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			<title><![CDATA[3" Mini Polisher- Gen II - Griot's Garage Mini Polisher]]></title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125359-3-mini-polisher-gen-ii-griot-s-garage-mini-polisher.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:24:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*3" Mini Polisher- 2nd Generation Griot's Garage Mini Polisher* (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/21846-3-mini-polisher-gen-ii-griot-s-garage-mini-polisher.html)

The new 2nd Generation *Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher* (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html) just arrived and I've been waiting for this little puppy to get here so I could take it for a test drive. I'm happy to say that it matches Griot's description of being *New & Improved* with the primary improvement being that it now has more power.

Like its big brother the Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html), the new and improved Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher , (or 3MP), offers enough power to keep a 3" foam cutting pad rotating under pressure as long as you hold the pad flat and even if you get a little edgy with it.

I loved the "idea" of the first generation 3MP but it just didn't have enough umph to make a top shelf tool, this new Gen II version fixed that problem by increasing the power enough to enable this new version to keep their 3" foam polishing pad rotating under medium pressure on flat surface with no problem.

I did some experimenting with both firm to extreme pressure and on a flat surface it will keep the 3" pad rotating but slower than with just medium pressure but it will keep it rotating. I couldn't stop the pad when working on a flat surface even with a ridiculous amount of pressure.

Here's the point, when working on thin panels to remove swirls you need to keep the pad rotating but you don't want it rotating so fast under pressure that you generate too much heat or you turn the polishing process into a grinding process. In most situations you will be using light to medium pressure and changing your chemical to increase or decrease cutting ability.

It appears to me that Griot's has found the balance between too little and too much and tweaked this new version to work in that sweet spot for good correction ability.

Besides the increase in power there's also

* 240 Watt Motor
* 3,500 to 10,000 OPM's - You'll mostly use the 4.6 speed range
* An improved on/off switch
* Soft start, constant speed feature
* An ergonomic built-in grip at the head of the unit
* 10' heavy duty cord
* Steel bevel gear drive for smoother operation
* A standard style backing plate with a 5/16" shaft instead of the previous backing plate that was held on with a Phillips Machine Screw

I'll need to use on some complete buff-outs to get a real-world feel for it before passing final judgment so this is just a primer to share with everyone interested in the new Gen II model.

Without further ado, here's some pictures...


As it comes packaged... 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3001.jpg 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3002.jpg 


What's in the box...
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3003.jpg 



The top model if Gen I and the bottom model is the new Gen II version
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3004.jpg 


Then new Gen II version uses a normal style backing plate like larger dual action polishers instead of a backing plate held on with a Phillips machine screw.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3005.jpg 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3006.jpg 


Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3007.jpg 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3008.jpg 


It includes a set of extra brushes... 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3009.jpg 


Testing rotating ability using some Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3010.jpg 


On the 6.0 setting working on an A-Pillar
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3011.jpg 


The thin panel surround a window on a Tahoe... 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3013.jpg 


*For more information:*
Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html)
Griot's Garage 3 Inch Orange Polishing Foam Pad 3 Pack (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orange-pads-3.html)
Griot's Garage 3 Inch Mini Red Wax Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-foam-wax-pad.html)
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/xyxthumbs.gif ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/21846-3-mini-polisher-gen-ii-griot-s-garage-mini-polisher.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>3&quot; Mini Polisher- 2nd Generation Griot's Garage Mini Polisher</b></font></a><br />
<br />
The new 2nd Generation <a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>Griot's Garage 3&quot; Mini Polisher</b></font></a> just arrived and I've been waiting for this little puppy to get here so I could take it for a test drive. I'm happy to say that it matches Griot's description of being *New &amp; Improved* with the primary improvement being that it now has more power.<br />
<br />
Like its big brother the <a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher</font></a>, the new and improved Griot's Garage 3&quot; Mini Polisher , (or 3MP), offers enough power to keep a 3&quot; foam cutting pad rotating under pressure as long as you hold the pad flat and even if you get a little edgy with it.<br />
<br />
I loved the &quot;idea&quot; of the first generation 3MP but it just didn't have enough umph to make a top shelf tool, this new Gen II version fixed that problem by increasing the power enough to enable this new version to keep their 3&quot; foam polishing pad rotating under medium pressure on flat surface with no problem.<br />
<br />
I did some experimenting with both firm to extreme pressure and on a flat surface it will keep the 3&quot; pad rotating but slower than with just medium pressure but it will keep it rotating. I couldn't stop the pad when working on a flat surface even with a ridiculous amount of pressure.<br />
<br />
Here's the point, when working on thin panels to remove swirls you need to keep the pad rotating but you don't want it rotating so fast under pressure that you generate too much heat or you turn the polishing process into a grinding process. In most situations you will be using light to medium pressure and changing your chemical to increase or decrease cutting ability.<br />
<br />
It appears to me that Griot's has found the balance between too little and too much and tweaked this new version to work in that sweet spot for good correction ability.<br />
<br />
Besides the increase in power there's also<br />
<ul><li>240 Watt Motor</li>
<li>3,500 to 10,000 OPM's - You'll mostly use the 4.6 speed range</li>
<li>An improved on/off switch</li>
<li>Soft start, constant speed feature</li>
<li>An ergonomic built-in grip at the head of the unit</li>
<li>10' heavy duty cord</li>
<li>Steel bevel gear drive for smoother operation</li>
<li>A standard style backing plate with a 5/16&quot; shaft instead of the previous backing plate that was held on with a Phillips Machine Screw</li>
</ul>I'll need to use on some complete buff-outs to get a real-world feel for it before passing final judgment so this is just a primer to share with everyone interested in the new Gen II model.<br />
<br />
Without further ado, here's some pictures...<br />
<br />
<br />
As it comes packaged... <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3001.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3002.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
What's in the box...<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3003.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The top model if Gen I and the bottom model is the new Gen II version<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3004.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Then new Gen II version uses a normal style backing plate like larger dual action polishers instead of a backing plate held on with a Phillips machine screw.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3005.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3006.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3007.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3008.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
It includes a set of extra brushes... <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3009.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Testing rotating ability using some  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=382&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care has established itself as one of the premier car care companies in the world through our dedication to achieving a concours quality shine. Drawing on German and American auto enhancement technology, Wolfgang detailing products break the mold of conventional waxes and polishes to create unsurpassed gloss, protection, and durability.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Wolfgang</a> Total Swirl Remover 3.0<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3010.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
On the 6.0 setting working on an A-Pillar<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3011.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
The thin panel surround a window on a Tahoe... <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/784/GGMini3013.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>For more information:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Griot's Garage 3&quot; Mini Polisher</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orange-pads-3.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Griot's Garage 3 Inch Orange Polishing Foam Pad 3 Pack</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-foam-wax-pad.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Griot's Garage 3 Inch Mini Red Wax Pad</font></a><br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/xyxthumbs.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike Phillips</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125359-3-mini-polisher-gen-ii-griot-s-garage-mini-polisher.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[New & improved! Griots 3" Polisher]]></title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125358-new-improved-griots-3-polisher.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:52:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2081_70978319 
 
*Griots 3" Polisher*
 
*Polish small areas with the greatest ease!*
 
 
*Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher has been upgraded to be more powerful! It provides polishing performance closer to that of the 6 inch orbital buffer. Remove swirls and apply waxes to motorcycles and tight areas on your vehicle with precision and now more power with the Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher.*
 
