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05-11-02, 10:05
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#25 (permalink)
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Registered User
jrh382 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Basking Ridge, NJ
Posts: 168
Contact:
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My tip is either take the time and do it right, or don't do it at all!
Better leaving a car dirty then it is to do it half assed, such as washing it with a hose, then driving away. Or wiping the dirt off with no water or just water!
I know you all know this, but I can't tell you how many people in my neck of the woods do this! Only 1 person on my entire block besides myself washes his car. 
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05-12-02, 08:23
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#26 (permalink)
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Registered User
James A is offline
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 236
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Never detial in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivits, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.
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05-12-02, 08:04
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#27 (permalink)
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Resident Ford Man!
Intel486 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Red Stick/Nawlins
Posts: 2,964
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Re: Re: Re: clean engine
Quote:
Originally posted by medic
depending on how dirty the engine bay is, you may not get it clean the first time without scrubbing. by doing this over the course of a week, you can get the same results, but not have to put in as much labor into it.
after the first pass on my engine that wasn't cleaned for several college years, it was about 75% cleaner. over the course of the week is was about 90-95% clean. as I sprayed with water, clumps of the grease and drit that were on the engine just washed off. It was pretty nasty to see but satisfying.
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Well lets look at it this way.
10mins a day for a week. Lets just cut it back to a 5 day week. That is 50mins of work.
In 50 minutes I would be able to spray the engine down, scrub everything lightly with a nylon brush, let soak for around 7mins, hose out throughly, dry with towel, dry some more by running engine, and then dress everything with a waterbased dressing.
Better to get it all out of the way at once than have to mess around with it every day.
Quote:
Originally posted by Volvo4Me
~ When doing a complete interior/exterior detail - do the interior first as you are usually too tired/hot/sweaty/dirty when you are finished with the exterior
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Best tip I've seen so far. Took me four complete details to realize this! I also hate doing interiors so after doing my favorite part, buffing of the paint, I'm not really motivated to do the interior and have to force myself to pull out the vac.
Quote:
Originally posted by James A
Never detial in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivits, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.
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Also, if you are gonna be using a buffer, orbital or rotary, then wear old clothing. Even with an apron on I still seem to get buffing compound or wax on my shirt. GRRRRR
__________________
2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L
Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.
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05-13-02, 08:16
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#28 (permalink)
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Trainee
v85097 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Boston
Posts: 256
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A quick disconnect coupling threaded on to the end of the hose makes it quick and easy to sheet the water over the car after washing. Applying AIO/SG on the wheels while they are off of the car allows you to clean them once they are back on using just your usual car shampoo instead of a wheel cleaner although this might depend on your wheel cleaning frequency as to how good it works. Using 5 gln bucket dollies makes it easier to move two buckets around during a wash.
__________________
wallie
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05-13-02, 01:25
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#29 (permalink)
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Registered User
medic is offline
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Arizona
Posts: 516
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Re: Re: Re: Re: clean engine
Quote:
Originally posted by Intel486
Well lets look at it this way.
10mins a day for a week. Lets just cut it back to a 5 day week. That is 50mins of work.
In 50 minutes I would be able to spray the engine down, scrub everything lightly with a nylon brush, let soak for around 7mins, hose out throughly, dry with towel, dry some more by running engine, and then dress everything with a waterbased dressing.
Better to get it all out of the way at once than have to mess around with it every day.
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Agreed, if you've got the time. This was a tip to get the engine clean over a spread out time instead of all at once. You could even do this over weeks to get the same result since dirt and grime doesn't build up in an engine bay too quickly. Or, you can do this process while waiting 20 minutes for the SG to set before buffing off. You have to reapply the SG the next day anyway, so just think of it as a joint process.
Really, it's just personal preference 
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05-13-02, 07:11
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#30 (permalink)
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Resident Ford Man!
Intel486 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Red Stick/Nawlins
Posts: 2,964
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: clean engine
Quote:
Originally posted by medic
Agreed, if you've got the time. This was a tip to get the engine clean over a spread out time instead of all at once. You could even do this over weeks to get the same result since dirt and grime doesn't build up in an engine bay too quickly. Or, you can do this process while waiting 20 minutes for the SG to set before buffing off. You have to reapply the SG the next day anyway, so just think of it as a joint process.
Really, it's just personal preference
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think I finally get your point now. Good tip 
__________________
2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L
Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.
