Lighting questions NOT covered in previous threads

[wifehatescar]

I search for about 1 hour but could not find these answers in any previous thread, bear with me if I just missed the answers somehow.

For garage flourescent lighting,

1. Do I want a cool or warm light? I think I want something at least 4000k/80 CRI?
Even better, is there a particular brand or part number you purchased that you are very happy with. What temp/CRI is it and where did you get it?

2. I know I want an electronic ballast. Do some hum still or are ALL electronic ones silent?

3. I am painting the drywall white to reflect light better than the bare drywall does. Do I want the High Gloss or is semi gloss better (or maybe satin)? Is one easier to clean than the other? Also, do I need to prime? The HD guy last night I talked to was recommending some real nice (but pricy-$22/gal) Behr drywall primer and Behr High Gloss paint. Do I need to go with that kind of quality?

Thanks. Just trying to make informed purchases.
Steve

[TOGWT]

Quote: Lighting questions NOT covered in previous threads


~One man’s opinion / observations~
This is what my company spec for lighting etc.

Walls: Interior Acrylic enamels with a low lustre sheen (Reflects well but not blinding) and provides a very durable/ washable surface finish over a good quality primer.
Acrylic Enamel (Griot’s 90081)
Primer (90092)

Floors: Fill in any cracks and remove old paint etc, etch concrete surface with muritic acid before applying two (2) coats minimum
Paint stripper (90028)
Floor Paint (-0011)

Wall Base Moulding: To seal the floor/wall and provide a practical waterproof finish (apply to wall with tape (Tape 1 ½” x 160’ rolls, 92455)
Wall Base (92455)

Lighting: 100-foot candles at workbench height (42” from finished floor) recommend metal halide lights over each detailing bay plus incandescent lighting on separate switch as HID have a delayed start.

I’ve recommended Griot’s Garage materials because I get a huge commission (seriously I thought you’d be more familiar with a car products supplier)

~Hope this helps~


Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

[Joe K -- 01 Green]

www.lumiram.com all natural light products

no connection to me

[wifehatescar]

Thanks for the links guys, I was really hoping to get all my stuff at the local blue or orange sign stores though to save some time and money.

[elortt]

Steve,

Cool lighting will provide a more "white light" whereas warm lighting is more off white, a VERY Cool tone is even whiter. 4100k CW (Cool white). if you go with GE they have an sp41 and SPX41 - the x41 is even clearer (vibrant). I would go with satin but use BEhr because their satin cleans up easier than glidden or anyone else. If you want to save money you may want to go with semi-gloss in another brand for cleaning puposes.

Hope this helps

Eric

[wifehatescar]

Thanks Eric. Does "satin" refer to the same thing as "semi-gloss" as far as paint properties?
All I know is gloss levels: H/G, semigloss, flat. Where/how does "satin" fit in?

[elortt]

Actually there are more than those. You have flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, gloss. Satin is about the lowest you would go with a quality paint if you are worried about cleaning it and its moisture resistance. But like I said, IMO if you use the Behr brand satin you will get better coverage and a lower reflectivity and still retain the cleaning ability. Flat paint is near impossible to clean without removing some paint. If you use a cheaper paint in the end you will spend more because it will not cover as well and I would step up to semi-gloss to retain it's cleaning ability. JMO

Eric

[Vincent Vega]

I will agree with Eric on paint. Cheap paint is "cheap". Poor coverage is my main complaint. Quality paint covers much better and is generally easier to apply flow wise. Oops I thought this was the paint thread. Nevermind.........