Business Suits

phatphob · 06-25-05, 10:29

I'm getting two suits tailored in the near future, one business suit and one formal suit. I don't know much about suits, so I'm here to ask what characteristics make a good business suit? I'm definitely going to ask for high grade wool, but as for the style of the suit, I'm a bit clueless. I'm 5'9" and am skinny. I'm looking for more of a classic style (for both suits), hopefully something that is "timeless." Any suggestions for colors?

So far I am looking at a 3 button suit, with pleated and cuffed pants, and I'd like to have the top part of the jacket shifted higher to cover more of the front area (to hide more of the tie) because I think it would look cleaner for a skinny guy.

I'd appreciate any suggestions, and if you have any links to websites, please include them as well. Thanks

ZaneO · 06-26-05, 07:22

You should always have a blue suit and a black suit. As long as your tailor is decent the fit and look should be fine.

I wear 3-button, single-breasted suits because they fit and look better on my frame (I'm 6'4" and 205 lbs.).

Accumulator · 06-26-05, 08:40

I'd consider a two-button model too. See what really looks right on *you*. I know I look awful in a three-button (I'm 5' 10", 175). I go for gray or blue for business, standard black tux for formal. But unless you're gonna wear the tux a few time a year, I'd probably get two business suits instead.

A lot of it will have to do with *your* situation. In some areas a black suit is considered dressy "evening wear"; people don't wear tuxes when they "dress up". In other areas any suit is a "business suit", i.e. "a businessman's uniform" and thus inappropriate for most social occasions (funerals and casual weddings excepted).

If you attend many funerals you really oughta have a black suit.

See how you look in both blue and gray. I love gray suits, but I gotta admit I usually look better in a medium blue. Navy, with or without pinstripes, just isn't that flattering on me either. It's all about what looks right on the individual and you won't know what looks right on you until you try a bunch of different colors and styles.

Just avoid earth tones and greens unless you *really* know what you're doing

Too many people buy something "stylish" and end up looking like they're wearing somebody else's clothes.

If you can swing the cost, get functional sleeve buttons ("surgeon's cuffs"), they're a great little detail

Spilchy · 06-26-05, 09:03

For me, I'm strictly a 2 button classic guy. MAYBE I'd consider 3 button - particularly Jospeh Abboud. Anything more and you'll look like those tacky professional ball players on draft day. I never cuff my pants - cleaner look for me, and like you, I wear pleats. NO flat fronts for me. Too fairy, trendy European for me.

I would not alter the jacket in a way that it wasn't supposed to look. Just alter to nip, tuck or let out so you'll look nice and crisp. Stick with the 3 button then if you want to hide more of the shirt & tie.

I mostly have blue suits that have slight blue patterns in them or very faint accent colors in either pin stripe, check or herring bone patterns.

If you're not familiar with suits and want a good quality one, go to a Today's Man or whatever chain suit store is on your area. Many times they have great sales. They have those classic suits you're looking for. Their top of the line suits, if you can catch a sale, represent a nice, quality "beginner" suit. They should alter it so you'll look sharp in it. Or, go to a trusted tailor if you have one.

Also, at these chain stores, you can pick up some nice dress shirts, dress belts and socks. They're a good "one stop shop" for all your suit needs. Obviously, when it comes to shoes, NO rubber soles - dress shoes only. If you need an affordable dress shoe, check out Johnston & Murphy.

Maybe you can catch a sale at Brooks Brothers if you have one in your area. They're not what they used to be, but they definately have your classic style.

I have had great success at oulet stores and stores that had going out of business sales. I just went with my father to a designer outlet center. He picked up a Barneys New York suit for $275 that retailed for $1000. So keep your eyes peeled for sales. Clothes are always marked up. There is no reason to pay retail. The classics you're looking for are easy to find.

When it comes to suits, just remember, if it's cheap (not a good sale) then stay away.

