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12-04-05, 03:00
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#1 (permalink)
| | Registered User
kthan is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 6 | Help me to choose the right detailing products First of all, thank you very much for your help to find a car wash solution for my new Honda Odyssey. I ordered QEW and it is on the way to me.
Based on the the forum search and recommendations, I preliminarily set my detailing process: 1. QEW (with quick detailer) or separate quick detail after QEW 2. Clay 3. Polish 4. Wax or Sealant 5. Tire & Wheel 6. Interior & Glass.
For your reference, my car has Silver Pearl Metalic exterior, Gray interior (with black dashboard).
I would like to ask you to recoomend the right product in each category (other than QEW). Here is my preferences:
A. Easiest to use (I did not even wash my car of myself, yet)
B. Least possibility to damage car (when misuse/mis application)
C. Quicker time to finish the job (I might quit detailing if it took a lot of time...I need to see "wow result" with minimal time at first)
D. Performance (this could be top priority once I got used to detailing..).
E. Easier to get
Given the preferences, I have some questions and possible candidates in each category.
1. Some use QEW with QD, but others use them separately. What would you recommend? I perfer to mix it (because of time saving). Also, do I need to use QD everytime I wash the car? May I use QEW with glasses? (then, do I need to use Glass cleaner or not necessarily?)
2. For Clay: Which one is easier: Bar or liquid? What brand would you recommend (Sonus, DP, or else)? How often do I need to use? Do I need to clay as soon as possible, or I can do it when weather gets better(in spring)?
3. For Polish: Klasse all in one (with SG?), Wolfgang, Poorboy, Optimum car polish
4. Wax or Sealant? Again Klasses, Wolfgang, Poorboy, Optimum car wax? How often I need to use polish/wax/sealant?
5. Which wheel & tire cleaner? Which tool (brush) would you recommend?
6. Which interior (dash/carpet/leather) & Glass? DP total interior, Stoner invisible for glass?
7. Which MF towel for dry (Do I need three big MF...for wash, polish, wax/sealant?) Wash mitt (sheep mitt) or towel (terry cloth? or else)?
Where can I buy these products at a good price? I think ordering from one store can save the shipping. Sorry for long questions, and thank you for your help in advance. | |
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12-04-05, 03:44
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#2 (permalink)
| | Registered User
JBM is offline
Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Florida Posts: 1,626 | Of coarse everyone wants things that are going to produce great results, and are easy to use.
The truth is though, that to have the biggest turn around in appearance, you will need to polish the car.
A product like ColorX is a very good OTC paint cleaner with alittle bit of wax in it. I would start there, or with AIO. Top either with Mother's reflections, NXT tech Wax, Liquid Glass or any other sealant. I am sure this will give a very nice look, last 2 or 3 months, as long as it is washed frequently with a soap that wont strip off the wax.
If you are in Walmart pick up a pack of the Meguiar's Even Coat Applicator. It is a pretty nice product for paint cleaning as well as applying a wax or sealant.
While you are in the wax section, grab a lambswool wash mitt, there not bad actually, and only 5 bucks.
Glass- NXT Glass, or Stoners Invisible Glass
Tire and wheel cleaner- Simply Green diluted, or Purple Power diluted, or Eagle 1 A2Z wheel cleaner. Might be a good idea to pick up Megs wheel brush from Walmart also, its pretty good.
Interior is pretty simple. If its really gross, then wash it with some warm water and maybe some Woolite or something, im not sure-mine is never gross. But for normal general cleaning, i use either the Amor All Ultimate Clean product, or Meguiar's Quick Interior product. Then i dress it again with some V$R.
You can pretty much get quality products from Auto Zone, Pep Boys or Walmart, if you know what to get.
The only things that i would say you must absolutly get on the internet is buffing pads and Microfiber towels.
The trush of the matter is, most everyone here suffers from OCD and has stockpiles of wax';s and dressings and stuff, we cant help it  | |
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12-04-05, 03:47
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#3 (permalink)
| | Kayak detailer
White95Max is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stevens Point, WI Posts: 6,885 | I use QEW and QD together, because it saves time by doing two steps at once. You don't have to QD any more than you want to. I do it because it adds a nice gloss and slickness to the paint/glass/etc...
Can you wash your glasses with QEW...I don't know. I would imagine that it would be fine, but I can't say for sure. I've used S&G and a MF to clean my glasses though and it worked great.
I have used several clay bars (Mothers, Sonus, Shining Monkey) and they have all been about the same to me. Neither one was clearly easier to use or anything. I am anxious to try my recently-acquired Sonus Ultra-Fine Clay though.
