http://www.autopia.org/forum Share your tips, tools and stories with other Pro Detailers. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:52:37 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia_style/misc/rss.jpg http://www.autopia.org/forum http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125403-advertising-here.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:26:26 GMT i own a detailing business and i was wondering what the policies are on advertising on here. thanks Trevor i own a detailing business and i was wondering what the policies are on advertising on here.

thanks
Trevor ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion jaidedeye http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125403-advertising-here.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125393-what-happened-frank-canna.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:24:38 GMT What happened to Frank Canna? I used to enjoy his click and brags but haven't seen him here in a while? Anyone know what happened? ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion jeteast99 http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125393-what-happened-frank-canna.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125373-winter-months.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:12:41 GMT I'm a transplant from LA, now in Cleveland, Ohio. I've made the business work for me quite well in the past now that I'm in region affected by seasons(there is only spring and summer in LA) I don't quite how to handle the winter season.

Some thoughts:

• interior details
• interior cleaning i.e. vaccuum, windows etc
• under carriage sprays
• washes/waxes on warm days
• take up a hobby

]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion seles23 http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125373-winter-months.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125371-steamer-hose-made-heavy-duty.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:38:38 GMT I’ve picked up a steamer for dang cheap and have been looking for one for a VERY long time. I got the VX5000 steamer. I have seen steamers with a web sheathing covering the hose, used to resist abrasions and help it slide easier over the interiors as the hose is coiled and catches. I tried to buy the materials from the guy that makes these sheathings but no go, I understand as he is in it for the $$$ and all the time it took to work out the issues. However, I have the time and patience to research this on my own, it took about 10 hours. The materials cost about 40$ to get, much cheaper than replacement of the hose!! I have all the info on what materials, sizes, lengths, amounts, etc. You can email me and I’ll get you the list and contacts. If you are so inclined, any product trades for this info would be welcomed…. SORRY THE PICS ARE POOR, INDOOR LIGHTING. The steamer hose that needs to be built to heavy duty standards. Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing004.jpg Here is the webbing used, its expandable and using the correct diameter is the trick. Too small and it wont fit over the ends, too big and the hose moves too much in the web. Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing002.jpg Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing003.jpg You need to pull the webbing over the hose. Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing006.jpg Slip the plastic shrink wrap over the webbing, getting the correct size and shrink ratio is critical. The hose on this is close to 1” diam, but the ends are closer to 2.25” diam. Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing007.jpg Get the pieces aligned. Once its starts shrinking its very hard to reposition, and it conforms to the ends. Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing008.jpg Add heat and shrink down the wrap, be careful not to melt the webbing, it can handle the heat to a point. Make sure you heat evenly, so it tightens down correctly. Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing009.jpg Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing011.jpg Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing013.jpg Do both ends. I started with the connector end, then the handle last. Getting the shrink over the handle is tight, and it would be tighter if I had added the shrink to the handle first. I guess it would be near impossible with out tons of swearing and gnashing of teeth! Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing014.jpg Image: http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o116/ghnichols/Steamer%20Sheathing/SteamerSheathing015.jpg I think this is a very good idea for any steamer hose you have, its amazing how beat up the hose got the few times I used it, before I got all my supplies and built this up. Hope this helps you! Cheers, GREG I’ve picked up a steamer for dang cheap and have been looking for one for a VERY long time. I got the VX5000 steamer. I have seen steamers with a web sheathing covering the hose, used to resist abrasions and help it slide easier over the interiors as the hose is coiled and catches. I tried to buy the materials from the guy that makes these sheathings but no go, I understand as he is in it for the $$$ and all the time it took to work out the issues.
However, I have the time and patience to research this on my own, it took about 10 hours. The materials cost about 40$ to get, much cheaper than replacement of the hose!! I have all the info on what materials, sizes, lengths, amounts, etc. You can email me and I’ll get you the list and contacts. If you are so inclined, any product trades for this info would be welcomed…. SORRY THE PICS ARE POOR, INDOOR LIGHTING.

The steamer hose that needs to be built to heavy duty standards.


Here is the webbing used, its expandable and using the correct diameter is the trick. Too small and it wont fit over the ends, too big and the hose moves too much in the web.



You need to pull the webbing over the hose.


Slip the plastic shrink wrap over the webbing, getting the correct size and shrink ratio is critical. The hose on this is close to 1” diam, but the ends are closer to 2.25” diam.


