What pad for Megs 105?

jw · 05-20-08, 08:24

What pad would you recommend for a Meg 105 done by PC? I'll either be using 5.5 inch pads or 4 inch pads.

TTWAGN · 05-21-08, 12:29

5.5inch low profile orange or even yellow pads work well with M105.

I haven't personally used it but i have seen it used and the results were fantastic.

TSC17 · 05-21-08, 03:45

I used LC orange 5.5" pads with 105 and PC, and got very good results...about as close to LSP ready as you could imagine. This was on 8 year old Chrysler paint (champagne color). I will be testing it with white LC pads this weekend on a similar colored Toyota.

Chris223 · 05-21-08, 07:01

In the other M105 thread that's about 6 pages long, I was told with a PC, a white polishing pad was the best choice, it wont take away really any of it's cutting ability but will let it finish a lot nicer. Plus like they say, least aggressive method first. I plan to start with a white on my Pontiac, and be very careful, doing a test pannel first.

SuperBee364 · 05-21-08, 07:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris223

In the other M105 thread that's about 6 pages long, I was told with a PC, a white polishing pad was the best choice, it wont take away really any of it's cutting ability but will let it finish a lot nicer. Plus like they say, least aggressive method first. I plan to start with a white on my Pontiac, and be very careful, doing a test pannel first.

Yeah, that was me, Scottwax, and NSXTASY that recommended that pad. Specifically, the 4" white LC pad. Everyone that uses a PC should be singing the mantra of the 4" pad. It is by far more effective than any other pad size for the PC. You are able to put more pressure on a smaller area before the PC bogs with four inch pads.

As for using the white pad...M105 has a *ton* of correcting power. So much so that the pad doesn't really play a large part in how much it corrects. On the rotary, I was getting darn near as much correction with a white foam polishing pad as I was with a heavy twisted wool compounding pad. The major difference with M105 is how it finishes down with different pads. I didn't get nearly as good of a finish with the heavy wool compounding pad as I did with the white foam. It was still nice, just not *as* nice.

Using the white foam will still give you a huge amount of correction with M105, and allow it to finish down very well. You might even want to try it with a finessing pad like a black LC foam pad. I'd bet it would still give you all the correction you need with a very fine finish.

NSXTASY · 05-21-08, 08:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Yeah, that was me, Scottwax, and NSXTASY that recommended that pad. Specifically, the 4" white LC pad. Everyone that uses a PC should be singing the mantra of the 4" pad. It is by far more effective than any other pad size for the PC. You are able to put more pressure on a smaller area before the PC bogs with four inch pads.

As for using the white pad...M105 has a *ton* of correcting power. So much so that the pad doesn't really play a large part in how much it corrects. On the rotary, I was getting darn near as much correction with a white foam polishing pad as I was with a heavy twisted wool compounding pad. The major difference with M105 is how it finishes down with different pads. I didn't get nearly as good of a finish with the heavy wool compounding pad as I did with the white foam. It was still nice, just not *as* nice.

Using the white foam will still give you a huge amount of correction with M105, and allow it to finish down very well. You might even want to try it with a finessing pad like a black LC foam pad. I'd bet it would still give you all the correction you need with a very fine finish.

+1, I would also add that not only would I start with your least aggressive pad and M105, but also IMO, don't use M105 before you try a less aggressive compound/polish. It is seriously aggressive, but the finish it leaves behind can be deceiving as to the actual amount of cut.

I've tried it with a Gray 4" and 5" LC CCS and it cut just a good as the white, and as Superbee suggested it left an even finer finish.

EisenHulk · 05-21-08, 08:32

Can't wait.....to get my....M105....in from....AG!!!!!!!!

I've got a 2006 Chevy Impala (black) that a customer is wanted perfected. I took a look at it, and it is ONE GIANT SWIRL. I know GM's are notorious for hard clears...do you think my PC, along with M105 and white 4" LC pad should be enough? I have the entire line of 4" LC pads, just as an FYI

SuperBee364 · 05-21-08, 08:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by EisenHulk

Can't wait.....to get my....M105....in from....AG!!!!!!!!