For the rest of your questions, my answers are these: All-In-One Wolfgang sealant
Wheel Cleaner - P21s. Be aware that once you clean your wheels well, you can apply AIO and WG sealant to them, and you'll never need to use a wheel cleaner again. The leftover car wash soap from your bucket will work fine. Tire cleaner...I'd recommend Meg's APC or Mother's Tire/Rubber Cleaner. I like the Meg's Versa-Angle tire/wheel brushes.
I prefer PB's Natural Look or Sonus Total Eclipse for vinyl/plastic. For leather, I like either 1Z Lederpflege or Pinnacle leather cleaner/conditioner.
Most of the above-mentioned products are available at http://www.autopia-carcare.com or http://www.autogeek.net Some of the products are carried by both vendors.
I would recommend that you pick up 10 MFs or more. My preferred towels are the blue or yellow Supremes from http://www.exceldetail.com . While you're there, I'd pick up a sheepskin mitt and a couple Monterey WW towels.
__________________ Paul...
'99 Mazda Protege LX 5spd, highlight silver - AIO/UPP/UPPSx3/#16
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12-04-05, 03:50
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#4 (permalink)
| | Registered User
kb798 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 99 | Congratulations on your new car, and although I won't be able to answer all your specific questions on certain products, hopefully I can guide you in the right direction. It would be safe to say that almost all the products out there on the market, both consumer and professional based, will not damage your car. Rather, it is the misuse of the products caused by the user that leads to creating damages to the surface of your car.
Things such as using and reusing dirty pads, applicators, towels and etc can only be detrimental to what you're trying to achieve, and it takes a meticulous eye, dedication, and regimen to really bring out the shine in your car. No one wants to spend hours and hours of detailing that leads to no where, so I understand that efficiency is one of your top priorities. However, a rushed job is a botched job. Take the time to use the right techniques on your car first, and it will yield a longer-lasting surface of your brand new car rather than starting off on a bad foot. Over time, you'll find yourself detailing the car at a quicker pace so know that speed comes from experience.
To answer some of your questions on the products, I've used QEW with and without a QD, and I've definitely noticed a difference between the two. The QD really does add lubricity to the solution, and it helps to not marr the paint as much. As for MF towels for drying or even polishing, you can never have too much. I like to use waffle weave towels for drying, and any high-quality MF towels for buffing after polishing.
Hope that helps  | |
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12-05-05, 09:23
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#5 (permalink)
| | Registered User
kthan is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 6 | Thank you very much for suggestions. I have couple more questions.
First, regarding polish, wax & sealant, what would be the best way to do the process? Use it Klasse all-in-one with Klasse S&G (mix it and apply it once?) or other wax/sealant (please recommend a good match)? Or, just do it separately (polish --> wax --> sealant)? Do I need to choose either wax or sealant?
Second, I knew it would be good to use MicroFiber towel for drying, polishing, buffing off. What about washing and mid-process rinse? Do I still need MF or just plush cloth towel (or cloth diaper) for that? Some use wash mitt (like sheep mit) for initial washing. I don't know which way would get best result?
Third, the total process would be wash/dry --> clay --> wash (rinse) --> polish --> wax/sealant. Correct me if I am not in the right direction. Also, how many coats (I heard max 3 coats) of wax/sealant would be good? Do I need to do multiple coats application at once, or over the period (some days, a week, or longer interval)? Thanks. | |
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12-05-05, 09:37
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#6 (permalink)
| | Kayak detailer
White95Max is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stevens Point, WI Posts: 6,885 | Use AIO and SG separately for best results. You can use waxes and sealants together, but make sure to apply the sealant first. If you want to apply several layers of a sealant, you must do that before you apply the wax. Sealants will not bond properly over waxes.
Sheepskin mitts are great for washing. To dry the car, get a waffle weave towel or two.
Yes that process you listed is correct.
The consensus is typically to wait 24hrs between coats of any wax or sealant. The exception is Zaino's claim that you can layer Z2 back-to-back if you mix it with ZFX first. The number of layers that you put on is all up to you. More layers = more protection. There is a "the point of diminishing returns" though. If you notice my sig, I have AIO, then 2 layers of sealant, and then wax. I add a new coat of wax every month if possible, and I consider this process plenty of protection for the winter.
__________________ Paul...
'99 Mazda Protege LX 5spd, highlight silver - AIO/UPP/UPPSx3/#16
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12-05-05, 09:38
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#7 (permalink)
| | One Shiny tC
Neothin is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Port St. Lucie FL Posts: 1,746 | Klasse AIO should be applied and then buffed out. Then SG should be applied and buffed off. Do not mix the two products. ever. after you apply SG (remember, you can layer SG a couple of times for better durability) you can then top with a wax. the process should be polish/sealant/wax. Sealants dont like bonding to waxes, so they always come up first in the lineup.