 
Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2081_70978319" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<b><font size="5">Griots 3&quot; Polisher</font></b><br />
 <br />
<font color="red"><b>Polish small areas with the greatest ease!</b></font><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher has been upgraded to be more powerful! It provides polishing performance closer to that of the 6 inch orbital buffer. Remove swirls and apply waxes to motorcycles and tight areas on your vehicle with precision and now more power with the Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher.</b><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html" target="_blank">Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125358-new-improved-griots-3-polisher.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Buffer Sale Event!</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125353-buffer-sale-event.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:08:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Image: http://images.cmpgnr.com/76082645/agne1258570425828.jpg 



 
Click for Details! (http://www.auto-geek.net/newsletters/News-11-17-09/AG-11-18-09.html)

:bounce</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://images.cmpgnr.com/76082645/agne1258570425828.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.auto-geek.net/newsletters/News-11-17-09/AG-11-18-09.html" target="_blank">Click for Details!</a><br />
<br />
:bounce</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125353-buffer-sale-event.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Ever thought about adding "wishlist" option to your site?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125325-ever-thought-about-adding-wishlist-option-your-site.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:42:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just wondering. :D</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just wondering. :D</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>**Frank**</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125325-ever-thought-about-adding-wishlist-option-your-site.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar - Review and How-to</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125307-wolfgang-elastic-poly-clay-bar-review-how.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:23:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar - Review and How-to*
 
Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2077_50491432 
 
 
*Review*
The Wolfgang clay bar is a professional grade clay and works great for removing above surface bonded contaminants like tree sap, air-borne pollution, industrial fallout, overspray paint, railroad and brake dust, etc.
 
Right out of the cellophane wrapper the clay is a little tacky and this helps the clay to capture and hold onto the contaminants you're removing. I wold like to point out that after you mist some spray detailer onto the clay, this dramatically reduces the tackiness of the clay.
 
 
 
 
*How-To*
The Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay bar (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg9000.html) is a hefty 200 gram bar of detailing clay that can easily be broken up into 4 - 50 gram clay bars if you like, or even 2-3 larger clay bars depending upon your personal preference.
 
Some people like the feel of a large fat patty of clay when claying their paint while others understand that all that's needed is a round patty of clay about 4" to 5" in diameter to provide ample surface area for removing above surface bonded contaminants and the thickness or thinness doesn't matter as only the surface area is doing the work. Since clay gets used up as it fills up with contaminants, it's actually better to use thin clay patties so that you get the most use out of your clay bar because once the clay is full of contaminants you then throw it away.
 
You can easily get 4 pieces of clay out of one 200 gram clay bar and you can use each clay portion multiple times before it needs to be replaced. How many times of course depends upon how contaminated your car's finish is to start with.
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay021.jpg 
 
 
The Wolfgang clay bar comes sealed in a cellophane wrapper to keep i clean. Here's a U.S. quarter for comparison to give you an idea as to just how hefty a 200 gram clay bar is 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay022.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay023.jpg 
 
 
I've taken and broken the 200 gram clay bar into 4 equal pieces and then kneaded one into a round patty about 4" in diameter while rolling the other 3 segments into round balls of clay.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay020.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay024.jpg 
 
 
Now I've formed all 4 into round patties of clay approximately 4" in diameter.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay025.jpg 
 
 
A clay patty approximately 4" in diameter is a good general size for most people's hands
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay026.jpg 
 
 
When using a clay patty, hold it in your hand with your fingertips protruding past the end of the patty, don't hold it in a way where your fingertips are covered by clay as you'll tend to apply more pressure to your fingertips and push holes through the clay before you're ready to knead it. Not a big deal because you can always re-knead your clay to make a new patty but it's nice to do this when you decide, not when your clay patty decides for you.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay027.jpg 
 
 
Another point of reference as to what size to form your clay patty is about the size of an average foam applicator pad. In this example, here's a 4" Wolfgang foam applicator pad (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwolfgang-foam-pads-6.html).
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay028.jpg 
 
 
See how the clay patty almost perfectly covers the applicator pad.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay029.jpg 
 
 
From a horizontal point of view you can see that you don't need a thick patty of clay, a thin patty works well also as the only portion of the clay that's working for you is the face or surface of the patty.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay030.jpg 
 
 
 
For my review, I'm going to use just one of the clay portions and save the other 3 portions in a Zip-lock baggie for a future detailing session.
 
The demo car is well kept but sits out side 24 hours a day and while parked at home there are nearby trees that release tree sap so when I inspected the finish it had a rough, textured feel to it which is a sure sign that the paint needed to be clayed.
 
First I sprayed some Wolfgang Clay Lubricant (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg1100.html) onto the clay itself and then onto the section of paint to be clayed. The goal is to insure there is plenty lubrication between the clay and the paint to enable the clay to glide over the surface.
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay001.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay002.jpg 
 
 
Next I rubbed the clay patty back and forth over an area about 16" inches squarish or so. At first you will feel the clay grabbing a little bit, that's normal, as you continue to move the clay over the paint it will remove more and more above surface bonded contaminants and then will start gliding effortlessly. This is a pretty good sign that this area is now clean and smooth and you can wipe-off the lubricant residue and then move onto a new section.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay003.jpg 
 
 
After claying about half the hood I stopped and turned the clay over and laid it next to an un-used clay patty to show the accumulation of above surface bonded contaminants on the surface of the clay. Notice the brown tint the clay on the right side has.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay004.jpg 
 
 
As you clay, periodically turn your clay patty over and inspect the surface, when it appears to have a film of contaminants on the surface, stop and take a moment to fold the clay over into itself a couple of times and then you can re-knead it to expose fresh, uncontaminated clay material.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay005.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay006.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay007.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay008.jpg 
 
 
Sometimes twisting the clay is another good way to thoroughly mix the clay to expose a fresh material.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay009.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay010.jpg 
 
 
After thoroughly mixing the clay, then squeeze it out using your palms into a small patty and then continue to knead the clay with your fingers to knead to clay back into a round patty.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay012.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay013.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay014.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay015.jpg 
 
 
 
When you're finished claying the paint, if it's still in usable condition, you can spray a little clay lubricant into the original container or a clean, Zip-Lock baggie to store it for future use.
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay016.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay017.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay018.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay019.jpg 
 
 
 
 
*Additional Comments*
If you're new to detailing and/or new to using detailing clay, here's some additional information on the importance and benefits of detailing clay
 
 
*Detailing Clay Safely Removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants*
Over time, if your car is parked outside for any length of time during each day then any dirt or air-borne contaminants that land on the paint will tend to bond to the paint if they are not removed in a timely manner. Once they bond to the paint some of them won't come off just from normal washing. This is where detailing clay comes into the picture.
 
Detailing clay uses a special abrasive that has the ability to basically sand off any contaminants sitting on top of the surface off without installing scratches into your car's paint at the same time. In the old days, people would use coarse rubbing compounds to remove above surface bonded contaminants and while these types of products would work they would also instill scratches into the paint and at the same time remove perfectly good paint. That's two negative things you don't want to do your car's precious clear layer of paint. 
 
