A small "how-to" on chip repair/wetsanding + spring cleaning (black G35) (56k = owie) - Page 3

ZoranC · 01-02-07, 03:20

Bravo! Excellent thread!

noooorb · 01-02-07, 03:43

Excellent job. But the great results on a black are much easier to achieve than compared to a metallic color, where touch up paint color comes out almost never the same as the original paint.

Picus · 01-02-07, 03:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bioman

Pen? I stopped by and they gave me a small bottle of touch-up. They sell such a pen at the dealership?

Oh weird, I haven't seen Infiniti give out a bottle in years. It's always felt tipped pens here. Well, either way hit up an auto store and grab a small jar of duplicolor clear. FWIW, you don't actually need the clear, it just helps blend the touchup.

Quote:

Originally Posted by noooorb

Excellent job. But the great results on a black are much easier to achieve than compared to a metallic color, where touch up paint color comes out almost never the same as the original paint.

Very true. I just used black in this example because at the time my car was black (and so was my sisters); I didn't want to do a "how to" with a customer car.

Incidentally both cars have been sold since I posted this thread 8 months ago.

5IVE · 04-10-07, 01:50

newbie question ahead...

should you apply the paint, then clearcoat, then sand? Will this remove the clearcoat? OR do you apply the clearcoat after you sand and sand again? HELP!!

Picus · 04-10-07, 02:00

9/10 times I don't apply clear coat at all, unless there is a color match problem.

5IVE · 04-10-07, 02:33

sorry for my dumbed down questions...but does this compromise the paints strength at all? or perhaps make that part of the paint exposed without clearcoat protection?

Picus · 04-10-07, 03:06

No, and no. I've never seen a chip repair that I did oxidize or pop out after it was sanded and polished. They sometimes pop out during sanding, which is why I like to wait 48 hours.

If I was doing a large scratch I might add some clear as the last layer of paint before sanding. I generally find when adding clear it's actually harder to get the paint to match perfectly.

mose · 04-10-07, 03:14

Amazing write up!! Thank you so much!

My question is: When doing a car and waiting the two days for the paint to cure, can the car be driven?

5IVE · 04-10-07, 03:25

Thank you for this awesome information!!! One more thing...does the sand paper brand matter? I should have put these in 1 post! Will attempt soon and post b/a pics...High 5IVE!!

evenflow · 04-10-07, 04:13

Excellent write up. Someone slammed their door into mine and took out a chunk of paint. After reading this im no longer nervous about painting it up, and sanding it out. Going to give it a shot soon.

Picus · 04-10-07, 04:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5IVE

Thank you for this awesome information!!! One more thing...does the sand paper brand matter? I should have put these in 1 post! Will attempt soon and post b/a pics...High 5IVE!!

Well the brand doesn't matter so much but I highly recommend unigrit paper. I find it's much, much easier to get out sandpaper marring when using 2k-3k unigrit as opposed to regular 2-3k grit.

Reflections · 04-11-07, 10:40

Great write-up and great work, thanks for taking the time to share. Hope you're getting less snow than we are in Calgary right now.

Edit - Question:

If you're adding clear at the end and before sanding, isn't there a danger if you build up the basecoat too deep that you will sand all the clearcoat off while levelling the scratch?

Also, is it worth masking off an inch out from around the whole scratch to reduce how much area you're sanding?