What oil do you use and why? - Page 4

Setec Astronomy · 03-28-08, 06:04

Hey, I've got 20 years of M1 use under my belt, too. I just don't trust any big-company CEO's anymore, and last night I was looking at the M1 website data sheets and they use a different low-temp number (MRV at -40°F vs. pour point) for the 0W oils and the 5W/10W so you can't compare them anymore...hmm. I did a spreadsheet last October, and the 0W-30 had a much lower pour point than the 5W-30 (which would make sense except for what I was told years ago that the 0W was really the 5W run through the 0W test), and the 0W was recommended for extended drain, while the 5W was not. They've updated the 0W data sheet now and I don't see anything about extended drain.

There's a certain logic in believing that the the 0W's have a higher PAO content...from this spreadsheet data, as well as the Wal-Mart pricing...not to mention my MBA-CEO conspiracy theories which would just about mandate changing M1 to a Grp. III without lowering the price and keeping the change as a bonus!

rjstaaf · 03-28-08, 06:40

I have been a BITOG member for years and the similarities between discussions of oil and discussions here of wax generally go pretty much the same way. My point is that I trust my years of used oil analysis on Mobil 1 to tell me that it is performing as advertised vs speculation that Mobil is lying about the contents of its oil. My latest UOA was on Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 at 7500 miles. I still had a TBN of 3.0 which in my experience tells me I could have easily gotten to 10K without any troubles and adequate anti-wear additives left over. Fact is though I don't trust the oil filter to go that long which is the only reason I generally change at 7500.

I will be doing another UOA next month on the oil currently in the Mustang which is Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30 (unfortunately discontinued). I will post my results then if you are interested...

Fact is if you are doing 3K-5K oil changes ALL of this discussion isn't worth @#$@# because any cheap conventional oil WalMart happens to have on sale will go to 5K easily.

I have to run, gotta pick up my new Crack... oops I mean Blackberry from Sprint and get my son's paintball tanks filled. Be back later....

Bob

mshu7 · 03-28-08, 06:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstaaf

Fact is if you are doing 3K-5K oil changes ALL of this discussion isn't worth @#$@# because any cheap conventional oil WalMart happens to have on sale will go to 5K easily.

Bob

I couldn't agree more Bob. I see people that still swear by the 3K mile oil changes. Hell, some people change it even earlier. With today's oils, I can't imagine doing anything less than 5K mile intervals.

Setec Astronomy · 03-28-08, 07:03

Yeah, I really don't get too wound up about the M1 because I'm doing regular changes and I don't put so many miles on my cars that using a more expensive oil is an economic burden...it's just the principle of the thing!

Tiauguinho · 03-28-08, 08:29

Redline oil all the way!

silvsrt4 · 03-28-08, 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonP

I use Purple motor oil because I like the cool purple color bottles they come in.

Actually I felt a slight power improvement and better MPG from the OEM oil when switched to full synthetic.

Not sure if you were joking or not but I, too, use Royal Purple (10w30 in the winter, 10w40 in the summer) and definately noticed a slight power improvement throughout the powerband, and an increase in fuel economy, as well as longevity of the oil between changes.

To the OP: When you do your change, you could pick up a magnetized drain plug and gasket; prolongs the life of the oil filter and extra insurance against small metal particles getting where they should not be.

And also to add, the last duration of RP lasted me 8k miles, and the oil had barely turned brown, and be sure to note that this is on a turbocharged car (excessive heat).

BAKER · 03-28-08, 09:05

Castrol synthetic, done by the dealer because its free of charge.

itb76 · 03-28-08, 09:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstaaf

Fact is if you are doing 3K-5K oil changes ALL of this discussion isn't worth @#$@# because any cheap conventional oil WalMart happens to have on sale will go to 5K easily.

I'm not convinced this is true. I'd been using Mobil 1 products for years, with excellent results. My old Pathfinder had 215K on it when I traded it, and was clean as a whistle inside. Compression, power and economy were the same as the day I got it (at 68K). Both my current cars have over 174K on them, and I've used M1 exclusively with 10K oil change intervals until recently. Both engines are varnished up inside. I broke a timing chain at 164K in my VW. That's what got me looking at BITOG. I did an Auto-RX treatment using Rotella T 5W40, but now I'm experimenting with different oils and sending samples to Blackstone. The more I read BITOG the more confused I get; it's information overload I'm afraid.

I think the engines in my garage today are harder on oil than what I'd owned in the past. Some of the new direct injection engines are much tougher still. My VW sees 6000 rpm every day. It will take a lot of oil analysis before I'm comfortable exceeding 5K OCI with a synthetic.

reaper34 · 03-28-08, 10:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiauguinho

Redline oil all the way!

from everything I've read and heard redline is t*t's all-around.

reaper34 · 03-28-08, 10:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by itb76

I did an Auto-RX treatment using Rotella T 5W40

do you like the rotella? thats what I'll be switching to.

Yal · 03-28-08, 12:23

^^Love Rotella T 5W40, that and Penzoil Platinum are my go too's for my two cars.

reaper34 · 03-28-08, 12:32

the consensus on the jeep forums is it pretty much the best for the 4.0 so I have high hopes. I was just looking around on the shell forums and it seems they have a new version out but the only thing changed is it no longer carries an sj rating and not for use with 07' up diesel's because it has more zinc and phosphorous than the new certification allows. which is still great for the jeep