Pad suggestions

ZeusCGP · 02-10-07, 10:23

Went to a road course class last year at Pocono Raceway. Had a blast, but my stock 10.9" front rotors were not up to the task. The night before the day I had put on new Hawk HPS pads (new brake fluid the week before). By the end of the day they were literally cooked.
This year (aside from fabricating brake cooling ducts and upgrading to 11.9" rotors) I want to choose a better pad. What do you guys recommend?
I was looking at the HPS+ but since they are only '1 level' up I'm worried about burning through those too. With the race pad choices, the Blue 9012 looks good.
I was also looking at the EBC yellow pad, but I'm not sure how they would stand up. The blue looks interesting, but I don't know if that would be too aggressive. I'm not concerned with rotor wear as I would replace the rotor after the track day (or 2 day, not sure which I will do).

Sweden · 02-13-07, 06:47

Have you tried EBC redstuff? i think people from the racing track uses redstuff though aggressive to the rotors.

BigJimZ28 · 02-13-07, 07:02

I think part of the problem is that you did not break-in (bed-in) the pads

here is a little info:
Hawk Performance: Frequently Asked Questions of Motorsports Brake Pads

and a quote from it:
" Proper break-in will assure that small amounts of heat are introduced to the brake pad. Brake pads that are brought up to temperature too fast and not properly allowed to cool down may quickly become glazed and not perform as originally intended. The pads' rubbing surface reaches extreme heat levels during racing use. The surface needs slow temperature increases to help prepare the pad. Large amounts of heat all at one time can cause the brake pad rubbing surface to become somewhat liquefied and coat the pad surface with a glaze. This will dramatically reduce stopping performance as certain ingredients in the friction compound break down and cause glazing of the rubbing surface of the brake pad. "

Devilsown · 02-13-07, 07:19

I would get some POWERSTOP SLOTTED (NOT! crossdrilled for they are prone to cracking) and get some EBC RED STUFF or Yellows in the front as your car is heavy compared to mine, and some greens or reds in the rear. I used reds in the front and greens on the rear of my 93 rx7 with some slotted rotors and I LOVE IT no brake fade from 160-0mph I also have Stainless steel lines all the way around to include the clutch.

EBC Brakes Automotive

Danase · 02-14-07, 05:23

I would never use EBC. Never had any good experience with them and if you look on the web you will see a lot of instances where they fail. I think your problem is just using the stock equipment for racing. Honestly, I would upgrade my entire brake system starting with a good system from Brembo or something. Just upgrading the bigger rotors isn't going to do much. You want to go with bigger rotors, calipers, and pads for sure.

Mr_Elusive · 02-14-07, 05:31

Did you just buy the bracket and upgrade to 11.9" rotors? Or did you do the F-body upgrade?

ZeusCGP · 02-14-07, 07:16

I broke the pads in the day I put them in following those instructions.

I'm not worried about a high speed to low speed breaking, I'm worried about constant high to low breaking.

I just did the bracket and rotor. I'm still kicking myself for not doing the fbody. I have to double check to see if if the bracket is the same for the 11.9" as the fbody, cause if that is the case then I'll just need the fbody calipers.

Yal · 02-14-07, 07:35

I to have not had a good experience with EBC. They say they have changed their formulas but I don't believe it.

Try www.Porterfield-brakes.com (sales@porterfield-brakes.com) Carbon Kevlar pads, they are a little on the expensive side but you can abuse them on the track to no end

BigJimZ28 · 02-14-07, 04:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeusCGP

I broke the pads in the day I put them in following those instructions.

I find it 's best to put them through several heat/cooling cycles
before beating on them too bad

I also did not have good luck with the EBC green stuff pads

I like the HPS+ but my car is more of a drag car and a road course is totally different

is that "normal" for the pad /rotor to be that dead after the course?

sorry I can't be more help