BREMBO upgrade feedback/opinions...

Jake11375 · 08-13-03, 11:44

I've been thinking about upgrading my rotors and wanted to get some feedback from some Autopians that may have some experience with these types of brakes. I'm a fairly aggressive driver so I thought I'd look at something a little more performance oriented. Here are the rotors I'm looking at getting. Keeping the stock size on the calipers and pads, brake kits are a little too pricey.

Brembo

A few concerns:
(A) Will stopping power increase with OEM sized pads
(B) Any problems with noise, squeaking, squealing, etc,
(C) Smooth braking?
(D) Longevity

TIA for any feedback!

gnahc79 · 08-13-03, 11:55

tires stop the car, upgrading the brakes don't help much. There's an article here that explains everything.
Anyways, I would opt for just the slotted rotors to avoid any possibilty of warping with the cross-drilled.

2wheelsx2 · 08-13-03, 12:02

Good point, gnahc. However, not entirely true. If your brakes aren't good enough to exploit the grip of the tires, and have poor feel, then your limitation is your brakes. Witness radial calipers, giant cross-drilled rotors, high boiling point brake fluid, etc, etc, for motorcycling racing applications. I have not tracked my car, but I track my bikes regularly, and I can tell you that my limitation in braking is not my brakes, nor my tires, it's my b*lls!

Seriously though, good brakes with good feel really make a difference. That's why most modern cars have four wheel disc breaks, and not drum brakes.

Jake11375 · 08-13-03, 12:21

Very informative article gnac, thanks. So it looks like I'll be looking for slotted rotors instead. I had a set of rotors that developed black spots on them from heavy braking. I went a "little" easier on the next set. So it seems slotted rotors will help resist this kind of wear, right? If the drilled rotors will increase any likelyhood of cracking, I'll definitely want to avoid that.

bet993 · 08-13-03, 01:32

The black spots that develop on rotors are usually from the transfer of brake pad material. Here is a great article about the myths of “warped rotors” (and about the importance of bedding in new pads and seasoning new rotors.) ARTICLE It also talks about the common reasons for pad material being deposited on rotors and some ways to avoid it.

I would do some more research on brakes and braking systems before jumping in and getting different rotors. However, if you end up getting new rotors get new pads at the same time. The older pads will be worn to match the wear patterns of your old rotors and may result in uneven contract point on the new rotors which can “pulsing” and/or uneven wear patterns on the new rotors.

You really should determine with it is you dislike about the factory system. Honda usually does a good job of matching its brakes for the car. Bigger rotors will mean more unsprung weight and additional rotational mass. These increases can effect handling and/or acceleration.

The importance of making sure everything is working properly is also important. When was the last time your brake fluid was changed? Old worn out fluid can lead to brake fade and poor brake feel.

SickOfItAll · 08-13-03, 01:33

Quote:

Originally posted by Jake11375
Very informative article gnac, thanks. So it looks like I'll be looking for slotted rotors instead. I had a set of rotors that developed black spots on them from heavy braking. I went a "little" easier on the next set. So it seems slotted rotors will help resist this kind of wear, right? If the drilled rotors will increase any likelyhood of cracking, I'll definitely want to avoid that.

I doubt slotted rotors will provide you with any real performance benefit - glazing pads like they talk about isn't something you're likely to see on a street car. Those black spots on your previous rotors - were they cheap rotors? It could have been impurities in the rotors that were causing that.

Invest in a good set of pads, some good solid rotors, some stainless lines, new fluid, and some good tires - then if your brakes still aren't performing how you want them to, go from there. There's a *HUGE* difference between an aggressive driver and a track driver - if the above suggestions aren't good enough, then quite honestly, you're probably driving too hard on the street.

gnahc79 · 08-13-03, 01:53

agreed. IMO the OEM brake system is fine for street, even if you swap in performance tires. Aftermarket rotors, lines, etc. are for appearances for the most part. All of this changes if you hop onto the track, of course.

Hmm, gotta check the brakes on my bike sometime....no track days for me just yet :P.

2wheelsx2 · 08-13-03, 01:59

I also think most OEM systems are good enough for the street, even with performance tires. Most brakes performance problems I have seen on the street are related to improperly bedded bads, air line the lines, or old brake fluid.

Check that that master cylinder's fluid is not dark in colour, if so, change the fluid, and do a good bleeding. While you're at it, you might want to swap out for a more aggressive set of pads, and then if you're still unhappy with the performance, than go with the brake systems route, as most people have suggested so far.

SickOfItAll · 08-13-03, 02:38

Quote:

Originally posted by 2wheelsx2
I also think most OEM systems are good enough for the street, even with performance tires. Most brakes performance problems I have seen on the street are related to improperly bedded bads, air line the lines, or old brake fluid.

Check that that master cylinder's fluid is not dark in colour, if so, change the fluid, and do a good bleeding. While you're at it, you might want to swap out for a more aggressive set of pads, and then if you're still unhappy with the performance, than go with the brake systems route, as most people have suggested so far.

Again - with fresh fluid, good pads, and good tires, he should be happy with it for street driving - if that's inadequate for your driving on the street, IMHO, you're probably driving too hard.

Jake11375 · 08-13-03, 02:54

I'm definitely gettting a new set of pads. I usually go with Raybestos quiet stop. I'm not actually upsizing the diameter of the rotors just going with the slotted option. Not really looking for performance just mainly trying to keep from warping, marking the rotors so quickly. I want to keep everything fairly simple and inexpensive. I had my last pads, calipers, and rotors installed by Jackie Cooper Electronics. Being just over a year ago and the present condition of the rotors perhaps they didn't bleed them properly, like Bet993 suggested. I've driven harder on previous sets of pads and rotors without the black spots or warping.

SickOfItAll · 08-13-03, 03:09

Well, a few suggestions:

First off, if you want a noticeably stronger brake pad, try some Hawk HPs - a lot of people I know use those with what they consider favorable results

Second, slotted rotors won't help with the black spots, nor will they help with warping. Unless they're the same price or cheaper, I wouldn't bother.

Third, bleeding the brakes has nothing to do with rotor wear - brake fluid will change the feel of the pedal more than anything else.

Fourth, why new calipers? That's not something you should need to replace. Even rotors should be able to be turned if necessary - and if you do brake jobs a little prematurely, they shouldn't even need that. I've only had to have 1 rotor turned EVER, and that's because that caliper stuck for awhile before I noticed it, and chewed through the pad in just a couple thousand miles. New rotors aren't usually necessary.

Jake11375 · 08-13-03, 08:26

Sickofitall I may try those HPs. Thanks for the suggestion.

You say slotted rotors won't help in resisting warping etc. What exactly are the slots for? I'm not too hip on aftermarket upgrades at all. In fact, this will be my first stray from OEM parts performance wise besides my wheels and tires.

I got new calipers becuase they put them back on wrong and had to basically give me a whole new braking system for a little of nothing. I went in for new pads on the front and ending up getting, pads (2 sets), calipers, rotors (2 sets), and rear drum assembly. I had to go back about five times becuase of squealing, uneven braking, and quick warping, (like 2 days) So I paid like $175 for over $400 worth of work. I won't be going back there to say the least.