 
*Detailing Clay Restores a Smooth Surface*
Everyone agrees a GREAT looking finish is a GLOSSY finish and gloss comes from smoothness. As air-borne contaminants build-up on your car's paint they create texture or bumpy or irregular surface and this reduces gloss. Simply claying your car's paint will restore the paint back to the smooth surface it had when it was new and this will restore gloss.
 
 
*Detailing Clay Enables Your Choice of Wax or Paint Sealant To Last Longer*
You see chemists create wax and paint sealant formulas to bond or adhere to paint which is a type of resin; they don't create their formulas to bond or adhere to layers of dirt build-up. The build-up of contaminants on your car's finish is a film or layer of dirt over the paint and this film prevents your choice of wax or paint sealant from properly bonding to the paint. By washing and then claying your car's paint you will enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond to the paint and thus last longer.
 
 
*The order in which to use detailing clay*
After washing, claying the paint should be done before trying to remove swirls and scratches.  A common question goes like this,
 
*Should I clay first and then use a polish or swirl mark remover? Or use a polish first and then clay?*
 
The answer is
 
*First go after the defects sitting on top of the surface to get them out of the way, (above surface bonded contaminants), then go after the defects that are in the paint, (below surface defects).*
 
 
 
*Above Surface Bonded Contaminant* = Tree Sap, Overspray Paint, Industrial Fallout, Rail Dust, Industrial Fallout and Air-borne pollution
 
*Below Surface Defects* = Swirls, Scratches, Type II Water Spots and Bird Dropping Etchings
 
 
 
 
*Products shown*
Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay bar (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg9000.html) 
Wolfgang Clay Lubricant (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg1100.html)
4" Wolfgang foam applicator pad (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwolfgang-foam-pads-6.html).]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b> <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=382&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care has established itself as one of the premier car care companies in the world through our dedication to achieving a concours quality shine. Drawing on German and American auto enhancement technology, Wolfgang detailing products break the mold of conventional waxes and polishes to create unsurpassed gloss, protection, and durability.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Wolfgang</a> Elastic Poly Clay Bar - Review and How-to</b><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2077_50491432" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Review</b><br />
The  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=382&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care has established itself as one of the premier car care companies in the world through our dedication to achieving a concours quality shine. Drawing on German and American auto enhancement technology, Wolfgang detailing products break the mold of conventional waxes and polishes to create unsurpassed gloss, protection, and durability.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Wolfgang</a> clay bar is a professional grade clay and works great for removing above surface bonded contaminants like tree sap, air-borne pollution, industrial fallout, overspray paint, railroad and brake dust, etc.<br />
 <br />
Right out of the cellophane wrapper the clay is a little tacky and this helps the clay to capture and hold onto the contaminants you're removing. I wold like to point out that after you mist some spray detailer onto the clay, this dramatically reduces the tackiness of the clay.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>How-To</b><br />
The <a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg9000.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay bar</font></a> is a hefty 200 gram bar of detailing clay that can easily be broken up into 4 - 50 gram clay bars if you like, or even 2-3 larger clay bars depending upon your personal preference.<br />
 <br />
Some people like the feel of a large fat patty of clay when claying their paint while others understand that all that's needed is a round patty of clay about 4&quot; to 5&quot; in diameter to provide ample surface area for removing above surface bonded contaminants and the thickness or thinness doesn't matter as only the surface area is doing the work. Since clay gets used up as it fills up with contaminants, it's actually better to use thin clay patties so that you get the most use out of your clay bar because once the clay is full of contaminants you then throw it away.<br />
 <br />
You can easily get 4 pieces of clay out of one 200 gram clay bar and you can use each clay portion multiple times before it needs to be replaced. How many times of course depends upon how contaminated your car's finish is to start with.<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay021.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
The  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=382&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care has established itself as one of the premier car care companies in the world through our dedication to achieving a concours quality shine. Drawing on German and American auto enhancement technology, Wolfgang detailing products break the mold of conventional waxes and polishes to create unsurpassed gloss, protection, and durability.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Wolfgang</a> clay bar comes sealed in a cellophane wrapper to keep i clean. Here's a U.S. quarter for comparison to give you an idea as to just how hefty a 200 gram clay bar is <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay022.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay023.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
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I've taken and broken the 200 gram clay bar into 4 equal pieces and then kneaded one into a round patty about 4&quot; in diameter while rolling the other 3 segments into round balls of clay.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay020.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay024.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
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Now I've formed all 4 into round patties of clay approximately 4&quot; in diameter.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay025.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
A clay patty approximately 4&quot; in diameter is a good general size for most people's hands<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay026.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
When using a clay patty, hold it in your hand with your fingertips protruding past the end of the patty, don't hold it in a way where your fingertips are covered by clay as you'll tend to apply more pressure to your fingertips and push holes through the clay before you're ready to knead it. Not a big deal because you can always re-knead your clay to make a new patty but it's nice to do this when you decide, not when your clay patty decides for you.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay027.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
Another point of reference as to what size to form your clay patty is about the size of an average foam applicator pad. In this example, here's a <a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwolfgang-foam-pads-6.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">4&quot; Wolfgang foam applicator pad</font></a>.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay028.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
See how the clay patty almost perfectly covers the applicator pad.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay029.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
From a horizontal point of view you can see that you don't need a thick patty of clay, a thin patty works well also as the only portion of the clay that's working for you is the face or surface of the patty.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay030.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
For my review, I'm going to use just one of the clay portions and save the other 3 portions in a Zip-lock baggie for a future detailing session.<br />
 <br />
The demo car is well kept but sits out side 24 hours a day and while parked at home there are nearby trees that release tree sap so when I inspected the finish it had a rough, textured feel to it which is a sure sign that the paint needed to be clayed.<br />
 <br />
First I sprayed some <a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg1100.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Wolfgang Clay Lubricant</font></a> onto the clay itself and then onto the section of paint to be clayed. The goal is to insure there is plenty lubrication between the clay and the paint to enable the clay to glide over the surface.<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay001.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay002.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
Next I rubbed the clay patty back and forth over an area about 16&quot; inches squarish or so. At first you will feel the clay grabbing a little bit, that's normal, as you continue to move the clay over the paint it will remove more and more above surface bonded contaminants and then will start gliding effortlessly. This is a pretty good sign that this area is now clean and smooth and you can wipe-off the lubricant residue and then move onto a new section.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay003.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
After claying about half the hood I stopped and turned the clay over and laid it next to an un-used clay patty to show the accumulation of above surface bonded contaminants on the surface of the clay. Notice the brown tint the clay on the right side has.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay004.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
As you clay, periodically turn your clay patty over and inspect the surface, when it appears to have a film of contaminants on the surface, stop and take a moment to fold the clay over into itself a couple of times and then you can re-knead it to expose fresh, uncontaminated clay material.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay005.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay006.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay007.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay008.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
Sometimes twisting the clay is another good way to thoroughly mix the clay to expose a fresh material.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay009.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay010.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
After thoroughly mixing the clay, then squeeze it out using your palms into a small patty and then continue to knead the clay with your fingers to knead to clay back into a round patty.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay012.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay013.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay014.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay015.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
When you're finished claying the paint, if it's still in usable condition, you can spray a little clay lubricant into the original container or a clean, Zip-Lock baggie to store it for future use.<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay016.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay017.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay018.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/767/WGClay019.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Additional Comments</b><br />
If you're new to detailing and/or new to using detailing clay, here's some additional information on the importance and benefits of detailing clay<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Detailing Clay Safely Removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants</b><br />
Over time, if your car is parked outside for any length of time during each day then any dirt or air-borne contaminants that land on the paint will tend to bond to the paint if they are not removed in a timely manner. Once they bond to the paint some of them won't come off just from normal washing. This is where detailing clay comes into the picture.<br />
 <br />
Detailing clay uses a special abrasive that has the ability to basically sand off any contaminants sitting on top of the surface off without installing scratches into your car's paint at the same time. In the old days, people would use coarse rubbing compounds to remove above surface bonded contaminants and while these types of products would work they would also instill scratches into the paint and at the same time remove perfectly good paint. That's two negative things you don't want to do your car's precious clear layer of paint. <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Detailing Clay Restores a Smooth Surface</b><br />
Everyone agrees a GREAT looking finish is a GLOSSY finish and gloss comes from smoothness. As air-borne contaminants build-up on your car's paint they create texture or bumpy or irregular surface and this reduces gloss. Simply claying your car's paint will restore the paint back to the smooth surface it had when it was new and this will restore gloss.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Detailing Clay Enables Your Choice of Wax or Paint Sealant To Last Longer</b><br />
You see chemists create wax and paint sealant formulas to bond or adhere to paint which is a type of resin; they don't create their formulas to bond or adhere to layers of dirt build-up. The build-up of contaminants on your car's finish is a film or layer of dirt over the paint and this film prevents your choice of wax or paint sealant from properly bonding to the paint. By washing and then claying your car's paint you will enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond to the paint and thus last longer.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>The order in which to use detailing clay</b><br />
After washing, claying the paint should be done before trying to remove swirls and scratches.  A common question goes like this,<br />
 <br />
<b><i><font color="blue">Should I clay first and then use a polish or swirl mark remover? Or use a polish first and then clay?</font></i></b><br />
 <br />
The answer is<br />
 <br />
<b><i><font color="blue">First go after the defects sitting on top of the surface to get them out of the way, (above surface bonded contaminants), then go after the defects that are in the paint, (below surface defects).</font></i></b><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Above Surface Bonded Contaminant</b> = Tree Sap, Overspray Paint, Industrial Fallout, Rail Dust, Industrial Fallout and Air-borne pollution<br />
 <br />
<b>Below Surface Defects</b> = Swirls, Scratches, Type II Water Spots and Bird Dropping Etchings<br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Products shown</b><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg9000.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay bar</font></a> <br />
<a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwg1100.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Wolfgang Clay Lubricant</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autogeek.net%2Fwolfgang-foam-pads-6.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">4&quot; Wolfgang foam applicator pad</font></a>.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike Phillips</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125307-wolfgang-elastic-poly-clay-bar-review-how.html</guid>
		</item>
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			<title>New Dodo Products</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125269-new-dodo-products.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:10:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2081_70677491 
 
