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Old 03-08-07, 09:52   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

Do you buy Monster brand home theater cables? Do you own and love Bose products for the price you paid? If you do, buy DYNAMAT!

Seriously though, DYNAMAT works, but it's the most overpriced product in its class.

Cabin noise you hear in your car is from two main sources... audible noise from tires, wind, and your engine, and secondly from chassis vibrations that resonate into audible sound.

To eliminate the vibrations...butyl tar-based dynamat adds mass to the resonanting/vibrating sheetmetal it's applied to and absorbs the energy converting it into low level heat.

To eliminate engine, wind, and tire noise, you can add dynamat to the interior firewall, interior wheel wells, and doors which will be effective to a point... but even better would be to use dynamat in addition to a "barrier" type noise suppresor.

Read the stuff on b-quiet.com. They sell brown bread, which I bought 3 years ago and used on my doors and trunk, but I plan on saving even more money this spring when I buy their v-comp foam cell barrier material and use it with HOME DEPOT-bought "Peel n' Seal" tar-based roofing adhesive material (on my entire interior floor, firewall, and rear wheel wells), which on many car audio forums people have used which is nearly as effective as more expensive dynamat/brown bread.

The Peel n Seal is about 1/3 the price of brown bread per sq. foot, and Brown Bread is about 1/2 price of Dynamat. I'm puling those numbers out of my *** but if you do the shopping you'll see I'm not that far off.

I drive a '93 nissan 240sx hatchback.
 
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Old 03-09-07, 08:13   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5RS
RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening
Cheaper and better than Dynamat (Yes, I've used both) Get Some RaamMat and Ensolite foam, a few cans of his spray adhesive and you are good to go.
He has also got a good "How To" section, read through that. Its really not that hard to do, if you are comfortable popping off panels and pulling up carpet (Should be pretty easy on most vehicles)
Good luck!
- Andrew
+1 for RaamMat. Best bang for your buck. Very easy to work with. The owner of the company is a great guy, and will give you help if you need it. I applied RaamMat and Ensolite to my entire interior. Check my CarDomain for pics. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238/10
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Old 03-14-07, 10:58   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

I am about to install one of these products in my '95 Formula to reduce noise, specifically some vibrations that I am getting in the rear sail panels from bass coming from the speakers.

Just be aware that with all of these products, if you find the need to remove them later, it can be a major hassle.
 
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Old 04-06-07, 04:09   #16 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

Quote:
Originally Posted by RatedG
Do you buy Monster brand home theater cables? Do you own and love Bose products for the price you paid? If you do, buy DYNAMAT!

Seriously though, DYNAMAT works, but it's the most overpriced product in its class.

Cabin noise you hear in your car is from two main sources... audible noise from tires, wind, and your engine, and secondly from chassis vibrations that resonate into audible sound.

To eliminate the vibrations...butyl tar-based dynamat adds mass to the resonanting/vibrating sheetmetal it's applied to and absorbs the energy converting it into low level heat.

To eliminate engine, wind, and tire noise, you can add dynamat to the interior firewall, interior wheel wells, and doors which will be effective to a point... but even better would be to use dynamat in addition to a "barrier" type noise suppresor.

Read the stuff on b-quiet.com. They sell brown bread, which I bought 3 years ago and used on my doors and trunk, but I plan on saving even more money this spring when I buy their v-comp foam cell barrier material and use it with HOME DEPOT-bought "Peel n' Seal" tar-based roofing adhesive material (on my entire interior floor, firewall, and rear wheel wells), which on many car audio forums people have used which is nearly as effective as more expensive dynamat/brown bread.

The Peel n Seal is about 1/3 the price of brown bread per sq. foot, and Brown Bread is about 1/2 price of Dynamat. I'm puling those numbers out of my *** but if you do the shopping you'll see I'm not that far off.

I drive a '93 nissan 240sx hatchback.

I completely agree with this post(especially about the Bose part). I used Peel/Seal on my '97 Bonneville on the trunk floor/walls, and under the backseat and just that little bit alone made it sooo much quieter. When I sold I kinda "borrowed" the stock sound padding it came with out of it, and left the Peel/Seal in(it is permanet). I still have it waiting to be put in the Aurora alone with a coat of Peel/Seal.

