Anyone Help with Amp Install? (With Pics)

Glowin97x · 01-03-07, 02:51

Hey guys can anyone help with this? Im trying to re install a sub into my new car. I had a shop put it in the Explorer and now i want it in the mustang but the shop wants $95. I kept all the wires so its just a matter of connecting the right wire to the right spot. Ive never done an amp before and dont feel like burning down the car. Lemme know if this looks right. I know the sub and amp match and all because it was the same setup from the explorer. THANKS

Red = Power wire to Batt w/ fuse w/in 12" from batt
Orange = Remote turn on to back of HU
Brown = Ground to frame

This is a 4 channel Amp
- from channel 4 and + from channel 3 to Sub to bridge 3Ch&4Ch 4

Ch2 & Ch 1 are seperate to amp the speakers

here is where I get a little confused the shop that put it in wired it like this

The other end of the bundle of wires coming from the leads on ch2 & ch1 = 8 seperate wires (a pos and neg to each speaker)

the way it worked was i could only control the fad between the sub and speakers but not individually the fronts and rears

RCA Inputs Ch3 & 4 are Sub preouts from the HU?
and CH 1 & 2 the speaker pre outs?

THANKS!

Brandon1 · 01-03-07, 02:53

What voice coil is your sub, what ohms is it, and what is the specs on your amp. I can show you how to correctly wire the thing.

oh I see now, you have channel 1&2 going to front speakers, and channel 3&4 going to the sub?

Glowin97x · 01-03-07, 02:57

yeah Unfortunately i dont know how many voice coils the sub Has but it is a RF punch 12" from a few years ago. Ch 3 & 4 are going to the sub. The amp is a "300w x4" boss amp.

Brandon1 · 01-03-07, 03:13

Ok, channel 1 and 2 should go to the front right (1) and front left(2) with both pos and neg wires hooking up to the right inputs. There should be a way to "bridge" the sub (one pos and one neg from channel 3 and 4). If you bridge the sub, you will get max power to it. That amp you say is 300x4 and that is a max rating so it's prob 150x4 and since it's prob. overrated, its prob 75x4 or in your case 75x2 to the front speakers, and 150x1 to the sub.

EDIT: I did not realize you were running rear speakers. You could just run them of your h/u b/c you do not need rear speakers. Rear speakers messes up your imaging and sound quality. Or you could take and hook up the rear speakers in channel 1 and 2 just like you would the front, then the power would be split.

Pb2theMax · 02-20-07, 06:13

They have the possitive of one sub connected to the negative of another sub. This means that the subs are wired in series.

What kind of ohm loads is your amp stable to?

WHen you wire subs in series it makes the ohm multiply. Two 8 ohm subs in series would equal a 16 ohm load to the amp.

Two 8 ohm subs wired in parallel would divide the ohm load. It would 4 ohms. Most amps can only handle ohm loads down to 4 ohms when the channels are bridged. Some subwoofer amps can handle lower ohm loads.