Warning on epoxy floors - Page 2

audicoupej · 03-26-07, 10:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by qadsan

If you want the really good stuff (epoxy), then look for a two component self leveling 100% solids non-blushing cycloaliphatic amine cured phenol novolac epoxy.

What?

I got a headache just trying to read that sentence!

Dang, you really know your epoxy floors! Great advice.

01bluecls · 03-26-07, 10:16

LOL Holy Epoxy Floor Jargon Batman! Now I know how the newbies feel when they come to autopia for detailing info hahahah

bfourney · 03-27-07, 02:12

Looks like we have to add another acronym to the decoder ring: 2CSL100SNBCACPNVE

Quote:

Originally Posted by gadsan

If you want the really good stuff (epoxy), then look for a two component self leveling 100% solids non-blushing cycloaliphatic amine cured phenol novolac epoxy.

DSMu4ia · 03-29-07, 10:40

I've had one spot in 2 years peel up, and it was a combination of where a hot set of bald Z-rated tires would come in and rest, and where I had assumed I had prepped an old oil spill good enough before laying down the epoxy.

If one or the other wasn't present, I don't think I'd be seeing any issues.

Hell I even had a battery explode and battery acid was sitting on the floor for several weeks and all it did was "corrode" the paint finish. That spot still hasn't peeled up.

I am planning on redoing the surface with a fresh top coat of epoxy and some of the clear coat that Rustoleum offers now.

Speed6 Guy · 03-30-07, 07:06

I used it in Minnesota and it looks like poop less then a year later. Worst $140 i've ever spent.

61iwon · 04-05-07, 02:51

I see many complaints about the paint peeling from the floor of peoples garages. I think the main reason that happens is the moisture coming through the concrete. I think the only sure way to prevent this is to lay down a moisture barrier under the concrete before it is poured.

There are probably some that know some other reasons or hopefully cures. But that is what I have read about most areas. If you live in a dry climate that doesnt have much moisture or freeze thaw cycles, then you will be better off, I think.

Best of luck to those that want to seal their floors, I hope it works. I bought one of the vinyl mats.

Dave

yello355 · 04-18-07, 10:59

So far i have had no problems with my epoxy floor after 7 years of crappy Michigan weather . I had it professionally installed in the garage that is 25 years old . So far so good !

QuentinJS · 05-23-07, 11:28

The prep people are talking about is that if your floor seeps moisture then the epoxy will lift, no matter what you do for acid wash or shot blasting or type of epoxy you use.

I've not used a sealer as of yet, so I have nothing to add other then if they work, then I would recommend ALWAYS sealing the concrete as the first step before the epoxy. This would remove a huge unknown from the equation.

HTH
Quentin
TotalGarage

QuentinJS · 05-23-07, 11:32

As an alternative to epoxies, if you are looking for a coating that has a solid warranty, then look for a company in your neighbourhood that applies "Flexmar" it comes with a 15 year warranty on peeling, flaking and chipping. Its an amazing product... now it does cost a pile more then epoxy... but 15 years is a lot of peace of mind.

Cheers,
Quentin
TotalGarage.ca

tlester · 07-20-07, 07:46

If it's pulling up, then something went wrong in the install. Did you etch your concrete with muratic acid first? That puts pores in the surface of the concreate for the expoxy to bond to. It also has to be BONE dry.

Mine is over 4 years old now, and I can drag a heavy piece of steel across it and it doesn't damage. The cars don't effect it at all. My father-in-laws (who helped me put mine down and is an industrial coatings specialist) has had his down for almost 20 years and after mopping looks like the day it went down.

I'd grind it off and try it again. Don't use really cheap stuff, though. In situations where it'll need to last a long time, splurge for the good stuff. The rust-oleum stuff is what my father in law and I used. It's under $200.

-Tom

Setec Astronomy · 07-20-07, 07:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by qadsan

There are water-based sealers that are proven to work well. You want one that says it reacts with hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) and alkali. A product like this will penetrate into the concrete filling the voids and bonding all the particles into a solid mass. The sealer basically becomes a permanent part of the concrete and forms a permanent moisture barrier/seal.

Any brand names, product names, links?

Stonecipher · 07-22-07, 08:31

None of my previous posts are showing up, lets try again:

The Garage Journal has a section regarding flooring finishes like epoxy, etc. Very much worth the read if you are thinking of doing your garage floors.

Stonecipher

Well, what do you know, this one showed up!