 
*Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax 200 ml.*
 
 
More paint-protecting ingredients!


*If you like the original Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Wax, you'll really fall for Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax. There's more to love in this latest incarnation of paste carnauba wax plus the durable paint sealant ingredient found in Dodo Juice Red Mist. Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Soft Wax has increased longevity and a deep carnauba shine.*


 
 
 
 
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax (http://www.autogeek.net/dodo-blue-velvet-pro-wax.html)
 
 
 
Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2081_70870119 
 
*Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner 500 ml*

 

*Gentle on all wheels, yet tough on grime.*
 
*Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner is a safe and effective wheel cleaner for all wheels. It's controlled acidic formula attacks the grime, not the wheel, so you're left with perfect results every time. Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner dispels the myth that acidic wheel cleaners can't be gentle.*


Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner (http://www.autogeek.net/mellow-yellow-wheel-cleaner.html)
 
 
 
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2081_70677491" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<div align="left"><font color="#000000"><font face="Tahoma"><b>Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax 200 ml.</b></font></font></div> <br />
 <br />
<div align="left"><font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><font face="arial"><font face="Baskerville Black SSi"><font size="4"><font color="#ff0000">More paint-protecting ingredients!</font></font></font></font></font></font></div><font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><br />
<br />
<font face="arial"><div align="left"><b>If you like the original Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Wax, you'll really fall for Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax. There's more to love in this latest incarnation of paste carnauba wax plus the durable paint sealant ingredient found in Dodo Juice Red Mist. Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Soft Wax has increased longevity and a deep carnauba shine.</b></div></font><br />
</font></font><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><a href="http://www.autogeek.net/dodo-blue-velvet-pro-wax.html" target="_blank">Dodo Juice Blue Velvet PRO Hard Wax</a></font></font><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2081_70870119" border="0" alt="" /></font></font><br />
 <br />
<div align="left"><font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><font color="#000000"><font face="Tahoma"><b>Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner 500 ml</b></font></font></font></font></div><font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><br />
 <br />
<br />
<font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><div align="left"><font face="arial"><font color="red"><b>Gentle on all wheels, yet tough on grime.</b></font></font><br />
 <br />
<div align="left"><font face="Tahoma"><b>Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner is a safe and effective wheel cleaner for all wheels. It's controlled acidic formula attacks the grime, not the wheel, so you're left with perfect results every time. Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner dispels the myth that acidic wheel cleaners can't be gentle.</b></font></div></div></font></font><font face="Tahoma"><font color="#000000"><br />
<div align="left"><a href="http://www.autogeek.net/mellow-yellow-wheel-cleaner.html" target="_blank">Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner</a></div></font></font> <br />
 <br />
 <br />
</font></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125269-new-dodo-products.html</guid>
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			<title>1 Day Left! Autogeek Sale</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125231-1-day-left-autogeek-sale.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 13:36:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Through November 15, Save 15% on orders with code 15BELOW at Autogeek.net on orders over $75. As a additional bonus all orders over $75 using the code will receive a FREE bottle of Pinnacle Crystal Mist, a $24.99 value!

Newsletter Specials (http://www.autogeek.net/newsletter-special.html)</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Through November 15, Save 15% on orders with code 15BELOW at Autogeek.net on orders over $75. As a additional bonus all orders over $75 using the code will receive a FREE bottle of  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=392&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Pinnacle Natural Brilliance is a collection of world class car care products, including our benchmark car wax, Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Paste Wax. Souveran Carnauba Wax is the best wax for black and red cars with rippling gloss and sharp reflections.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.pinnaclewax.com/\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Pinnacle Natural Brilliance", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Pinnacle</a>  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=403&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Pinnacle Crystal Mist Carnauba Detail Spray has been reformulated with restructured gloss-enhancing crystalline polymers, nourishing oils, and real Brazilian carnauba wax to provide your vehicle with an instant burst of shine and slickness. This is the next generation of Crystal Mist Carnauba Detail Spray.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.pinnaclewax.com/crystalmist.html\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detail Spray", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Crystal Mist</a>, a $24.99 value!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/newsletter-special.html" target="_blank">Newsletter Specials</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
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			<title>Diamondite Prices Rolled Back this week!</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125230-diamondite-prices-rolled-back-week.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 13:30:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2079_2660308 

A good time to stock up on Diamondite Glass and Plastic Products!

