Flex 3401 vs Rotary

widyhs · 12-18-07, 09:49

I ahve heard so much positive feedback on the Flex 3401. Just a quick question to those of you who have both, woudl you recommend Flex IN place of rotary for correction work. I use PC exclusively right now and have been contemplating getting the rotary but given the risks associated with using one, would getting a Flex be a better alternative?

Also want to take this chance to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and happy holidays.

charlesaferg · 12-18-07, 10:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by widyhs

I ahve heard so much positive feedback on the Flex 3401. Just a quick question to those of you who have both, woudl you recommend Flex IN place of rotary for correction work. I use PC exclusively right now and have been contemplating getting the rotary but given the risks associated with using one, would getting a Flex be a better alternative?

Also want to take this chance to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and happy holidays.

To answer both of your question to the fullest;

Question A in your title :: If I (as an experienced user) was forced, I would choose rotary, due to it's absolutely superior correction abilities.

Question B in your post :: Since you are measuring the risks associated with a rotary, I highly recommend that you start with a Flex. I say this because you must get some experience with a rotary first if you are to use this machine 'right away', unless you have plenty of body panels and/or test vehicles than can have paint damage to practice on and destroy, I wouldn't go running into the world of rotary on your own daily drivers, or another owners' vehicle.

I am in no way implying you're going to be terrible, but learning a rotary is the time to let the damage be done. We all did it, however well we hide it.

With that said, I would not give up the rotary for the world, but I feel the need to remove any holograms with a PC/Flex. The Flex being the more effective, newer option.

Good luck sir.

MichaelM · 12-19-07, 04:55

If I could only have one machine I'd choose the strongest DA style machine I could find...Probably the Makita BO6040.

JuneBug · 12-19-07, 09:57

The question is, "What are going to be doing?" If you're just doing details on your cars and maybe a few family members - then get a PC or a Flex. The PC is much cheaper, and even though I have a rotary, I still use the PC on about every detail - applying wax, minor paint cleaning, or using a brush on the carpet.

wannafbody · 12-19-07, 05:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by MichaelM

If I could only have one machine I'd choose the strongest DA style machine I could find...Probably the Makita BO6040.

I think the Flex is more powerful and has higher OPM/RPM combo range. The Makita does have a rotary only mode but it's only about 500 rpm (IIRC). IMO the biggest drawback for the Flex is initial cost. You can get a PC for $120 and a rotary for $70 or a lot less in some cases.

MobileJay · 12-19-07, 05:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by wannafbody

IMO the biggest drawback for the Flex is initial cost. You can get a PC for $120 and a rotary for $70 or a lot less in some cases.

I will speak for myself. I bought the Flex because I wanted a powerful machine that could make my job a bit easier and not burn paint. I don't have the time to buy a rotary and practice till I'm confident to use on paying customers. I would like to get a rotary and be good at it but that takes time. I bought the Flex instead and love the machine. I sold my PC and I have no regrets.

AP2TUDE · 12-19-07, 06:10

I think that the question requires qualifications.

If you are very proficient with a rotary, then there isn't a reason to change. Skilled rotary users don't need a DA polisher for most tasks. Of course there are always exceptions such as tight areas, bumpers, etc...but assuming that the polisher will be used for standard panels a rotary is always more than sufficient.

If you aren't skilled with a rotary, then obviously the flex is the machine of choice.

The downside of the flex currently is a lack of any different backing plate sizes. To name the same cases that I did for the rotary such as tight spaces, bumpers, etc...the flex isn't necessary as flexible as the PC.

So...what is the answer? I think that you need either a rotary and a PC, or a Flex and a PC. That way no matter what comes your way, you are sufficiently equipped. Your choice of machine will vary based on your skill with either. I don't think that the flex is sufficiently awesome to make skilled rotary users put their machines away for an orbital. At the end of the day, the rotary is still king as far as gloss level that is achievable and correction ability.

wannafbody · 12-19-07, 06:29

The 4 inch pad option with the PC or rotary is nice.

widyhs · 12-19-07, 06:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuneBug

The question is, "What are going to be doing?" If you're just doing details on your cars and maybe a few family members - then get a PC or a Flex. The PC is much cheaper, and even though I have a rotary, I still use the PC on about every detail - applying wax, minor paint cleaning, or using a brush on the carpet.

