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Originally Posted by SeaFoam Please Stop and re-read the product container, then I will walk you through the 3 systems Sea Foam is designed to treat.
It's really simple, so don't get all revved up and think this is too technical. All this info is really on the CD, DVD or VHS.
FUEL
1st, put one ounce per gallon of fuel into the tank. Sea Foam mixes instantly with your fuel BECAUSE SEA FOAM is OIL! This is for cleaning the fuel system, carb and injectors included, AS YOU DRIVE! This is also for cleaning carbon out of your upper cylinders the simple way, AS YOU DRIVE! This is also for getting rid of any fuel system moisture, adding a MI-NUTE amount of lubrication to your fuel for fuel pumps, injectors and valve stem/upper cylinders, and stabilizing your fuel.
OIL
2nd, how long till your next oil change? About 30 to 100 miles before your next LOF service, put 1/3 can of product (about 1 1/2 ounces for each quart of engine oil capacity) into the crankcase oil of your vehicle and DRIVE IT THAT LAST 30 to 100 MILES, then do your oil change service. Why? Because Sea Foam is a HIGH DETERGENT OIL for residue cleaning. Sea Foam will make your oil get dirty as it cleans old oil residue back into liquid, allowing that now contaminated with dirt old oil to be filtered, BUT IT IS GOING TO MAKE YOUR OIL GET DIRTY!
Should you decide to use Sea Foam in your oil as an after service additive, please set up a schedule by either time or mileage to check your oil color and clarity, so you can determine WHEN an oil service is necessary. Chances are it WILL be before your normal scheduled oil change! Any thing you read that tells you "NOT TO DRIVE" is INCORRECT, Sea Foam is OIL!! Sea Foam is also used as an after service additive in the crankcase oil to clean and keep residue from building up. NEVER DO THAT WITH ANY CHEMICAL PRODUCT as most (but not Sea Foam) CHEMICALS will affect the way the oil lubricates.
UPPER CYLINDERS (on the can "when used through Injection or...... ")
This is the TRAINED PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC way. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CLEAN THE UPPER CYLINDERS THIS WAY IF YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS UNDER "FUEL", the cylinders will get clean as you drive a tank or two of fuel with one ounce Sea Foam to each gallon of gasoline. This is assuming you have any carbon that needs cleaning, MOST DO!
So, if you are NOT mechanically inclined, or misunderstood the can instructions, YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THIS IF YOU PUT SEA FOAM IN THE FUEL TANK!
However, if you feel you can choose a vacuum source to your intake manifold which will FEED ALL CYLINDERS, we list the PCV and Brake Booster lines only as "POSSIBLE sources", they are not correct on all engines. If you choose the wrong vacuum source to introduce carbon cleaning liquid, ( that being one that doesn't feed the engine at all, some Fords, one that may only feed a few cylinders Honda, Toyota, Nissan, most V-6 Foreign engines and some 4 cylinder engines of all makes, or anything with an "exotic" induction system, turbo, super, vortec, others), you could wind up not cleaning, cleaning only a couple cylinders, or hydrolocking the engine, that's breaking stuff!
If you decide, after I've warned you that you should be a "NINJA MASTER" of your induction system, get the engine to operating temperature, at idle, choose your "Picked" vacuum source, hold that source VERTICAL, with sucking air pointed up, use your thumb or finger to block part of the suck to bring the RPM's down to as low an idle as possible, open the product container and SLOWLY POUR Sea Foam into that pointing-up sucking line SLOWLY.
After you get 1/3 can (about 5 1/2 ounces) into your engine at IDLE, by POURING IT, and you have LOTS of SMOKE rolling out your exhaust, DO NOT REV IT UP TO CLEAR THE SMOKE instead have someone KEY OFF the vehicle, let it sit 5 to 10 minutes minimum, then re-start the engine (it may be a hard start because you just doused the cylinders/spark plugs with oil based carbon cleaner) Take the vehicle out for an aggressive drive (do not break any vehicle laws for your community). When the smoke is gone, so is the majority of your carbon, assuming you did things right.
If the check engine light comes on, it is because your computer picked up a mis-fire or does not understand what you just did. Normal key cycles, heating/cooling cycles or check engine lite re-setting procedures will shut off the light.
If you want to use one can to "DO IT ALL", 1/3 in the oil will do about 4 1/2 quarts of oil, 1/3 in the fuel will do about 6 to 8 gallons of fuel, 1/3 into the induction system will clean most carbon out of most engines 4 - 6 - or 8 cylinders, if done correctly.
Hope this helps! |
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