Get the pieces aligned. Once its starts shrinking its very hard to reposition, and it conforms to the ends.


Add heat and shrink down the wrap, be careful not to melt the webbing, it can handle the heat to a point. Make sure you heat evenly, so it tightens down correctly.




Do both ends. I started with the connector end, then the handle last. Getting the shrink over the handle is tight, and it would be tighter if I had added the shrink to the handle first. I guess it would be near impossible with out tons of swearing and gnashing of teeth!






I think this is a very good idea for any steamer hose you have, its amazing how beat up the hose got the few times I used it, before I got all my supplies and built this up.

Hope this helps you!

Cheers,
GREG ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion Greg Nichols http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125371-steamer-hose-made-heavy-duty.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125354-what-sockets-do-you-use.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:29:10 GMT We blow $$$ on nuba.
And with the recent thread on wheel removal, I figured I'd start a thread on what sockets you guys use when you remove wheels.

I have a full fiberglass core socket by a company that went out of business. Complete inner core is fiberglass. True thinwall. Then I have my SO that is true thinwall deep sockets.

The reason I post this is recently, I recently purchased some more *soft sockets*. Not so much the stuff you see with the regular metal socket and nylon shell on the exterior. It was touted as thinwall and indeed the ~interior~ of this socket was soft. It was made of a metal alloy that had some ~give~ to it. However, in order to give it this ~cushion give and house the extra alloy~ in the interior of the socket, the overall socket was quite FAT and not thinwall.

These present major problems when you are dealing with $$ wheels, tight clearance tolerances on the lug holes and when you torque either way to loosen or tighten, the socket will have a tendency to deflect 1 - 2mm towards the SIDES of the lug bore hole.. IMO, while even putting electrical tape on the exterior socket may help to lessen the damage, U WANT the socket to basically not touch even the side of the wheel lug holes and in order for that to happen, you need TRUE thinwall sockets. Some wheels have different tolerances that others but when it is truly ~tight~ this is where I call ~true thinwall~ sockets shine.

It needs to be deep, and true thinwall on the whole barrel. Some of them chamfer out and get fatter on the end...I assume to give it structural strength.

Anyone else take ~sockets~ to the 9th degree. ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion chefwong http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125354-what-sockets-do-you-use.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125323-teflon-protection-wheels.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:32:20 GMT Any of you talented guys out there ever used teflon to protect alloy wheels from brake dust build up?. The idea being is the Teflon provides a slippery non stick coating, protecting against water, brake dust etc. I have found a supplier who can provide a pure 100% clear Teflon spray in a can, that does not yellow ,and will protect at -60c to +250c. I am hoping the +250c temp will be enough to prevent hot brake dust sticking to the wheel. I was going to introduce this as an extra, especially for new car prep? Cheers John. Any of you talented guys out there ever used teflon to protect alloy wheels from brake dust build up?. The idea being is the Teflon provides a slippery non stick coating, protecting against water, brake dust etc.
I have found a supplier who can provide a pure 100% clear Teflon spray in a can, that does not yellow ,and will protect at -60c to +250c. I am hoping the +250c temp will be enough to prevent hot brake dust sticking to the wheel.
I was going to introduce this as an extra, especially for new car prep?
Cheers John. ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion toby tyke http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125323-teflon-protection-wheels.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125321-all-i-want.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:05:25 GMT All I really want for me/my business is 2 commercial bays with a living space above the garage. 1500 sq feet down stairs and 1000 sq feet living space less than $350k. IS THAT TOO MUCH TO ASK?! What do you guys want realistically? All I really want for me/my business is 2 commercial bays with a living space above the garage. 1500 sq feet down stairs and 1000 sq feet living space less than $350k. IS THAT TOO MUCH TO ASK?!

What do you guys want realistically? ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion Jean-Claude http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125321-all-i-want.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125302-new-website.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:01:49 GMT What do you guys think? By no means am I a professional detailer more so just for friends and family

Straight Detailing

Comments, Suggestions, Words of Wisdom are much appreciated

//Edit

It's not 100% done yet but its done for the night ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion Candor http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125302-new-website.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125282-applying-303-aerospace-protectant.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:05:05 GMT Hello everyone. Recently purchased a new car and i've been reading up and getting into the world of detailing. Bought quite a bit of products that have done a great job for me. Just had a question regarding the product in my title. I find when i apply it with a MF towel, when i go back into the car hours later, i can see spots .. even places where i'm certain i went over with my MF. Are there any good tricks to applying this stuff so i don't get the blotchiness or the appearance of spots on my dash or other places i apply the product.