Edit.... So i brought up a really old thread... Sry :-)
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Old 04-06-07, 04:55   #17 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull
I am about to install one of these products in my '95 Formula to reduce noise, specifically some vibrations that I am getting in the rear sail panels from bass coming from the speakers.

Just be aware that with all of these products, if you find the need to remove them later, it can be a major hassle.
Removal isn't all thet bad ... Heat gun will peel it pretty easy ...

The Spray on liner works very well some people (me included) have used spray in bedliner....
I've used Rockford Fosgate Noise killer spray in liner as well
 
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Old 04-07-07, 07:58   #18 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

i would suggest beware of mounting large sheets vertically. Sometimes its own weight can help it to fall off where you applied it, especially in extreme weather. Just cut it into smaller pieces for doors and such...
 
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Old 04-13-07, 02:01   #19 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

Tar based stuff is OK for horizontal surfaces but buy butyl rubber based deadeners for the vertical. Tar based has a very low point at which it starts to become semi liquid, losing grip on the panels after that. It also can in some casers have a strong tar smell for quite a while. Google sound deadener showdown for a comparison on butyl vs tar. Deadener simply makes the panel quieter by maiking it heavier, reducing resonance or "ring". A pebble kicked up would only make a dull "thud" rather than a "ping". For noise reduction I would suggest the ensolite as mentioned earlier or the eDead (Elemental Designs) teklite which will deaden actual sound better than a mat. Use this inside door panels, under carpet etc and use the butyl mat on any surface that "rings" when knocked on with a knuckle.

A cheaper alternative to ensolite or teklite but which doesnt work as well is synthetic carpet padding that looks like it is made of felt peices. Home Depot or Lowes carriesd it cheap. This is the stuff that looks like it came from under a piece of auto carpeting. You can buy this and then use 3m adhesive to place an extra layer or two under the back seat, under the carpeting under the front seats and under the trunk carpeting. Kinda bulky to add everwhere and not recommended in the doors or anywhere that moisture may be as it is not a robust material.

Good luck
 
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Old 04-27-07, 09:43   #20 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

...Another one for RaamMat I have it on my doors, made a very nice difference with one layer on the inside and outside panels. I also have Dynamat Extreme in my trunk, which I was VERY impressed with, but I don't have no where as much bass in my doors. I would stick with RaamMat for price and service, Rick anwsers my e-mails before I can even go check my mail again lol.
 
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Old 09-04-09, 03:10   #21 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

I have Qwikliner and it works well. "Low Pressure" material is softer and more rubber like with a coarser texture. This makes it more slip resistant. Because it has a 15-20 second gel time it can flow into low places and fill them much better than "High Pressure" can. Due to "Low Pressure's" density and thickness, it is an excellent sound deadener. Body rattle and road noise are greatly reduced. For this reason we recommend "Low Pressure" almost always for vehicle interiors and exterior.
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Old 09-21-09, 11:26   #22 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

I've used Dynamat at work, and eDead v3 on my own vehicle. eDead v3 is FAR more cost effective, and if you were spraying it on I'm sure you could do it a lot faster. I'm satisfied with my edead v3, the only drawbck I can offer is that you can't use it to seal up a door panel since its a liquid. Eventually I'll get some peel & seal for sealing up the door panels and I need to do my spare tire well. All in due time.
 
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Old 09-21-09, 12:43   #23 (permalink)
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Re: Sound Deadening

i vote for secondskinaudio.com

they have watery spray on heat and sound dampeners along with a brush on paste version.
not to mention they also carry foil backed dynamat style sheets in 2 sizes along with all sorts of open and closed cell foam mats in varying thicknesses. a big plus is they have a great forum and the owner is really cool.

their products stand up to some serious heat for those that are concerned. i believe they got tested up to 500 degrees F. dynamat n all that brown bread crap falls off vertical surfaces at somewhere over 200 degrees. ive had dynamat start to peel off on me but the tar melting and sticking to everything is way more of a problem. if i have no problems with it in hawaii most other places should be fine.

i bought over a grand in products from them and if i was running stock rims and tires and maybe spent another 100 on spraying the inner fender wells my interior would be tomb silent. after enough application of secondskin products you start to get picky about wind noise and tire roar, which cant really be helped unless you change the aerodynamics of the car and put on 15 inch rims with 65 series super soft rubber
 
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