LINKS:

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/

http://www.josbank.com/HomePage.process

http://www.menswearhouse.com/home_pa...=1119805878278

http://www.menswear-discounts.com/

http://www.bachrach.com/

http://www.skmenswear.com/skmenswear/0010_index.asp

http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/

newagain · 06-26-05, 10:25

Since your asking I would forget the suits instead get 2 sportscoats and a couple of pants that match. The mens wearhouse is good starting point they have EVERYTHING you need or JOSBANK or Nordstrom
If they have those stores in your area GOODLUCK. DONT FORGET THE SHOES

Accumulator · 06-26-05, 11:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by newagain

Since your asking I would forget the suits instead get 2 sportscoats and a couple of pants that match...

I don't wanna sound all

or anything, and I'm pretty conservative to say the least (wooh-hooh, what an understatement

), but IMO wearing a sport coat for business can be just as inappropriate as wearing a business suit to a cocktail party

A better combo would be one good suit and one sport coat (e.g., a blue blazer) so that he always has something appropriate for business *and* social occasions. Jeez, I just *know* that sounds a lot snottier than I mean it to...

Bill D · 06-26-05, 11:45

Here I am typing this in a torch red RL shirt

Accumulator:

Nothing but sold white button down shirts, brown or black belts and shoes.

J/K.

I agree. Not at all meant to be snooty, but yep, one nice business suit and a a sport coat should have you covered all the way around without an "oops"

Another word for conservative is "classic"

Spilchy · 06-26-05, 12:08

Also, for me, no spread collar shirts or button down collar shirts with suits.

I prefer a pointed collar (French cuffed so I can wear my collection of gold links from my grandpa) with a Half-Windsor knot.

Bill D · 06-26-05, 12:25

French cuffs=

2wheelsx2 · 06-26-05, 01:52

I concur with the blue and grey. Conservative yet flexible. I am skinny like you, so I would stay away from double breasted. Will make you look skinny, unless you are fairly broad shoulder (I do have one double breasted suit because of this reason). Stay with the suits, and if you want, add a couple of pairs of slacks in complementary colours so that you can mix and match a bit.

As for shirts, I have all types, and I just dress up or down, depending on the occasion. If you are getting the suits custom fitted, make sure you are wearing appropriate clothing for the fittings.....ie., don't wear golf shirts, or collarless shirts, only wear the style of shirt you will likely wear when you have the suits on, so you get that "oh so perfect" fit. Sounds redundant, but I know when I got my first suit done, I forgot to, and wear a think rugby shirt, which made the fit afterwards not as good as it should have been.

newagain · 06-26-05, 02:47

Accumulator:

No offense taken That was my opinion and That's all I own a couple of sport coats By Hugo Boss, Nieman Marcus, Armani and Nordstrom with some great slacks all with a 1-1/4 cuff with a 2 inch break and some great shoes from Nordstrom all my shirt are van huesan and my ties I get from TJ maxx and I wear my clothes well because all the women tell me THAT !!!!!!! One more thing I am a very BIG man to give you an idea some say I look like That american idol guy Reuban again no offense taken @ all back @ uuuuuu

tabinha · 06-26-05, 03:24

I am a CPA in the US and am in my late sixties and spent more than 40 years in the shirt and tie thing. Dark suites are the way to go, if you only own two. No light grey suits. Light grey is a weak color. One solid navy blue and one navy blue with a narrow light stripe. At 5'9 a stripe will give you height. Also 5'9' is the break point for cuffs. Tall guys must have cuffs, they cut them off and short guys no cuffs because they do not what to be cut off.
White and light blue shirts with narrow width points. Wide spread is good in the UK but not on this continent. Bottom down OK, but really dressy.
Bright tie, red and yellow. Strong. Also be sure in can see your face in your shoe shine. It is more important to have shined shoes than a shined car, if you go out into the business world.
Matching hankky is nice, but not necessary.

Spend as much as you can for the suits. Cheap suite look cheap. I do not care what anyone else tells you. A good cut suit is worth its weight in gold. A get a good taylor. Ask around.

I hope that this helps.