A small "how-to" on chip repair/wetsanding + spring cleaning (black G35) (56k = owie) - Page 6

Por2geezSupra · 04-17-08, 12:35

so ill be better off if i end with 2500 or 3000? Can i start with 2000 then go right to 3000? or should i do 2500 in between?

Picus · 04-17-08, 06:11

It's always better to end with the highest grit you have, unless you find you don't need it. It often depends on the paint and how aggressive you want to get when removing the sanding scratches. You can go right from 2000 to 3000.

jayjs81 · 06-12-08, 10:11

I am brand new to the forum but have been reading advice in here for a while. Picus, this is one of the best threads I have seen here. Thank You.

I have a 04 CLK 500 with Obsidian Metalic Black paint. I have several rock chips in my hood and I am excited to try your method. However people keep tellimg me with metalic black paint it will never match and to just get the hood repainted.

What are you thoughts on attempting it on a car with this paint.

Thanks in advance.

Picus · 06-12-08, 02:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayjs81

I am brand new to the forum but have been reading advice in here for a while. Picus, this is one of the best threads I have seen here. Thank You.

I have a 04 CLK 500 with Obsidian Metalic Black paint. I have several rock chips in my hood and I am excited to try your method. However people keep tellimg me with metalic black paint it will never match and to just get the hood repainted.

What are you thoughts on attempting it on a car with this paint.

Thanks in advance.

I find metallic black pretty easy to match when done correctly. Silvers and whites can be pretty touch, but as long as the base color is dark I generally find the touchups come out really well. I might update this thread with some more tips soon, thanks for bumping it.

reggie11 · 10-14-08, 09:37

This is a friggin great post... I wish I had found this earlier. Really nice work on the repair!
Picus please check your PM as I have asked you a few questions on a repair that I want to do on my G35. Figured it would be easier that way!

kopimon · 04-01-09, 08:51

Picus, you say that a layer of clearcoat is for helping the paint match, and not for protection. But if you were to ever do swirl removal on the area you repaired, wouldn't a clearcoat make it easier?

astrob0y · 04-03-09, 01:12

So when your sanding with 2000grit how do you know when it's ready for 3000grit?

sriquixotic · 04-03-09, 08:45

I would guess when you no longer see your scratch or blemish after checking every other swipe then its safe to move onto 3000. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Accumulator · 04-04-09, 09:16

IMO it sometimes pays to go to the milder paper *before* the problem is completely solved. Note that the 3k will do some cutting and so will the more aggressive post-wetsanding compounding/polishing steps.

This is the opposite of my advice to *not* switch to mild polishes until the more aggressive compound/polish has basically done all the correction. With wetsanding there's still more abrasion down the road, and it's likely to be aggressive enough to do a little more correction of the sanding marks.

Flashtime · 04-04-09, 10:01

Picus,

I don't mean to put you down in anyway and your attempt is good.
However, this method is wrong on too many levels; starting with
aerosol products from Pepboys and the like. I'm speaking of the
bumper repair and not the chip repair (which is excellent BTW).

Come join Autobody101.com. We've discussed this "type" of repair many times.
In a nutshell, because of poor products and NO durability, it's not worth
the time.

Picus · 04-04-09, 01:17

I wrote this article three years ago in an attempt to help people effect minimal repairs with "novice" equipment. I was asked to include the bumper repair because I posted it in a c&b, so I just instructed them in the way I did it. It was done on a car being prep'd for sale, it was not meant to be body shop level. Thanks for the input, though.

dmk112 · 04-17-09, 06:30

Where is the bumper repair located?? I don't see it anywhere in this thread.