Diamondite® (http://www.autogeek.net/diglclsy.html)</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2079_2660308" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
A good time to stock up on  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=443&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Diamondite is a revolutionary collection of glass and plastic care products unsurpassed in their ability to restore and protect clear surfaces. Diamondite`s glass polish, cleaners, repair kits, plastic polish, vinyl cleansers, and clear surface sealants give you the ability to restore clear automotive surfaces to like-new condition.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.diamondite.com\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Diamondite Glass & Plastic Care", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Diamondite</a> Glass and Plastic Products!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/diglclsy.html" target="_blank">Diamondite®</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125230-diamondite-prices-rolled-back-week.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>RaggTopp - Cool Pictures!</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125161-raggtopp-cool-pictures.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 21:04:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*RaggTopp Fabric Protectant Review - Waterproofing & Waterbeadingand and Good Looks Too!* (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/21706-raggtopp-fabric-protectant-review-waterproofing-waterbeading.html)
 
 
After having my Bikini Top made I treated it with 2-3 applications of *RaggTopp* (http://www.autogeek.net/rafaca.html) Fabric Protectant to insure it was waterproof because when it rains here in Stuart, Florida it comes down by the bucket loads. 
 
About an hour ago we had a shower and there was a thread about cloth tops and vinyl tops and that got me wondering what my top looked like as it's easily been about a month since I treated the Bikini Top. This truck is parked out side 24 hours a day and 7 days a week so it sees ALL the rain we get as well as a lot of wind and dirt and dust in the air. For all these reasons I wanted to get a good waterproof coating applied before the top had any dirt penetrated into the weave of the cloth.
 
So I grabbed my trusty and polish splatted Rebel T1i and snapped a few pictures for another thread and thought, heck might as well make this a review while I'm at it..
 
This is a far shot looking just past the Surfboard brackets. The water pools in 4 areas that sink down with the weight of the accumulated water but the water never penetrates into the inside of the fabric.
 
At the higher elevations of the top surrounding the edge of the windshield the water beads up. Either place, doesn't matter as the water never penetrates the material, it just beads up or pools.
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading01.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading02.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading03.jpg 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading04.jpg 
 
 
My top was new and as such clean so if you're working on an older top you should consider getting the kit and cleaning the top well before sealing it with the protectant.
 
*RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Care Kit* (http://www.autogeek.net/racotopcakit.html)
*Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2076_32807062 *
 
Or by itself...
 
*RaggTopp Fabric Protectant* (http://www.autogeek.net/rapr.html)
*Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2076_33294292 *
 
 
Besides creating a waterproof surface, the RaggTopp Protectant also provides 

* *Protects By Keeping Out the Elements of Nature and Man*
* *Renews and Extends the Life of Older Tops*
* *UV Protection with UV Stabilizers*
* *Contains NO SILICONE*
* *Will Not Harm Automotive Finishes, Chrome, Trim, Glass, Vinyl, Rubber or Plastic Windows*
* *Ozone Friendly to Meet California Air Quality Standards*
* *Tested and endorsed by Haartz Corporation, the world's leading manufacturer of convertible topping*

*It's also real easy to apply just use it like a can of spray paint and allow enough time for each application to dry before applying follow-up coatings.*
 
*On a side note, I met the owner Rick Goldstein at SEMA and he's a genuinely nice guy as well as a car guy!*
 
*Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/sema2009/IMG_3813.JPG *
 
 
*Besides protecting and waterproofing your top, it keeps it looking new...*
 
*Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/JimmysNewTop01.jpg *
 
 
*Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/xyxthumbs.gif  *]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/21706-raggtopp-fabric-protectant-review-waterproofing-waterbeading.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>RaggTopp Fabric Protectant Review - Waterproofing &amp; Waterbeadingand and Good Looks Too!</b></font></a><br />
 <br />
 <br />
After having my Bikini Top made I treated it with 2-3 applications of <a href="http://www.autogeek.net/rafaca.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>RaggTopp</b></font></a> Fabric Protectant to insure it was waterproof because when it rains here in Stuart, Florida it comes down by the bucket loads. <br />
 <br />
About an hour ago we had a shower and there was a thread about cloth tops and vinyl tops and that got me wondering what my top looked like as it's easily been about a month since I treated the Bikini Top. This truck is parked out side 24 hours a day and 7 days a week so it sees ALL the rain we get as well as a lot of wind and dirt and dust in the air. For all these reasons I wanted to get a good waterproof coating applied before the top had any dirt penetrated into the weave of the cloth.<br />
 <br />
So I grabbed my trusty and polish splatted Rebel T1i and snapped a few pictures for another thread and thought, heck might as well make this a review while I'm at it..<br />
 <br />
This is a far shot looking just past the Surfboard brackets. The water pools in 4 areas that sink down with the weight of the accumulated water but the water never penetrates into the inside of the fabric.<br />
 <br />
At the higher elevations of the top surrounding the edge of the windshield the water beads up. Either place, doesn't matter as the water never penetrates the material, it just beads up or pools.<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading01.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading02.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading03.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/752/RaggToppBeading04.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
My top was new and as such clean so if you're working on an older top you should consider getting the kit and cleaning the top well before sealing it with the protectant.<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/racotopcakit.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Care Kit</b></font></a><br />
<b><img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2076_32807062" border="0" alt="" /></b><br />
 <br />
Or by itself...<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/rapr.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>RaggTopp Fabric Protectant</b></font></a><br />
<b><img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2076_33294292" border="0" alt="" /></b><br />
 <br />
 <br />
Besides creating a waterproof surface, the RaggTopp Protectant also provides <br />
<ul><li><b>Protects By Keeping Out the Elements of Nature and Man</b></li>
<li><b>Renews and Extends the Life of Older Tops</b></li>
<li><b>UV Protection with UV Stabilizers</b></li>
<li><b>Contains NO SILICONE</b></li>
<li><b>Will Not Harm Automotive Finishes, Chrome, Trim, Glass, Vinyl, Rubber or Plastic Windows</b></li>
<li><b>Ozone Friendly to Meet California Air Quality Standards</b></li>
<li><b>Tested and endorsed by Haartz Corporation, the world's leading manufacturer of convertible topping</b></li>
</ul><b>It's also real easy to apply just use it like a can of spray paint and allow enough time for each application to dry before applying follow-up coatings.</b><br />
 <br />
<b>On a side note, I met the owner Rick Goldstein at SEMA and he's a genuinely nice guy as well as a car guy!</b><br />
 <br />
<b><img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/sema2009/IMG_3813.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></b><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>Besides protecting and waterproofing your top, it keeps it looking new...</b><br />
 <br />
<b><img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/JimmysNewTop01.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></b><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b><img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/xyxthumbs.gif" border="0" alt="" /> </b></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike Phillips</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125161-raggtopp-cool-pictures.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Removing Orange Peel & Sanding Marks with the Griot's ROP and the Wolfgang Twins]]></title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125153-removing-orange-peel-sanding-marks-griot-s-rop-wolfgang-twins.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:52:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*Removing Orange Peel & Sanding Marks with the Griot's ROP and the Wolfgang Twins* (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21463-removing-sanding-marks-griot-s-rop-wolfgang-twins.html)

