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Thread: Pad repair?

  1. #13
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    Havent tried the pad out again, but having let the 3m adhesive dry overnight, it seems to be attached as solid as a rock. We will see how it holds up
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  2. #14
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    SFX pads...ok. I used DAS. Maybe these are the pads to have then.
    '02 CAMARO SS SOM; 5.7L LS1/FLS6B
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  3. #15
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    If you use the SFX pads you won't need to go to 6.

    Because of their size and firmness, they transfer the PC's energy more efficiently to the paint (less pad distortion means less energy is absorbed, which also means less internal heat is generated).

    Dont get me wrong...I love the DAS pads and use them more than any. But if you have troubles using them then SFX is the next step.
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  4. #16
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    NorCal, consider a 6" BP. Im not familiar with the pads your using but if you can get a 6" BP across that backing, and still have a little room for centering adjustment, I think you would be better off. If the pads are recessed, you may find you like the polishing pocket it creates with a 6" BP. You'll discover you will have better outside tork and control, along with better edge stability. this may help in eliminating pad/backing failure. At least this is my experience.....
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  5. #17
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    Quote: Originally Posted by Tasty
    I say this all the time, but this is the reason I don't use speed 6 on the PC.
    Ditto. Speed 6 is reserved for a rare occassion.

  6. #18
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    Ok (not to hijack the thread) I may try those suggestions. I was surprised when my orange DAS started separating at speed 6. I had a challenging job, thus I went with 6 with this pad. I was kind of surprised at what happened.
    '02 CAMARO SS SOM; 5.7L LS1/FLS6B
    '08 TBSS AWD Black Granite Metallic

  7. #19
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    Mu blue pad came away from the velcro tonight when I was removing it from the backing plate - not even in use. This is the first time I have used the pad, does that mean it is defective or do you need to be really careful taking them off?

  8. #20
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    When removing did u remove the pad by pulling at the foam? You are supposed to remove by holding and removing from velcro.

  9. #21
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    Quote: Originally Posted by Rolla
    When removing did u remove the pad by pulling at the foam? You are supposed to remove by holding and removing from velcro.
    the velco on all but my cutting pad is actually not recessed but raised up if you will, and is the exactly same size as my backing plate. to remove, i would kind of get a finger nail between the plate and the velco and then peel back via the velco

  10. #22
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    Norcal, the pad you have is the LC orange DA pad, which has the elevated velcro...a stupid design IMO. I've had several of them fail at the edges...not velcro coming off, but the edges of the velcro/foam coming apart. This will always happen if you use it at 6. It causes too much flexing at the stepped joint, the velcro cuts into the foam, and the foam fails...as I said, stupid design with no benefits. I've had to re-glue the edges and re-inforce it with extra glue to prevent it happening again. I also got LC to replace the damaged pads.



    LC have remedied that with their recent pads by making the velcro area wider, so it extends way beyond the b/p, but I still don't know why they've stuck with the elevated design.

    I've always forced my finger between the velcro and b/p before pulling the pad off to prevent what's happened to you...it will always be a weak point.
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  11. #23
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    I haven't ever run the machine off of 6.

    My pads have lasted me a bout 20-23 cars, but they're in ROUGH shape right now.
    Carvista Inc. - Asper School of Business

  12. #24
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    Quote: Originally Posted by Alfisti
    Norcal, the pad you have is the LC orange DA pad, which has the elevated velcro...a stupid design IMO. I've had several of them fail at the edges...not velcro coming off, but the edges of the velcro/foam coming apart. This will always happen if you use it at 6. It causes too much flexing at the stepped joint, the velcro cuts into the foam, and the foam fails...as I said, stupid design with no benefits. I've had to re-glue the edges and re-inforce it with extra glue to prevent it happening again. I also got LC to replace the damaged pads.



    LC have remedied that with their recent pads by making the velcro area wider, so it extends way beyond the b/p, but I still don't know why they've stuck with the elevated design.

    I've always forced my finger between the velcro and b/p before pulling the pad off to prevent what's happened to you...it will always be a weak point.
    this is exactly it, the same goes for the white polishing pad. The yellow cutting pad has a flat, full surface hook and loop back, and the grey finishing pad i have not used enough or at high enough speed to damage. Did the gluing work to reinforce it? I think I may try it.

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