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Old 05-09-08, 08:44   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FF really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin View Post
Is it difficult to break down the 106 when using a pad on a PC with zero bite?
It does take longer to break down with a PC, but it will do the job. Speed six required.
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Old 05-09-08, 09:42   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FF really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBee364 View Post
It does take longer to break down with a PC, but it will do the job. Speed six required.
White pad is the least aggressive I will use for any correction with the PC, even on a very soft single stage using mild polish. Especially on harder CC paints.

The rotary uses friction to make up for it, the PC doesn't have enough, no matter how many passes you make as you're just glazing, not creating enough friction for even nano polish to break down. Remember, Nano was designed for those ceramiclear finishes, so it has extra lubricity and therefore specifically designed to give the operator a longer working time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshVette View Post
Don't forget to rewash it again before you apply your sealant/wax.

Menzerna uses a wax like lubricant which you'll need to remove before you apply any waxes.

Josh

It's mineral oil and I believe glycerin as well. Best bet is to use that opportunity to apply their pure glaze, excellent stuff, and go directly to carnauba - but if you are looking to apply a sealant, I would spray the surface with IPA/wipe to prep for application.
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Old 05-09-08, 10:45   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FF really necessary?

Need some advice. Last year, I did my '01 VW for the first time with the following:

1st round:

- 2 passes entire car with 6.5" LC orange on PC speed 6 using #83 (little pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)
- 1 or 2 passes with 6.5" LC white on PC speed 6 using KAIO for follow-up

I wasn't totally satisfied so I did:

2nd round:

- 2 passes entire car with 4" LC orange on PC speed 6 using SIP (medium+ pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)

Do you think I still have plenty of clear for me to start this all over again with a rotary? I don't have a paint meter to tell, and ultimately if I screw up it's only my car. I was planning on maybe doing SIP with 6.5" orange (via the pyramid technique) on some areas and then maybe going over it with 6.5" white with one or two passes using 106ff like you guys said (using the Wal-Mart Prep-All or real Prep-Sol wipe-downs). Then maybe stepping down again with 6.5" black. Is this overkill or should I go directly to black?

I'm not familiar with the amount of clear VW typically throws on their vehicles, so I just want to be sure it's okay, even though I understand the PC doesn't grind down the clear that much to begin with.
 
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Old 05-09-08, 12:08   #16 (permalink)
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Re: Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FF really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by docrice View Post
Need some advice. Last year, I did my '01 VW for the first time with the following:

1st round:

- 2 passes entire car with 6.5" LC orange on PC speed 6 using #83 (little pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)
- 1 or 2 passes with 6.5" LC white on PC speed 6 using KAIO for follow-up

I wasn't totally satisfied so I did:

2nd round:

- 2 passes entire car with 4" LC orange on PC speed 6 using SIP (medium+ pressure, 1 - 2 inches / sec)

Do you think I still have plenty of clear for me to start this all over again with a rotary? I don't have a paint meter to tell, and ultimately if I screw up it's only my car. I was planning on maybe doing SIP with 6.5" orange (via the pyramid technique) on some areas and then maybe going over it with 6.5" white with one or two passes using 106ff like you guys said (using the Wal-Mart Prep-All or real Prep-Sol wipe-downs). Then maybe stepping down again with 6.5" black. Is this overkill or should I go directly to black?

I'm not familiar with the amount of clear VW typically throws on their vehicles, so I just want to be sure it's okay, even though I understand the PC doesn't grind down the clear that much to begin with.

You were working with a PC? Sure man.

Also, only use the 4" pad for spot areas with the rotary, no need for it with a PC if you've got everything taped off. PC pad size should be 6.5" and same for a rotary, but those 7.5" CCS pads are great for large areas, I'm transitioning to my 6.5" pads for that as well.

I need to buy some of that prep solution from Wal-Mart, but the closest one is in ghetto East Portland. lol.
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Last edited by charlesaferg : 05-09-08 at 01:22.
 
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