Just to add to the conversation, M16 was introduced in 1951, it was
Meguiar's first automotive wax on the market.
It's referred to as a heavy wax and should only be applied using very thin coats. If you apply it too thick it will break your arm off trying to remove it and you'll likely instill scratches into the paint a the same time.
I used this for 10 years as my LSP of choice when I detailed full time.
For Newbies using M16, do yourself a favor and when you go to apply it for th first time only apply it to about a one foot squared section on your hood or trunk lid. Let it completely dry before removing it. Then carefully remove it using your best microfiber and using the Pac Man method of removing wax.
Then see how you like it before applying it to the entire car. I'm serious in that if you apply a thick coat and then let the coating completely dry and harden, it will be a bear to remove.
Here's a few things I've written on it from MOL
How To Break-in a New Can of M16
Often times the wax in a brand new can of M16 will have an irregular surface. Because you're not supposed to scoop this wax out of the can but instead spin your wax applicator against the surface of the wax in the can you need a flat surface. So the first thing you do when you open a brand new can of M16 is to "Break-in the can of wax".
To do this, take your clean wax applicator pad and basically push/smoosh any high points down and then use the applicator pad to smooth out the top surface of the wax by agitating/spinning your applicator against it until it's flat.
Note the uplifted and irregular surface of the wax which is normal.
Smash down any high points and then smooth out the surface till it's as flat as you can get it.
Now your can of wax is ready to use!
When you go to remove wax from the can, spin your applicator on the top surface focusing on the outer edges while at the same time spinning or rotating the can with your other hand.
Spinning your applicator against the hard wax will liquefy it enough to allow some wax to seep into your applicator pad.
Spinning or rotating the can at the same time with your other hand will enable you to take the wax down evenly across the surface instead of removing more wax out of the center producing a cone-shape in the center. The better you can keep the surface flat the easier it will be to remove the wax out of the can over time until you get towards the bottom of the can.
And this one,
The Secret Slot - How to open a can of M16
The lid for
Meguiar's M1611 Professional Paste wax, as well as all the lids for all
Meguiar's' paste waxes in our paste wax
tin cans, has a slot built into it to help you remove the lid.
Most old timers know of the
Quarter Trick but just as many people use Flathead Screwdriver. Often times you'll find you have a Quarter in your pocket but you don't always have a Flathead Screwdriver in your pocket.
Below are some pictures that show the slot in the lid and how to use a Quarter to open a can of M16 by sticking the Quarter into the slot and then twisting the Quarter like you twist a set of car keys when you start a car.
Again, this works with all
Meguiar's paste wax cans that look like this can of M1611
Last time I used it I topped this car with M16 as I wanted to wax the antique paint with a wax that would be considered period correct for this vintage of a car. I used about $30.00 of OTC products and a lot of perspiration and passion behind the pad and it paid off very handsomely for one days work.
This is the most I've ever made for hand-rubbing out a finish.
It looks good in this picture but when pulled out into the sun you could see the entire finish was filled with swirls and had a lifeless hazy look to it.
Major swirls throughout the entire finish
Before and After
After shots - Lots of real-estate but it was a fun project!
You can expect to see some pigment transfer off onto your applicator pads. I used terry cloth applicator pads until I got to the waxing steps then I switched over to foam.
$700.00 for the work and a $100.00 tip, not bad for a Saturday
I'm currently looking for classic cars in the South Florida area for an extreme makeover project, they don't have to be this old but they do have to have single stage paint. Call or e-mail if you have a candidate. There won't be a charge if your car is selected as it will be used for training purposes.
p.s.
I have pictures of the car completely covered with a thin coat of M16 drying, had this been a thick coat of wax it would have killed me to wipe it off after previously rugging the paint out with 3 other products and with the paint cleaner really putting some passion behind the pad.
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