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1001.jpg 

*List of products used*
Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html)
PosiTest Paint Thickness Gauge (http://www.autogeek.net/paint-thickness-gauge.html)
Brinkman Swirl Finder Light (http://www.autogeek.net/brinkmann-swirl-finder-light.html)
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-total-swirl-remover-car-polish-3-0.html)
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-finishing-glaze-finishing-polish-3-0.html)
Nikken #2000 Finishing Papers (http://www.autogeek.net/2500-grit-sandpaper.html)
Nikken #2500 Finishing Papers (http://www.autogeek.net/2500-grit-sandpaper.html)
Nikken #3000 Finishing Papers (http://www.autogeek.net/3000-grit-sandpaper.html)
Meguiar's E-7200 Rubber Backing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-sanding-pad.html)
Lake Country 5.5" Yellow Foam CCS Cutting Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html)
Lake Country 5.5" White Foam CCS Polishing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html)
Generic Spray Bottle (http://www.autogeek.net/m9911.html) with Clean water and drop or two of Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo (http://www.autogeek.net/pinbodsham.html)
3M Scotch 233+ Premium Automotive Masking Tape 18mm x 32m (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-scotch-tape-18.html)
GritGuard 5-Gallon Bucket System with Dolly - Red (http://www.autogeek.net/wash-bucket-system2.html)
Autogeek Complete Two Bucket Wash System - Red (http://www.autogeek.net/perfect-car-wash-system2.html)
Brass Shut Off Valve (http://www.autogeek.net/sibrco.html)
Brass Quick Connector Set (http://www.autogeek.net/brqucoset.html)



*IMPORTANT*
I don't recommend anyone to sand on a factory baked-on clear coat. The paint is thin and usually hard, (relative to fresh paint and most single stage paint), and unless you're very careful it will be very easy to make a mistake. Also, as I listed below, in most cases, a rotary buffer is the best tool option for removing sanding marks out of any kind of paint. That said, I know a lot of enthusiasts are experimenting with wet-sanding factory baked-on finishes and then trying to remove their sanding marks using a dual action polisher. So keep this in mind before you tackle sanding factory paint and trying to remove your sanding marks using a DA style polisher and above all... do a *TEST SPOT* before attempting to sand and buff the entire car.



A few very important things to keep in mind. *1.* The best tool for the job when it comes to removing sanding marks from an *entire* car is a rotary buffer with a wool pad, the appropriate compound and a little experience.

*2.* Factory baked-on paint is usually thin and hard, that's two HUGE negatives working against you should you be in a position to want or need to sand on factory paint.

*3.* Always use the least aggressive approach to get the job done

*4.* Always do a Test Spot to a small section and make sure you can get 100% of your sanding marks out before sanding further.

*5.* Only sand enough to remove or improve the defects you're trying to remove

*6.* Remember that sanding removes paint as does the compounding and polishing process, so take this into account as you science-out the project. 

*7.* If possible, use a Paint Thickness Gage to measure the film-build before sanding an note on a form the reading you take for before, during and after. A Paint Thickness Gauge is a handy tool to give you and indication as to overall paint thickness as well as any bodywork or re-paint that has been done to spot areas or entire panels. (Even an entire car although this articles is focused on factory paint)

*8.* Don't sand too close to edges or hard/sharp body lines. It's easy to sand paint next to edges and hard/sharp body lines but it's harder to remove your sanding marks by machine in these areas without the risk of buffing on the actual edge or body line and risk burning through the paint. Usually paint is thinner on edges and body lines to start with so it's even riskier than in the middle of a flat horizontal panel. You can come back and remove your sanding marks by hand with a product like M105 or even Ultimate Compound as both of these products are aggressive enough and safe enough to pull sanding marks by hand.

*9.* *Most important* - Always work clean. This includes your shop environment, the vehicle, your buffing pads, your tools, your polishing cloths, everything you have control over. 

In the below write-up I've included some tips for wet-sanding by hand and documented how much paint is being removed during each step. All the work is being done on the factory finish on a GM Hood so that its' a better comparison of apples to apples for those of you working on factory paint

The good news is by using quality products and good technique and finishing out to #3000 grit "Nikken Finishing Papers" it was easy to remove 99.999% of the sanding marks with only one single tracer discovered.


*Soak your papers at least 15 minutes before use.*
The Nikken Finishing papers have a latex rubber impregnated paper backing that is waterproof and this prevents the finishing paper from breaking-down into pulp from over soaking. I've personally soaked these paper in water for over 2 years with no visible sign of deterioration. (This was by accident as I lost a sealed Tupperware container filled with water and Nikken papers I used to take with me to demonstrations)

It's possible for grit particles to enter into your water source so if you can, use Grit Guards in the bottom of your bucket.

If you want to get really D.O., you can place your papers in dedicated buckets and also use dedicated backing pads for the different grits. The idea is to avoid instilling deeper scratches as you work upward to less aggressive products and to avoid any kind of abrasive particle trapped between your sandpaper and the finish to avoid Tracers.

*Dedicated buckets for specific grits of paper. Grit Guard Inserts in the bottom of each bucket. *
(You could theoretically use 2, even 3 Grit Guard inserts in each bucket for even more protection)
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1002.jpg 


*I'll start with Nikken #2000 Grit Finishing Paper*
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1003.jpg 


*I'll remove the #2000 Grit Sanding Marks and replace them with #2500 Grit Sanding Marks*
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1004.jpg 


*I'll do my final passes using ultra fine #3000 Grit Nikken Finishing Papers* 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1005.jpg 



*Add just a few drops of a quality car wash soap to help add lubricity to your water. If you're working on Fresh Paint and/or in a Body Shop, (Fresh Paint Environment), then you want to make sure you're using a body shop safe soap.*
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1006.jpg 


*Add fresh, clean water. Also be sure to wash and rinse out your buckets before starting, everything must be surgically clean before placing your papers into the buckets.*
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1007.jpg 


*It's normal for your papers to roll up like this,*
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1008.jpg 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1009.jpg 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1010.jpg 


*Mark you buckets so you can quickly and easily identify which buckets hold which papers.*

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1011.jpg 



To be continued...