Thanks for your help !! ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion Dubravac http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125282-applying-303-aerospace-protectant.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125215-when-pads-done.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:20:44 GMT I was buffing a car the other day that had a clear bra on it and i got the pad close to it and it kinda scuffed my pad up i have done this before with areas i tape off when i am trying to get close. when this happens are the pads done for or are they still safe to use? pad was a orange lake country pad. Thanks I was buffing a car the other day that had a clear bra on it and i got the pad close to it and it kinda scuffed my pad up i have done this before with areas i tape off when i am trying to get close. when this happens are the pads done for or are they still safe to use? pad was a orange lake country pad. Thanks ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion White lexus 23 http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125215-when-pads-done.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125203-my-new-ride.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 03:30:26 GMT So today I bought a used 2005 Ford Freestar for my detailing business. Its also my "daily" driver. As per any car you buy from a dealer, used or new, the paint feels like sandpaper. I know what I'll be doing the next few days. Time to break out the clay bar, polish and sealant.

:hairpull :wall ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion AeroCleanse http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125203-my-new-ride.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125183-wheel-polishing.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:55:54 GMT had a detail a couple days ago and he wanted me to see what i could do with his bare aluminum wheels. i did one by hand and got ok results. i told him for me to get the best results to bring the wheels back to me, and ill pick up something to do a machine polish. in your experience what have you found to be the best product, and what tool? im seeing the power balls, and products like that, but do those actually work, i wanna bring these back to that mirror finisih. had a detail a couple days ago and he wanted me to see what i could do with his bare aluminum wheels. i did one by hand and got ok results. i told him for me to get the best results to bring the wheels back to me, and ill pick up something to do a machine polish.

in your experience what have you found to be the best product, and what tool?

im seeing the power balls, and products like that, but do those actually work, i wanna bring these back to that mirror finisih. ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion 5150kon http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125183-wheel-polishing.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125175-critique-my-business-card-2394823-a.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:18:59 GMT Sorry, I know there are a lot of these. :(

What started out as a side job I did out of my parents house for friends has blossomed into an occupation, so as such I now need business cards. I whipped this card up tonight, and I was hoping to get the opinion of ye kind Autopians. I tried to keep it simple and modern. The front (picture) will be gloss, and the back will be matte. I don't know if I'm really satisfied with the logo...

]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion vecdran http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125175-critique-my-business-card-2394823-a.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125171-steps-charge.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 04:44:08 GMT What would you charge for a 2007 4 door black BMW 335i? And last question what would be your steps ideally? Image: http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/wrecker9/IMG_0586.jpg Image: http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/wrecker9/IMG_0541.jpg Image: http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/wrecker9/IMG_0566.jpg Have been following alot of threads and post just wanted some input on this. Have also been doing some work for a while wanted to just hear thoughts? :thx B What would you charge for a 2007 4 door black BMW 335i? And last question what would be your steps ideally?





Have been following alot of threads and post just wanted some input on this. Have also been doing some work for a while wanted to just hear thoughts?

:thx B ]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion EuroSmurf http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125171-steps-charge.html http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125138-need-professional-opinion.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:43:40 GMT Newbie here, 2006 Volvo XC90 Had to have some paint work completed on the drivers door. The shop indicated they only painted and cleared the drivers door. However, I found what appears to almost be a thin film on the rear driver side door and driver side front fender. I thought I was able to get rid of it after I polished the car, but after I washed the car a week later it appeared again???? Attached is a picture, any advise would be appreciated. Image: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/punko71/DSC04963.jpg Image: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/punko71/DSC04961.jpg Newbie here,

2006 Volvo XC90

Had to have some paint work completed on the drivers door.

The shop indicated they only painted and cleared the drivers door. However, I found what appears to almost be a thin film on the rear driver side door and driver side front fender.

I thought I was able to get rid of it after I polished the car, but after I washed the car a week later it appeared again????

Attached is a picture, any advise would be appreciated.



]]> Professional Detailer General Discussion Punko http://www.autopia.org/forum/professional-detailer-general-discussion/125138-need-professional-opinion.html