I've got a 2006 Chevy Impala (black) that a customer is wanted perfected. I took a look at it, and it is ONE GIANT SWIRL. I know GM's are notorious for hard clears...do you think my PC, along with M105 and white 4" LC pad should be enough? I have the entire line of 4" LC pads, just as an FYI

Prior to M105 coming along, I woulda said "not a chance with a PC". With M105, you got a real chance at getting it done. However, as NSXTASY mentioned, you should start out gentle before reaching for the big gun. Try SIP first. If it gives you the result you need, stay with it. No sense in removing more clear than necessary. Again, as NSXTASY mentioned, M105 finishes off so well, it kinda makes you think that it's more gentle than it is... using a traditional compound leaves you with hazey, swirly paint that makes you think, "wow, I just removed *alot* of clear". Well, M105 removes even *more* clear, but it doesn't seem like it did because of it's very fine finish, as well as the fact that it only took you a few seconds to do it. Keep that in mind the whole time you're using M105, and *especially* before you consider polishing the same area twice with M105.

EisenHulk · 05-21-08, 08:58

Duly noted, sir.

Many thanks, Bee. I'll definitely start out with SIP.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Prior to M105 coming along, I woulda said "not a chance with a PC". With M105, you got a real chance at getting it done. However, as NSXTASY mentioned, you should start out gentle before reaching for the big gun. Try SIP first. If it gives you the result you need, stay with it. No sense in removing more clear than necessary. Again, as NSXTASY mentioned, M105 finishes off so well, it kinda makes you think that it's more gentle than it is... using a traditional compound leaves you with hazey, swirly paint that makes you think, "wow, I just removed *alot* of clear". Well, M105 removes even *more* clear, but it doesn't seem like it did because of it's very fine finish, as well as the fact that it only took you a few seconds to do it. Keep that in mind the whole time you're using M105, and *especially* before you consider polishing the same area twice with M105.

Chris223 · 05-21-08, 12:04

Well I bought the 12oz sampler of M105 from ADS, as well as #80. I plan to try #80 on a white pad first, and if that doesn't work, try it on an orange pad on my GM clear. If that doesn't work I guess I have to try the M105, I'm just worried about removing to much with it still though. Approx. how many passes does M105 need on a PC with a white pad?

SuperBee364 · 05-21-08, 12:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris223

Well I bought the 12oz sampler of M105 from ADS, as well as #80. I plan to try #80 on a white pad first, and if that doesn't work, try it on an orange pad on my GM clear. If that doesn't work I guess I have to try the M105, I'm just worried about removing to much with it still though. Approx. how many passes does M105 need on a PC with a white pad?

As many as it takes to get it to flash over. Well, actually a bit less than that... you want to stop polishing right before it flashes over. You'll have to get the feel for it, but you're better off stopping early than continuing to buff once it's flashed over (gone dry). It's normal to need a spray of QD to remove the residue, btw. I thought I was doing something wrong since I was needing QD to remove it, but even the guy in Meguair's M105 training video uses QD to remove the residue. Even if you find that you don't *need* QD to remove it, you might want to anyway, as the abrasives in 105 don't really break down, and you're rubbing it across the paint when you're removing the residue. Having a bit of QD to lube it as you remove it is probably a good thing.

The actual number of passes depends on too many variables to give a hard number.

NSXTASY · 05-21-08, 12:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris223

Well I bought the 12oz sampler of M105 from ADS, as well as #80. I plan to try #80 on a white pad first, and if that doesn't work, try it on an orange pad on my GM clear. If that doesn't work I guess I have to try the M105, I'm just worried about removing to much with it still though. Approx. how many passes does M105 need on a PC with a white pad?

M105 by PC:

Lay a stripe of M105 on the 2x2 area, turn to 6, using pressure pick up the compound and immediately begin working it in a uniform pattern. Keep doing so until it begins to flash and do a light, no pressure pass.

M105 flashes and begins to dry relatively quickly, dont be surprised if you get 2 passes done and its time to do a light pass. Because of the relatively quick working time, you need to get right to work as soon as you pick up the compound.

I have no problem buffing off the residue, but to be on the safe side as superbee mentioned, using a QD for lubrication doesn't hurt.

I would consider getting M83/HTemp HC/SIP/OC as well, and trying that before you go to M105.