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05-14-02, 06:27
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#31 (permalink)
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Registered User
Bumpers Plus is offline
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: western NC
Posts: 356
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I do the interior first also, so that it can be drying before the customer picks it up, I try not to get it too wet anyways.
I use the air compressor first, to blow out all the vents, in between the seats, the seams in the seats, the rear tray around tthe third brake light etc.
Then, I take a bottle of water with a little multipurpose cleaner in it, and spray the vents, ashtrays, gauges, shifter boot, etc. and agitate with a round paint brush, and use the air to blow everything clean.
You can use the vehicles heater, to dry interior.
I take the nozzle off a wd 40 can, and the little red extension, and put it on cans of paint for the fenderwells, you can really shoot the paint where you want it with less overspray.
I cover engines electrical parts with foil, spray cleaner, start engine, and let it dwell for about 5 minutes, leave engine running, and pressure wash everything clean. Its easier to keep a engine running, than it is to start one that has gotten the electrical parts soaked!
These tricks work for me, and help speed up the detail.
Oh yeah, get a portable jumper, dead batteries are a pain, and if you dont have another vehicle to use to jump, your stuck.

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05-15-02, 06:39
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#32 (permalink)
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Inactive
CharlesW is offline
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 969
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For rinsing, I use a shut-off valve and a short section of old hose.
The valve lets you control the flow for sheeting, and the cut off hose has no metal or hard plastic parts to damage anything.
A 4' piece of 3/4" pvc, a 90 degree street el with a cap you drill 3- 3/16" holes in, works great for spraying wheel wells, (instead of your face), and you can rinse lots of muck off the bottom of the car as well.
Charles
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05-17-02, 05:23
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#33 (permalink)
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Registered User
ShineMGood is offline
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Zoo Jersey
Posts: 278
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Interior
For cleaning the interior I have several different size chip brushes cut to varying lengths using serated utility scissors. The length controls the stiffness. I use them to clean all areas and scrub panels and seats without overspray in tight areas and flicking from larger brushes. Spray the cleaner directly on the brush and it will stay there until applied to the panel you are cleaning.
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05-17-02, 06:14
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#34 (permalink)
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Registered User
rd_volvo is offline
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 541
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Dual Redundant Hosing..
For those who have a relatively short distance from their
water spigot to their car you may like this.
I found going back and forth around my car was a royal
PIA so I decided to try dual hosing. One hose for each side
of my car. I just got a Y-coupler[splitter at water spiget]
and incorporated some quick disconnect couplers for speed.
Also, i'm sure some of you like myself have whipped the hose
into your paintwerk causing a Ohh-Nooo. It only takes a few
seconds for the extra hose. Well worth it.
I'll try a schematic.
------------------{}
/ hose # 1
/ ___________
/ | |
WS [ ] | CAR |
\ |___________|
\
\ hose # 2
------------------{}
Ah Shucks! The post broke it up. I hope you get the idea though.
__________________
As Soon As I saw That Guys Cars Dirty I Knew He Was Going To Be A Failure! Donald Trump - The Apprentice
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05-17-02, 06:53
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#35 (permalink)
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Resident Ford Man!
Intel486 is offline
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Red Stick/Nawlins
Posts: 2,964
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Re: Dual Redundant Hosing..
Quote:
Originally posted by rd_volvo
For those who have a relatively short distance from their
water spigot to their car you may like this.
I found going back and forth around my car was a royal
PIA so I decided to try dual hosing. One hose for each side
of my car. I just got a Y-coupler[splitter at water spiget]
and incorporated some quick disconnect couplers for speed.
Also, i'm sure some of you like myself have whipped the hose
into your paintwerk causing a Ohh-Nooo. It only takes a few
seconds for the extra hose. Well worth it.
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Hrmm... are we autopians getting lazy? J/k'ing good idea. Now since I've got two hoses I might have to do this.
Did you notice any decrease in water pressure having two hoses?
__________________
2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L
Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.
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05-19-02, 07:10
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#36 (permalink)
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ON A MISSION
X-MAN is offline
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Nashville
Posts: 152
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Mist the vehicle with distilled H2/0 and wipe with a MF after polish/waxing. It will help "set" the product. Oh yeah,....don't run out of beer before you reach this final step! 
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SUPERCHARGED + INTERCOOLED
HAPPINESS IS BEING BLOWN!
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