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21463-removing-sanding-marks-griot-s-rop-wolfgang-twins.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>Removing Orange Peel &amp; Sanding Marks with the Griot's ROP and the  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=382&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care has established itself as one of the premier car care companies in the world through our dedication to achieving a concours quality shine. Drawing on German and American auto enhancement technology, Wolfgang detailing products break the mold of conventional waxes and polishes to create unsurpassed gloss, protection, and durability.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Wolfgang Car Care", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Wolfgang</a> Twins</b></font></a><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1001.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<b>List of products used</b><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/paint-thickness-gauge.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">PosiTest Paint Thickness Gauge</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/brinkmann-swirl-finder-light.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Brinkman Swirl Finder Light</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-total-swirl-remover-car-polish-3-0.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-finishing-glaze-finishing-polish-3-0.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/2500-grit-sandpaper.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Nikken #2000 Finishing Papers</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/2500-grit-sandpaper.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Nikken #2500 Finishing Papers</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/3000-grit-sandpaper.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Nikken #3000 Finishing Papers</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-sanding-pad.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Meguiar's E-7200 Rubber Backing Pad</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Lake Country 5.5&quot; Yellow Foam CCS Cutting Pad</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Lake Country 5.5&quot; White Foam CCS Polishing Pad</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/m9911.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Generic Spray Bottle</font></a> with Clean water and drop or two of <a href="http://www.autogeek.net/pinbodsham.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Pinnacle  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=408&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Think of the invigorating experience of a fragrant bath at a luxury spa and you`ll begin to understand the pampering effects of Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. Natural coconut oils and silky moisturizers are blended together to give your vehicle the ultimate luscious wash. This is a rejuvenating experience for both car and driver.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.pinnaclewax.com/bodsham.html\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>Bodywork Shampoo</a></font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/3m-scotch-tape-18.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">3M Scotch 233+ Premium Automotive Masking Tape 18mm x 32m</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/wash-bucket-system2.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">GritGuard 5-Gallon Bucket System with Dolly - Red</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/perfect-car-wash-system2.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Autogeek Complete Two Bucket Wash System - Red</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/sibrco.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Brass Shut Off Valve</font></a><br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/brqucoset.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue">Brass Quick Connector Set</font></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><font color="red">IMPORTANT</font></b><br />
I don't recommend anyone to sand on a factory baked-on clear coat. The paint is thin and usually hard, (relative to fresh paint and most single stage paint), and unless you're very careful it will be very easy to make a mistake. Also, as I listed below, in most cases, a rotary buffer is the best tool option for removing sanding marks out of any kind of paint. That said, I know a lot of enthusiasts are experimenting with wet-sanding factory baked-on finishes and then trying to remove their sanding marks using a dual action polisher. So keep this in mind before you tackle sanding factory paint and trying to remove your sanding marks using a DA style polisher and above all... do a <b>TEST SPOT</b> before attempting to sand and buff the entire car.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A few very important things to keep in mind. <blockquote><b>1.</b> The best tool for the job when it comes to removing sanding marks from an <b>entire</b> car is a rotary buffer with a wool pad, the appropriate compound and a little experience.<br />
<br />
<b>2.</b> Factory baked-on paint is usually thin and hard, that's two HUGE negatives working against you should you be in a position to want or need to sand on factory paint.<br />
<br />
<b>3.</b> Always use the least aggressive approach to get the job done<br />
<br />
<b>4.</b> Always do a Test Spot to a small section and make sure you can get 100% of your sanding marks out before sanding further.<br />
<br />
<b>5.</b> Only sand enough to remove or improve the defects you're trying to remove<br />
<br />
<b>6.</b> Remember that sanding removes paint as does the compounding and polishing process, so take this into account as you science-out the project. <br />
<br />
<b>7.</b> If possible, use a Paint Thickness Gage to measure the film-build before sanding an note on a form the reading you take for before, during and after. A Paint Thickness Gauge is a handy tool to give you and indication as to overall paint thickness as well as any bodywork or re-paint that has been done to spot areas or entire panels. (Even an entire car although this articles is focused on factory paint)<br />
<br />
<b>8.</b> Don't sand too close to edges or hard/sharp body lines. It's easy to sand paint next to edges and hard/sharp body lines but it's harder to remove your sanding marks by machine in these areas without the risk of buffing on the actual edge or body line and risk burning through the paint. Usually paint is thinner on edges and body lines to start with so it's even riskier than in the middle of a flat horizontal panel. You can come back and remove your sanding marks by hand with a product like  <a href='http://www.autopia.org/forum/autolink.php?id=1059&amp;script=external&amp;forumid=178\\' target='_blank' class='gal' onmouseover='GAL_popup(this,"1", 0, "style=\"border: 1pt solid #000000;\"", "Meguiars No. 105 Ultra-Cut Compound is an ultra fast-cutting compound for rapid paint correction. It leaves a best-in-class finish that requires very little finishing work. Use No. 105 Ultra-Cut Compound to remove your vehicle`s worst imperfections quickly. Great for removing scratches, defects, acid rain and severe swirls/holograms.<br><br><a style=\"font-weight: bold\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-mirror-glaze-105-ultra-cut-compound.html\">LEARN MORE or BUY NOW!</a>", "style=\"background: #FFFFCC;padding: 2px;font-size: 10px;\"", "M105", "style=\"border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;background: #CCCCCC;padding: 1px;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;color: #000000;\"");' onmouseout='GAL_hidepopup();'>M105</a> or even Ultimate Compound as both of these products are aggressive enough and safe enough to pull sanding marks by hand.<br />
<br />
<b>9.</b> <b>Most important</b> - Always work clean. This includes your shop environment, the vehicle, your buffing pads, your tools, your polishing cloths, everything you have control over. <br />
</blockquote>In the below write-up I've included some tips for wet-sanding by hand and documented how much paint is being removed during each step. All the work is being done on the factory finish on a GM Hood so that its' a better comparison of apples to apples for those of you working on factory paint<br />
<br />
The good news is by using quality products and good technique and finishing out to #3000 grit &quot;Nikken Finishing Papers&quot; it was easy to remove 99.999% of the sanding marks with only one single tracer discovered.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Soak your papers at least 15 minutes before use.</b><br />
The Nikken Finishing papers have a latex rubber impregnated paper backing that is waterproof and this prevents the finishing paper from breaking-down into pulp from over soaking. I've personally soaked these paper in water for over 2 years with no visible sign of deterioration. (This was by accident as I lost a sealed Tupperware container filled with water and Nikken papers I used to take with me to demonstrations)<br />
<br />
It's possible for grit particles to enter into your water source so if you can, use Grit Guards in the bottom of your bucket.<br />
<br />
If you want to get really D.O., you can place your papers in dedicated buckets and also use dedicated backing pads for the different grits. The idea is to avoid instilling deeper scratches as you work upward to less aggressive products and to avoid any kind of abrasive particle trapped between your sandpaper and the finish to avoid Tracers.<br />
<br />
<b>Dedicated buckets for specific grits of paper. Grit Guard Inserts in the bottom of each bucket. </b><br />
(You could theoretically use 2, even 3 Grit Guard inserts in each bucket for even more protection)<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1002.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>I'll start with Nikken #2000 Grit Finishing Paper</b><br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1003.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>I'll remove the #2000 Grit Sanding Marks and replace them with #2500 Grit Sanding Marks</b><br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1004.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>I'll do my final passes using ultra fine #3000 Grit Nikken Finishing Papers</b> <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1005.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Add just a few drops of a quality car wash soap to help add lubricity to your water. If you're working on Fresh Paint and/or in a Body Shop, (Fresh Paint Environment), then you want to make sure you're using a body shop safe soap.</b><br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1006.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Add fresh, clean water. Also be sure to wash and rinse out your buckets before starting, everything must be surgically clean before placing your papers into the buckets.</b><br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1007.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>It's normal for your papers to roll up like this,</b><br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1008.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1009.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1010.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Mark you buckets so you can quickly and easily identify which buckets hold which papers.</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/772/WetSandingExperiment1011.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<i>To be continued...</i><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike Phillips</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Veteran's Day Special]]></title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125146-veteran-s-day-special.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:16:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/690/medium/news1257887332089.jpg 
 
Click here for more info (http://www.auto-geek.net/newsletters/News-11-11-09/AG-11-11-09.html)
 
 
Today is Veteran's Day. Everyone at Autogeek.net extends our warmest thanks to the men and women of our armed forces, both past and present, 
for your service and sacrifice.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/690/medium/news1257887332089.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.auto-geek.net/newsletters/News-11-11-09/AG-11-11-09.html" target="_blank">Click here for more info</a><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<i>Today is Veteran's Day. Everyone at Autogeek.net extends our warmest thanks to the men and women of our armed forces, both past and present, </i><br />
<i>for your service and sacrifice.</i></div>

]]></content:encoded>
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			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Video - Jay Leno's Piss'd Off Pete by the Blastolene Brothers!]]></title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125090-video-jay-leno-s-piss-d-off-pete-blastolene-brothers.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 12:21:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*Video - Jay Leno's Piss'd Off Pete by the Blastolene Brothers!* (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/21650-video-jay-leno-s-pissed-off-pete-blastolene-brothers.html)

Towards the end of the SEMA 2009 Show I was walking around getting a few last pictures of any cars I missed and came across the guy in charge of Piss'd Off Pete getting ready to rev up the engine so I took this short video of the engine running and then walked around the truck and shot some video of the truck itself.

