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Old 02-09-06, 06:58   #25 (permalink)
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Is that anti seize compound? I'm dying for a lift at this point to do all of that!
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Old 02-09-06, 07:15   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill D
Is that anti seize compound? I'm dying for a lift at this point to do all of that!

i hate promoting actual products but have u looked at kwiklift. their products are pretty expensive because you can get a 2 or 4 post for bendpak for bout the same however most ppl, including myselt, dont have adequate clearance in the garage. this products looks promising, a bit pricy. i do know that when i get around to restoring the 80 camaro, i will be using a lift, i have never used this product so i cant review it
 
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Old 02-09-06, 07:19   #27 (permalink)
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I'm going to find out what kind of lift a guy I know plans on installing, and then do my best to use his as long as possible

In the meantime, I plan on seeking out some power steering fluid to change the old with this weekend.
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Old 02-09-06, 07:38   #28 (permalink)
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Bill, pipe "dope" is a sealer used to fill the microscopic inconsistencies in tapered pipe threads. In the old days (and still) it was a viscous liquid that would harden (to differing degrees, think of the different types of Permatex, if that means anything to you). Another pipe dope is teflon tape, which you wrap around the threads.

You don't need a lift, but you need jack stands. On the GM cars I have taken the plugs out on (I think only the 90 and 60* V-6's, although I might have done an 8), it really does save a lot of flushing, especially if you don't want to take the thermostat out. When cars get older, it seems like you are always changing something in the cooling system (hoses, water pump, thermostat) so it always seemed to me to be less critical to pull the plugs.

Oh, one piece of advice, on one of the cars I did, the starter positive cable connection was right in the swing arc of the wrench for the plug, so it might be prudent to disconnect that cable from the battery. Ask me how I know!
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Old 02-09-06, 07:47   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchetty
i hate promoting actual products but have u looked at kwiklift.
j, isn't that basically a glorifed set of ramps? The thing I don't like about that is you can't really get your wheels off (if you read it, you need to put a separate jack between the kwiklift and the car...so you might as well just do it from the floor).

There is this low rise lift: http://www.rotarylift.com/Products/P...pplication.asp which should be great for low ceilings and getting your wheels off, but I'm not sure about clearance to get to the engine/trans, especially for RWD vehicles. Maybe Accumulator will tell us what he has in his garage for a lift.
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Old 02-09-06, 08:27   #30 (permalink)
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Rotary =
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Old 02-09-06, 08:33   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
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when the technician was driving my car, he noticed that the windshield wipers needed to be replaced (it was a completely dry, sunny summer day, and of course the wipers were fine anyway). I just looked at the guy and said "You're kidding, right? I come in here for brakes and you're trying to sell me windshield wipers? Do people really fall for that? No, I don't want windshield wipers."

On the service records for my Protege, there is a receipt including windshield wiper replacement, which was over $20 each! And I can assure you, these were not high-quality, expensive blades! I wonder if the previous owner realized that you could buy those blades and install them yourself for 10 bucks and 5 minutes.
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Old 02-09-06, 09:25   #32 (permalink)
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Oh...and I generally try to stick to the standard drain interval even when using Mobil 1, both for warranty purposes, and because I look at it as an extra insurance policy...I don't put a lot of miles on my cars, so the extra cost isn't a huge amount of dollars for the added peace of mind.
Setec: What drain intervals do you follow? I believe our manual says every 5k miles/6 months under "Severe" driving conditions and 10k miles/1 year for "Normal" driving conditions. I put at most 40 miles on my car each week, so i'm going to follow the time intervals. Probably only once a year I'll do a oil change, which I plan on converting over to Amsoil come spring. Seems like way to many people on CRSX have had oil consumption issues with Mobil 1 on the RSX. I believe they blamed it on it being thinner than other synthetics, or something like that?
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Old 02-09-06, 09:43   #33 (permalink)
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Johnny, I was making a general statement on Mobil 1, which I have used on a lot of cars for a lot of years. As far as my RSX, I changed the oil the first time at 1000 miles, and I intend on changing it again at 5K, and every 5K after that. I haven't had any oil consumption problems yet...which reminds me, I should check the level...
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Old 02-09-06, 09:52   #34 (permalink)
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Instead of just changing the oil at X miles, why not arrange for some oil analysis and take away the guesswork
 
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Old 02-09-06, 10:25   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Eh, I use Mobil One Synthetic in my car and still change it every 3000-3500 miles. That stuff is pretty dark when I take it out and I would not want to drive with the old oil for much longer than that.

Agreed, I wouldnt let it go much further either
 
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Old 02-09-06, 10:34   #36 (permalink)
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How do you get an oil analysis?
 
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