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Thread: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

  1. #157
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    I assumed you were joking too!


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  2. #158

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    RaskyR1- Heh heh, nah..I was serious! I really do fog the surface when I buff off my LSPs. Maybe it has something to do with how I find even KSG sooo easy to buff off
    The most interesting man in all of Autopia Land. (<--I didn't enter that!)

  3. #159

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Quote: Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    RaskyR1- Heh heh, nah..I was serious! I really do fog the surface when I buff off my LSPs. Maybe it has something to do with how I find even KSG sooo easy to buff off
    LOL...I think if my wife walked in the garage and saw me doing that she'd leave me!

    What do you feel it adds?

  4. #160

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Quote: Originally Posted by RaskyR1 View Post
    LOL...I think if my wife walked in the garage and saw me doing that she'd leave me!

    What do you feel it adds?
    Heh heh, I bet Accumulatorette wouldn't find that in the top ten of odd stuff she's seen me do!

    The little bit of moisture from the condensation seems to do a few things:

    -Helps you see the LSP when you've applied it *really* thin
    -Provides a little lubrication to make the buffing towel glide better
    -Gives a tiny bit of...uhm...spit-shine-like effect, probably helping minimize streaking/etc. which I basically never experience

    No, never experienced any downsides from that bit of moisture.

    I really do think it's beneficial; every time somebody says how KSG/FK1000P/476S/[whatever] is a little hard to buff off I wonder what they're talking about as I've never experienced that even with goofy-thick applications allowed to dry for a long time.
    The most interesting man in all of Autopia Land. (<--I didn't enter that!)

  5. #161

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Don't chew gum, while brushing the carpet, with an open mouth. LOL
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  6. #162

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Coffee filters make great, cheap, lint free wipes and they work fantastically on glass and mirrors. They only cost a couple of bucks for a hundred or more, so its easy to keep them in the shop. I've also used a coffee filter and an iron on low heat to remove melted crayon from interior carpet and upholstery. Just place the filter over the waxy mess then run a low heat iron over it. The filter should wick up most of the waxy crayon.

  7. #163

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Mr. Clean Magic Erasers work for getting wax or polish residue off of textured black plastic.

    Of course, taping the trim makes it not get on it at all.

  8. #164

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Just went through the whole thread, some great tips thanks guys!

    Just wanted to mention that IMO when at the "2 bucket wash" part of your wash you should wash the car form the top down. So start with the roof, front and rear windshield (rinse), then rear trunk/hatch down to top of bumper and all side windows (rinse), then hood and front fenders (rinse), now the doors and rear quarter panels (rinse and repeat for the other side), now the rear bumper (rinse), and finally do the front bumper. IMO the front bumper is where the most dirt and contaminates will be and I wouldn't want it done first because you are more likely to carry the particles along for the rest of the wash causing scratches.

    Note: 9/10 times I am washing coupes (my own coupe or customers) sedans may need more rinses down between panels........just a judgment call I guess

  9. #165

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    When cleaning/conditioning - Never use a stiff bristle brush on a fabric convertible top. It will tear the fibers.
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  10. #166

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Don't know if its been mentioned or not yet, but when doing glass if its particularly full of crap and water spots that won't come off with glass cleaner I use megs plastx and polish with a MF towel until its pretty much dry then buff off with a clean mf towel. Great finish with no streaks or water spots. Only on the outside though. I'm sure it will scratch the heck out of tint.

  11. #167

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    clay bar on glass works wonders to for those stubborn water spots......

  12. #168

    Re: the 'little tricks you've learned' thread

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    Quote: Originally Posted by LMBmikeZ View Post
    Just went through the whole thread, some great tips thanks guys!

    Just wanted to mention that IMO when at the "2 bucket wash" part of your wash you should wash the car form the top down. So start with the roof, front and rear windshield (rinse), then rear trunk/hatch down to top of bumper and all side windows (rinse), then hood and front fenders (rinse), now the doors and rear quarter panels (rinse and repeat for the other side), now the rear bumper (rinse), and finally do the front bumper. IMO the front bumper is where the most dirt and contaminates will be and I wouldn't want it done first because you are more likely to carry the particles along for the rest of the wash causing scratches.

    Note: 9/10 times I am washing coupes (my own coupe or customers) sedans may need more rinses down between panels........just a judgment call I guess
    That's the order i follow as well.
    Upper doors before hood though.
    3 mitts, for different lattitudes of the car.
    I always get the old "rinse water bucket becomes as soapy as the soap bucket" though.
    I'm thinking of going back to using my second bucket as replacement soapwater for when the first needs changed, instead of the trad. two bucket way.


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