I use MF's for everything but washing. Product removal, drying, QDing, etc are all done with an MF. I use sheepskin wash mitts when washing.
wash-rinse-clay-rinse-dry-polish-seal-wax instead of drying after the first wash, you can actually spray QD onto the wet surface and clay with that. SG can be layered 1-3 times but some people do more layers. The wax that you put on top should be reapplied depending on it durability. Low durability waxes like souveran need to be applied every month, but others like #16, collinite, etc can go months w/o reapplication needed.
__________________ 2006 Nautical Blue Metallic Scion tC
Mods can be found HERE
AIO-RMG-Souveran
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12-05-05, 10:00
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#8 (permalink)
| | Wax Sniffer
zippymbr is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NC Posts: 978 | We have two Odyssey vans in out family. So I have alot of experience detailing them on a biweekly basis. The Menzerna family of polishes work wonderfully. FP would be my choice for a light polish and IP if you need some paint correction. I love to use AIO followed by OCW. This is the easiest thing I have ever done to the vans. Very quick, and the look is very wet and deep. We always get great complements. I just apply a new coat of OCW avery few weeks (4-8) and AIO a few times a year after I polish. | |
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12-09-05, 06:48
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#9 (permalink)
| | Registered User
kthan is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 6 | Some more questions:
1. Do I need to use both clay bar and clay lubricate (or either one)? Which one would be easier to apply? Sonus, DP, or else?
2. I am considering Klasse All-in-one and then SG. But, I was told that I need to apply SG really thin (I am little worried about "thin" application). Is there any better (easier to apply & matching with All-in-one)? Some people say Wolfgang sealant
3. Do I need either sealant or wax? Or both (or up to my preference)? If I need both, which wax would you recommend? I am thinking optimum car wax, but someone said it's hard to buff off.
4. Do I need separate tire and wheel cleaner? Also, I need (separate) tire and wheel polisher? I would go with P21 wheel cleaner, but not sure about tire cleaner/polisher.
5. Which applicator would you recommend for different detailing process (clay, polish, sealant, dry)? Pad, applicator, sponge? Please let me know any good tools for application. | |
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12-09-05, 07:25
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#10 (permalink)
| | Turtle Wax User
LouisanaJeeper is offline
Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,709 | 1. Do I need to use both clay bar and clay lubricate (or either one)? Which one would be easier to apply? Sonus, DP, or else?
BOTH
all pretty much the same. claymagic or mothers is the cheapest
2. I am considering Klasse All-in-one and then SG. But, I was told that I need to apply SG really thin (I am little worried about "thin" application). Is there any better (easier to apply & matching with All-in-one)? Some people say Wolfgang sealant
I hate applying SG.
WG is easier to apply, it will work with AIO
3. Do I need either sealant or wax? Or both (or up to my preference)? If I need both, which wax would you recommend? I am thinking optimum car wax, but someone said it's hard to buff off.
either one
poorboys nattys paste or S100 is a good paste wax and easy to use
AIO or wolfgang are sealants
4. Do I need separate tire and wheel cleaner? Also, I need (separate) tire and wheel polisher? I would go with P21 wheel cleaner, but not sure about tire cleaner/polisher.
NO, use car wash soap usually on both
eagle 1 AtoZ for real dirty wheels
finish the tires with armorall or similar
finish the wheels with the same wax/sealant as paint
5. Which applicator would you recommend for different detailing process (clay-none, polish- foam applicators, sealant-foam applicators, dry- microfiber
THIS SHOULD BE IN AUTOPIA UNIVERSITY
__________________
Black Mustang GT
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12-10-05, 11:23
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#11 (permalink)
| | Kayak detailer
White95Max is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stevens Point, WI Posts: 6,885 | Clay and clay lubricant are two different things. The clay won't work without a lubricant. You'll just scuff up your paint and leave sticky clay residue all over it, unless you use a lubricant.
Foam applicators are not very good for applying polishes or cleaners. Microfiber applicators allow for more "bite" when applying the product.
And I agree about using car soap on wheels and tires. I only use wheel cleaner twice a year when I switch wheels/tires. Otherwise it's all car soap. And same with tires. I use APC/water on my tires twice a year. The rest of the time I just use car soap + water. Works great as long as you have sealant on the wheels and protectant on the tires.
__________________ Paul...
'99 Mazda Protege LX 5spd, highlight silver - AIO/UPP/UPPSx3/#16
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