Turn up your speakers and watch to see the entire truck rocking back and forth every time he revs up the engine. Also watch for this guy to to a little dance afterwards.

Pretty cool... Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/xyxthumbs.gif 



YouTube - Jay Lenos 1960 Peterbuilt Hotrod Truck... (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOVJG1DgwJs) 


*Piss'd Off Pete*
This is Jay Leno's 1960 chopped Peterbilt with a 852ci two-stroke Detroit Diesel twin-supercharged V12 mated to an Allison 4-speed automatic transmission from a Greyhound bus. The engine produces 500 horsepower and nearly 1000 lb-ft torque with a redline of just 2,800 rpm. Built by the Blastolene Brothers.


Here's a few still shots I snapped...

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3634.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3635.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3636.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3638.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3641.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3643.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3644.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3645.JPG 

Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3646.JPG 


Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><a href="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/21650-video-jay-leno-s-pissed-off-pete-blastolene-brothers.html" target="_blank"><font color="blue"><b>Video - Jay Leno's Piss'd Off Pete by the Blastolene Brothers!</b></font></a><br />
<br />
Towards the end of the SEMA 2009 Show I was walking around getting a few last pictures of any cars I missed and came across the guy in charge of Piss'd Off Pete getting ready to rev up the engine so I took this short video of the engine running and then walked around the truck and shot some video of the truck itself.<br />
<br />
Turn up your speakers and watch to see the entire truck rocking back and forth every time he revs up the engine. Also watch for this guy to to a little dance afterwards.<br />
<br />
Pretty cool... <img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/xyxthumbs.gif" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOVJG1DgwJs" target="_blank">YouTube - Jay Lenos 1960 Peterbuilt Hotrod Truck...</a> </div><br />
<br />
<b>Piss'd Off Pete</b><br />
This is Jay Leno's 1960 chopped Peterbilt with a 852ci two-stroke Detroit Diesel twin-supercharged V12 mated to an Allison 4-speed automatic transmission from a Greyhound bus. The engine produces 500 horsepower and nearly 1000 lb-ft torque with a redline of just 2,800 rpm. Built by the Blastolene Brothers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Here's a few still shots I snapped...<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3634.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3635.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3636.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3638.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3641.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3643.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3644.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3645.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/779/IMG_3646.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
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			<dc:creator>Mike Phillips</dc:creator>
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			<title>My take on SEMA 2009 - Swirls vs No Swirls</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125060-my-take-sema-2009-swirls-vs-no-swirls.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 18:41:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*My take on SEMA 2009 - Swirls vs No Swirls* 
 
I don't know how many pictures I took in total but quite a few, in most cases I would take a moment to inspect for swirls while near each car.
 
I purposefully didn't take pictures of cars with swirls as the focus of the photos was to showcase the great cars at SEMA not any of their downfalls.  Overall I was impressed with the quality of finishes at SEMA this year in that while not all cars were perfect, to my eyes a greater majority of cars were in *very good condition* versus *horribly swirled-out condition*.
 
Did I find swirled-out paint jobs? Sure. But I chose not to capture the swirls with pictures but instead focus on the *big picture* showcasing the cool factor of each car.
 
 
I'd like to think that *detailing discussion forums* are having an ever increasing positive effect as they serve to educate the serious online enthusiasts in this industry and then online enthusiasts share what they learn with their non-online friends.
 
Just my take after photographing and inspecting hundreds and hundreds of cars... 
 
 
*On the topic of swirls*
On the way to the hotel a *bus* passed us while we were taking a Taxi to the Venetian and I was able to capture a few photos of the horrendous swirls in the finish while it drove by...
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3412.JPG 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3413.JPG 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3414.JPG 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3416.JPG 
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3417.JPG 
 
 
 
Keep in mind it was moving pretty quickly as it drove by us so the last picture is a little blurry but you get the idea....
 
 
Where's Superior Shine, he's done a few Extreme Makeovers on buses...
 
Image: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>My take on SEMA 2009 - Swirls vs No Swirls</b> <br />
 <br />
I don't know how many pictures I took in total but quite a few, in most cases I would take a moment to inspect for swirls while near each car.<br />
 <br />
I purposefully didn't take pictures of cars with swirls as the focus of the photos was to showcase the great cars at SEMA not any of their downfalls.  Overall I was impressed with the quality of finishes at SEMA this year in that while not all cars were perfect, to my eyes a greater majority of cars were in <b><i>very good condition</i></b> versus <b><i>horribly swirled-out condition</i></b>.<br />
 <br />
Did I find swirled-out paint jobs? Sure. But I chose not to capture the swirls with pictures but instead focus on the <b><i>big picture</i></b> showcasing the cool factor of each car.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
I'd like to think that <b><i>detailing discussion forums</i></b> are having an ever increasing positive effect as they serve to educate the serious online enthusiasts in this industry and then online enthusiasts share what they learn with their non-online friends.<br />
 <br />
Just my take after photographing and inspecting hundreds and hundreds of cars... <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b>On the topic of swirls</b><br />
On the way to the hotel a <b>bus</b> passed us while we were taking a Taxi to the Venetian and I was able to capture a few photos of the horrendous swirls in the finish while it drove by...<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3412.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3413.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3414.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3416.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/776/IMG_3417.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
Keep in mind it was moving pretty quickly as it drove by us so the last picture is a little blurry but you get the idea....<br />
 <br />
 <br />
Where's Superior Shine, he's done a few Extreme Makeovers on buses...<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/">Autogeek.net</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike Phillips</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125060-my-take-sema-2009-swirls-vs-no-swirls.html</guid>
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			<title>DP line is on sale!</title>
			<link>http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/125010-dp-line-sale.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 16:26:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This is a great time to check out the DP line if you haven't already! 
 
Image: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2079_38176067 
Max Wax at $19.99 and my favorite Final Gloss Quick Detailer $12.99
 
DP American Made Car Care Products (http://www.autogeek.net/detailers-pride.html)

Limited Time Sale, so grab the great deals while you can!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This is a great time to check out the DP line if you haven't already! <br />
 <br />
<img src="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2079_38176067" border="0" alt="" /><br />
Max Wax at $19.99 and my favorite Final Gloss Quick Detailer $12.99<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.autogeek.net/detailers-pride.html" target="_blank">DP American Made Car Care Products</a><br />
<br />
Limited Time Sale, so grab the great deals while you can!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
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			<dc:creator>Meghan@Autogeek</dc:creator>
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