I do about 10 cars a week and I want to cut down on the time I spend on paint correction. The PC is OK except when it comes to soemhting requiring extra cutting power. I haven't got any proper exposure to rotary but willing to give it a try. However, if I can get away with the Flex, I thought why not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MobileJay

I will speak for myself. I bought the Flex because I wanted a powerful machine that could make my job a bit easier and not burn paint. I don't have the time to buy a rotary and practice till I'm confident to use on paying customers. I would like to get a rotary and be good at it but that takes time. I bought the Flex instead and love the machine. I sold my PC and I have no regrets.

The Flex is a very expensive machine though. Perhaps there is someone in LA area willing to lease it out for a week?

detaildoc · 12-19-07, 06:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuneBug

The question is, "What are going to be doing?" If you're just doing details on your cars and maybe a few family members - then get a PC or a Flex. The PC is much cheaper, and even though I have a rotary, I still use the PC on about every detail - applying wax, minor paint cleaning, or using a brush on the carpet.

How do you use a brush on a carpet with a PC? Is there an attachment? Can this be done with a UDM?

charlesaferg · 12-19-07, 06:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemyes350

How do you use a brush on a carpet with a PC? Is there an attachment? Can this be done with a UDM?

Search - or go on google and search for autogeek. A few months back they had some for the PC7424.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AP2TUDE

I think that the question requires qualifications.

If you are very proficient with a rotary, then there isn't a reason to change. Skilled rotary users don't need a DA polisher for most tasks. Of course there are always exceptions such as tight areas, bumpers, etc...but assuming that the polisher will be used for standard panels a rotary is always more than sufficient.

If you aren't skilled with a rotary, then obviously the flex is the machine of choice.

The downside of the flex currently is a lack of any different backing plate sizes. To name the same cases that I did for the rotary such as tight spaces, bumpers, etc...the flex isn't necessary as flexible as the PC.

So...what is the answer? I think that you need either a rotary and a PC, or a Flex and a PC. That way no matter what comes your way, you are sufficiently equipped. Your choice of machine will vary based on your skill with either. I don't think that the flex is sufficiently awesome to make skilled rotary users put their machines away for an orbital. At the end of the day, the rotary is still king as far as gloss level that is achievable and correction ability.

First, I must ask - What are standard panels? I have never found such things.

The Flex machine does not have the true correction abilities of the rotary.
It is indeed more powerful than a PC7424.

I use a Metabo rotary and a Flex - The Flex is for finishing to remove holograms, this, of course, leaves me no reason to use fillers at all - The result is a visually perfect finish, even in direct, moving sunlight. I use a combination of 6.5in pads and 4in pads on either machine.
Takes quite a while, but a lot shorter than trying to do the same with a Flex, let alone a PC7424.

Obviously, as this user has stated, qualifications are the most important over any other variable. Learn with a rotary, you will be glad you did - but do it in a manner that won't be risking other peoples' vehicles. You will be very sorry, having to pay someone for a paint.

Other than that, a flex is excellent with smaller pads, you can always retrofit a backing plate. Another user did this as well, but made a writeup - search, I'm sure that you will find it. It was quite informative.

I tore my PC up from constant use. I run it hard, but not as hard as my Metabo rotary, which holds up magnificiently.
On a side note, the Metabo rotary is a torque machine - real fun to use, but takes a bit to tame.
I have lost faith in the build quality of the "PC" style random orbital design, exterior and interior.

JuneBug · 12-20-07, 09:05

If you do 10 cars a week, I'd say get the rotary and a keep the PC too. You will find on cars that need a lot of correction that it will take at least three steps: compound, polish and final polish. These can all be done faster and easier with a rotary. Me? I use 3M extra cut, IP and 3M ultrafina - but that's just my choices, there are many more.