1st Time Klasse Experience - con't

maxshine · 11-26-01, 08:16

I prepared for my second coat of KSG by washing with Meg Gold Class Shampoo. While washing the car the wash pad just slid across the surface with ease - I don't recall even a just waxed surface washing like this. This seemed a little strange since the surface wasn't that slick (like after a wax) after the first coat of KSG.

I applied the KSG with a dry foam applicator - the first time I used a moistened w/QD MF pad. The foam pad would drag sometimes when a dry spot was hit - this was annoying. Even near the end it would still do this even though I tried to distribute the KSG evenly on the pad as I went. This time I allowed the KSG to 'cure' for 5 hours (60 degrees in a garage) - the first time was 1 hour. I then buffed out the residue with a MF towel. Again I couldn't quite get all the residue off so I lighlty dampened my MF towel and it all came off with no problem.

My concerns are still if I am loosing some protection by needing help (QD or moistened MF towel) to remove residues. Do I need longer cure times - if so this is a little ridiculous IMHO. I rained this weekend and the water seemed to sheet and bead - but it did run off easily once driving.

I plan to put on at least 2-3 more coats weather permitting (next time I will moisten a foam pad w/QD). Then I'll follow monthly with a after-wash QD with the Sonus Acrylic Spritz that came with my kit. I plan/hope for this to provide a year of protection and then I'll repeat the process starting next fall.

DETAILKING · 11-26-01, 08:32

Every coat of SG that I applied sheeted too. Actually to be honest, it did bead for a wash or two, but now it is sheeting. This makes me question durability, but then again, the gloss is still fantastic...

olivher · 11-26-01, 08:41

I maybe wrong, but isn't the "cure" time, the time after you have wiped off the dry SG? I'm just stating what I have learned from the archives. I remember reading to put on the SG, then let it "dry" for an hour or 2 hours, then wipe it off. Then it said to let the SG "cure" before putting on new layer of SG.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

DETAILKING · 11-26-01, 08:48

Dry time is the time it takes for the system to set up, so it can be buffed off easily and completely.

Cure time is the time it takes for the layer of sealant to cure before adding successive coats.

One theory is to let the product dry on the car for a long time before removing (a few hours). This way the sealant layer is almost fully cured when you go to buff it off. The theory of why this is better stems from 2 main reasons.....

1. The effect of water on the product crosslinking - If the sealant is almost fully cured the effect of using water or QD'er for residue removal will be minimal

2. The system gets a chance to harden up, so marring in the sealant layer from hard rubbing of towels during product removal is not present for a swirl free finish.

Again, this is just a theory....I don't think any of this has been proven........

maxshine · 11-26-01, 08:55

Good point Olivher. I'm hoping they're one-in-the-same. I say this because it should have dried and done all it will by then. That's why 'residue' is being wiped off. Bbut if it still 'hardens' (or cures) over the next week then just buffing off the residues could still potentially wipe some of the KSG - that you'd think would of remained.

As Detailking once wrote it's too bad a Klasse Rep. doesn't respond to some of the concerns stated on thgis forum.

JM19 · 11-26-01, 09:01

You have no need to question durability. Klasse lasts for a solid 4-6 months guaranteed. Sure, it may sheet, but do the math and figure about four to six months after you applied your last coat that you are going to need to apply more.

Steve9185 · 11-26-01, 09:23

Maxshine: I wouldn't moisten your applicator when you re-apply the KSG, IMHO, your going to be prolonging the dry time needed for it to dry, and if I recall correctly it says on the bottle to use a dry applicator anyway....

I usually let my KSG dry for about 20 minutes and it buffs out without much diffuculty. Then let it "cure" for a few days inder the sun and then apply another layer until i hit about 5 or so layers...

DETAILKING · 11-26-01, 10:05

muscle through removal with no aid of water or QD'er. It is a shame there is no KLASSE rep with the answers, but with the all the experienced users here and experimenting going on, I think we are starting to get some good info and knowledge on the product. Way to go!

Don2000g · 11-28-01, 08:00

I can certainly attest to the fact that Klasse offers awesome protection. Let there be no mistake about it. Lets not start any false rumors. Laters

neoprufrok · 12-01-01, 05:51

I've used Klasse for two years now on various cars.

As the OG detailer himself (that would be you Don) could attest to, I am a Klasse fanatic!

Great protection, a little hard to apply and remove. Definitely not as easy as Zaino.

BillNorth · 12-01-01, 07:39

Don, Richard, DK...

Do you think that the klasse haze some of us are experiencing could be attributed to the fact that we use water to aid in the removal of the product? I'm thinking that this might be the case. Water gets trapped in the SG before it's fully cured, and then a couple of days later after it has cured, a haze develops.

I dunno. Just thinking out loud. Next summer I'll muscle through the removal without water.

YoSteve · 12-01-01, 08:48

My car sheet/beads, and when it stops doing this (which will probably be around 8 months from now) so i won't see it most likely then I will rewax. But until then I won't need to do much maintainence other than PBS and some OGShO or maybe my Souveran.

BTW, sheet/beading allows for less waterspots

If you are unfamiliar with sheet beading, it's when water falls off when it has a place to go (like at certain inclines), and beads when it doesn't (like on the flat part of the roof or trunk). Only when beading (on flat surfaces) is entirely not there, is the protection totally gone.