Epoxy paint or colored concrete for garage floor?

Dean · 11-29-03, 08:10

Plans for our custom built home are finalizing. The garage space is about 1800 square feet and should fit 6 cars.

My question concerns the garage floor finish. Should I have the floor epoxy finished by a professional painter, or....

Should I have the concrete colored when it's poured down during construction? Then it can have a clear epoxy sealant.

I think the advantage of colored concrete is that the color goes all the way thru, and cannot be chipped away. I hope that the colored concrete can be tinted to a very light grey.

Any opinions or experience? Thanks.

(By the way, the floor won't be colored dark brown, like my computer-generated plan shows.)

Dean

Jimmy Buffit · 11-30-03, 12:46

The 2 coats of PPG Aquapon 35 on my shop floor (higher traffic than your garage, to be sure!) have not impressed me. No adhesion problems, but the finish is duller every day, and doesn't return after cleaning.

Additionally, we used the sand additive, in correct proportion. Way too gritty! Almost impossible to clean with conventional methods.

I'm not sure the clear would be an improvement...

Or, have you looked at the Racedeck products? A little pricey for me, but it has a great reputation. Maybe for your higher traffic areas, over the tinted clear combo?

Keep us updated...

Jim

BTW, did you see the floor in !!!
Ultgar's garage photo

HellrotCi · 11-30-03, 05:00

Depending on where you live there should be companies that specialize in faux concrete finishing. I've seen some portfolios of companies in my area and the finishes looked

Here's an example.

Dean · 11-30-03, 05:41

Thanks for all the repies.

Ultgar, I really didn't think about the potential oil soaking problem with unpainted, colored concrete.

Maybe the best solution would be colored concrete with a clear epoxy coating.

HellrotCi,

I've seen some fauz-finished concrete at a local home show. It looks fantastic, but I think it's pretty expensive. I'm checking into it.

Dean

wifehatescar · 12-01-03, 07:12

Quote:

Originally posted by jimamary

BTW, did you see the floor in !!!
Ultgar's garage photo

umm, ok, what is on the floor of this garage??? looks like ceramic tile?

kgb · 12-01-03, 08:30

Colored floor will last longer but paint will be easy to clean. I say you do colored concrete and put a few coats of concrete sealer on it every year and you will be fine.

Accumulator · 12-01-03, 10:57

The tiles posted by ultgar look good! I've often thought I should've just gone with a (non slip, textured) tile instead of the epoxy-stone mix I DID get.

Dean- One garage at our place has sealed concrete, and yeah, oil soak-in can be a problem. The other has the epoxy-stone mix (not gonna mention the brand name due to, uhm, "ISSUES" I had with the firm), and our subbasement has epoxy garage floor paint with sand.

I would NOT recommend the paint, just too many issues (adhesion, wear, fading, slippery without enough sand, hassles WITH enough sand, touch-up hassles, the list is endless).

The epoxy-stone mix is working OK (*THIS* time, grrr, LONG and terrible story there!), but the sand in IT (used to make it non slip) is gradually wearing away and I REALLY don't look forward to having that redone (big mess, with a LOT of abrasive dust floating around). This wear might not be a problem if you DON'T have steel-wheeled jacks, etc., but for me it's gonna eventually have to be dealt with. Even where it's not worn, the floor can be a LOT slicker than I expected and you really do have to be careful. *IF* you go with something like this, be VERY careful who you have do it. Learn about the product/application process, and WATCH the installers like a hawk! Yes, you might really have to tell them how to do their jobs.

Regular concrete floors sometimes have issues with "dusting", and again, abrasive dust is NOT what you want floating around. So some kind of sealing, etc. IS a good idea. Watch you don't make it slippery when wet, though.

Since it looks like you're doing a NICE home and garage, I'd seriously consider using tile. I think you'll still be happy with it years after you've forgotten what it cost. Just make sure it won't be too slick when it's wet and that you choose something that will withstand whatever you plan to do on it (think "sharp corners of jackstands", for instance).

FWIW, *I* prefer a "trench"-style floor drain for my main wash area. The type of drain you use might make a difference in how you do your floor.

Good luck with your new home (hope you don't need it!).

Dean · 12-01-03, 11:28

ultgar,

Wow! That tile looks awaesome, but for the 4 car section of my garage, it'll cost $12,000.00 for the tile alone!

Accumulator,

Thanks for the solid advice. You're right. Paint wear will always be an issue, despite what Richard Griot may say about his version of garage floor epoxy paint.

I'm contemplating a less expensive tile solution for the 4 car garage segment, and perhaps a sealed and colored concrete for the 2 car section.

Dean

Dean · 12-01-03, 01:38

Well, thanks to my Autopia friends, I think I may have found my solution.

It really looks like tile is the way to go. Every concrete paint finish, including epoxy, is doomed to fail. Apparently the hydrostatic force of moisture from the ground to the concrete surface will eventually cause lifting of any floor paint.

Here's the link to the garage tile solution:

http://garage-tile.com/middle.htm

Accumulator · 12-02-03, 07:26

Dean-

to you for finding the right solution for your garage! BTW, the garage floor paint that's proving unsatisfactory in my subbasement IS Griot's. Professionally applied after proper prep, too.

bet993 · 12-02-03, 11:09

Accumulator,

I am just curious, how long has your paint been down and how is it failing (peeling and lifting I assume)?

Accumulator · 12-03-03, 06:10

Quote:

Originally posted by bet993
Accumulator,

I am just curious, how long has your paint been down and how is it failing (peeling and lifting I assume)?

It's been down no more than four years. It's lifted in a few spots even though that area does NOT get what *I* would consider "abusive treatment". It's also scuffed and stained in a few spots. I don't intend to overstate how bad it is, but it really should've held up better. Had I used it in my "working"/detailing garage, I believe it would be a hideous mess. And even with the sand in it, it can be VERY slick when wet.

But FWIW, Chuck Mallett put it down in his shop (he's a 'vette tuner) and it's held up very well. Still, the pro who did mine was VERY careful to give me a good job (he and I go way back).