 2 sections then moved up to 1400k on the second 2 sections and wow it turned out rather nice for first time use. Reading here has hepled a lot on which speeds to use where most have said no more than 1500 or under which i plan for now to stay at and just use the blue light cutting pad from edge.Till i can try out a few other pads and see how things work and which works best to get the resulted one is looking for.I think for now i will use the rotary for just the hood and roof and trunk lids to save time then use the flex and or Pc for the doors and smaller places till i become more use to the rotary.

dsms · 05-27-08, 04:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by mystic04

I just got my rotary last week de walt 849 for a good price.well last night was my first time trying it out with the edge waffle pads, on my red explore hood used a blue pad to start off with and some 106,. After hearing all the horror stories of rotary use. i found it's not the monster all have said it is . true it's only one hood on one car but it gave me the confidence to use one now It started off at 1000k for a few passes and 2 sections then moved up to 1400k on the second 2 sections and wow it turned out rather nice for first time use. Reading here has hepled a lot on which speeds to use where most have said no more than 1500 or under which i plan for now to stay at and just use the blue light cutting pad from edge.Till i can try out a few other pads and see how things work and which works best to get the resulted one is looking for.I think for now i will use the rotary for just the hood and roof and trunk lids to save time then use the flex and or Pc for the doors and smaller places till i become more use to the rotary.

I felt the same way. Fearful at first but then after using it the first time I felt very comfortable. The right knowledge beforehand makes using a rotary that much easier and less intimidating. If you want to use a rotary just buy one and practice on spare panels, play with speeds and different pads and learn the capabilities. People regard it as some ultra dangerous machine that only a skilled professionals should use when really its one of the best tools any detailer can utilize, with the right knowledge and caution of course.

robert · 05-28-08, 02:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuneBug

Excellant article "howareb" ! Should be required reading for anybody using a rotary.

+1! just got done reading that article and think im gonna read it over again. seeing how i just bought a Mak, its very informative for the rotary newbie like myself. thanks again for putting up that link howareb

IanB · 05-28-08, 05:41

Send me a note if you would like to come by and we can do a little QA with demo action at my house sometime. I am in Salem MA, and by no stretch an expert, but I certainly could help you with your problems, and identify what is going on with your paint. As for burn through, it should look almost dull compared to the clear coat around it, we can also swing by rick's place on 128 if you want to get a paint meter on the paint.

What have you done with the PC for correction, those swirls look almost untouched, and black BMW is supposed to be 'soft' so I am wondering whats going on??

private message me through Autopia, I am in Salem MA.

howareb · 05-28-08, 05:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by robert

+1! just got done reading that article and think im gonna read it over again. seeing how i just bought a Mak, its very informative for the rotary newbie like myself. thanks again for putting up that link howareb

Junebug and Robert,

Your welcome. Pressure is usually one area that most struggle with on the rotary. It is another varible that plays into getting great results.

bud659 · 05-31-08, 05:27

sorry for my late response. great feedback by all and wanted to share my progess with you

the buffer was jumping out of my hands on its own when i was applying about 5-10 lbs of pressure

This is the same pressure I use with my PC 7424, but is it fair to say that with a rotary I should use less pressure than a PC for SM correction?

when I put a light pressure on the head of the buffer, I had full control but it was very little. It was just enough pressure to have control of pc. I would guess about 2-3lbs of pressure but I felt I wasnt getting the paint correction I needed at speed #3 . So for a noob, do i use more pressure and just live with the makita losing contol, more aggressive product than 3/m SM remover or increase speed to 3.5 or 4

?

gmblack3a · 05-31-08, 05:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by bud659

sorry for my late response. great feedback by all and wanted to share my progess with you

the buffer was jumping out of my hands on its own when i was applying about 5-10 lbs of pressure

This is the same pressure I use with my PC 7424, but is it fair to say that with a rotary I should use less pressure than a PC for SM correction?

when I put a light pressure on the head of the buffer, I had full control but it was very little. It was just enough pressure to have control of pc. I would guess about 2-3lbs of pressure but I felt I wasnt getting the paint correction I needed at speed #3 . So for a noob, do i use more pressure and just live with the makita losing contol, more aggressive product than 3/m SM remover or increase speed to 3.5 or 4

?

How is the surface? Did you clay? Contaminants on the surface can cause even a wool pad to hop. Do the baggie test and see if there is anything on the surface.

bud659 · 05-31-08, 01:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmblack3a

How is the surface? Did you clay? Contaminants on the surface can cause even a wool pad to hop. Do the baggie test and see if there is anything on the surface.

wow.didnt know this. the car was washed with Megs Gold Class but not clayed.

Roishe Cheng · 05-31-08, 04:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by bud659

wow.didnt know this. the car was washed with Megs Gold Class but not clayed.

That's your first mistake. I clay every car before I compound/polish it out. If I don't clay, the pad tends to skip around more and gets a lot DIRTIER. Also, you just don't get the same feel to the paint. You might also want to get a brush and clean the foam pads every often. Also a spritz of detailing spray here and there will help to keep the temps down a little bit and provide more lubrication for the pad to move on the surface along with not drying the polish out too quickly. Keep at it, rotary work is VERY rewarding.