Glare Zero

[SVR]

Thought it would be great to show you Glare Zero by machine
What this does is soften the paint slightly and melt away wet sanding marks and deep marks in the paint (makes them much harder to see

You need to use it with a yellow or orange foam pad at 1500 to 2000 rpm
It has absolutely no cut and on occasion does bury a little orange peel

What is great about it is that it hardens later to form a stronger surface tension (after knockout, micro, spider and pro (can skip spider alot of the time) and bring the paint a little closer to being like ceramiclear.

Obviously nowhere near as good but a good improvement
Anyway the beauty about zero is that it makes the usually short working time Knockout product which will bring up the shine on almost any surface" work much longer
The special lubricatants in zero when not removed are application, make the knockout spread like OP

The main problem people have with glare is that they buy professional polish or micro finish and wonder why it doesnt do much
Pro polish on it's own doesn't do jack
you have to use zero,knockout, micro, spider and pro polish x 2 to 4 coats to get the paint to get into focus and the orange peel to be buried a little (if it's in the clear though)

Anyway I did my boot yesterday with it by rotary and am over the moon with the improved clarity, colour, wetness and depth

Was slightly out of focus and had micro scratches in it before hand
I'll take full sun shots for you too, about 4 tiny straight scratches about 1 to 2 inches long and thats it

Sure at some stage the fillers will dissappear but that won't be for about 10 months and I'll just keep putting glare pro polish on to reseal it so the sealant never dies
YouTube - Glare Zero

[David Fermani]

Here's my quick observations:
I have a very difficult time believing that this product will soften paint initially and then make it harder afterwards? (especially anywhere near CeramiClear) - Seems to me like a heavy marketing strategy. Especialy when they claim that their Pro polish can last up to 5 years. I seriously doubt that a polish can function safely by softening fully cured and baked paint without burning through it. I would have to assume it would contain a super high concentration of paint thinners to even start to soften paint. I'm interested to see what other people here think.

I also couldn't help to notice that while you were buffing, you knocked into and rubbed up against the wing/spoiler of the car several times.

[SVR]

Yes your right, I did. every other time I have taped but silly me thought that it would be ok this time

Time for some touchup hey.
Yeah dunno, who knows but it sure works great

The cars a guinea pig for all sorts of things so it doesn't matter what happens

[wannafbody]

Originally Posted by David Fermani

Here's my quick observations:
I have a very difficult time believing that this product will soften paint initially and then make it harder afterwards? (especially anywhere near CeramiClear) - Seems to me like a heavy marketing strategy. Especialy when they claim that their Pro polish can last up to 5 years. I seriously doubt that a polish can function safely by softening fully cured and baked paint without burning through it. I would have to assume it would contain a super high concentration of paint thinners to even start to soften paint. I'm interested to see what other people here think.

I also couldn't help to notice that while you were buffing, you knocked into and rubbed up against the wing/spoiler of the car several times.

Yep, I agree. If Glare Zero actually melted paint and rehardened it I'd never use it. This is a BS marketing claim unless I see some type of lab documented proof.

[SVR]

Yes I'd like some proof too but how come the paint doesn't marr when I wash it either at coin op with high pressure soap and water or by hand

It takes much longer for any marks to show up and they are so fine that I just fill them in with another coat of Glare Pro polish and reseal the paint

[David Fermani]

If it takes longer, that still means you're instilling marring right? It's just taking longer for them to actually accumulate and become visable. Plus, you probably have great wash techniques. My vehicles don't show marring either. After clearing the finish of defects initially, I maintain them with a glaze(to save my clear).

[SVR]

Actually I don't hand wash anymore, I take it to the nearby coin op car wash once a week and use their high pressure (1100 psi) warm shampoo (ph neutral, I've tested it) and then do a high and low pressure RO water rinse, spray Driven to Perfection quick spray concentrate on the paint and blot dry with WW towels

The car doesn't get anymore than mildly dirty (medium to heavy dust but no mud or grime except sill panels
My technique involves spraying the soap and water across the paint, not at it
This way (although not perfect) doesn't push the dust/dirt into the paint as I see people do all the time when blasting the soap/water straight at it