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Old 04-10-06, 08:23   #1 (permalink)
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Potentially serious, and frustrating, problem. Please help...

My problem started a couple of weeks ago. I noticed that my keyless entry remote was working sporadically. I switched the remote on my key ring with the spare, and tried that one instead. Same problem. So I went to Autozone and bought a new battery. Even with the new battery, the problem still exists.
If I push the buttons on the remote, I don't hear a sound from inside or from the engine bay, unless the doors actually lock/unlock. The times that they don't respond, there is no sound whatsoever. Shouldn't there be a sound from some electronic part (a relay?)?
I recall that I did clean the engine bay thoroughly a couple days prior to noticing this problem. I clean my engine entirely by hand though, so water forced into a component is not likely. I'm thinking maybe I got some NXT Protectant on a wire or connection somewhere that is causing the intermittent operation?

Here lies the biggest part of the problem...
I have been using my key in the lock cylinder to open the doors much of the time, when pushing the remote a dozen times doesn't yield any response. There is a small plastic bar inside the cylinder that I assume is there to keep water/dirt out of the cylinder. Well this plastic has apparently been degrading over the years, because after a few times being pushed by the key, it started to crumble and chip away. The one on the driver's side has more missing then remaining at this time. Of course it happens when you push the key in, so most (or all) of the bits of plastic fall inside. This morning I opened the garage and pushed my remote button to open the doors...no response. After a dozen or more attempts, I decided to use the key. I inserted the key, and a piece broke off (surprise surprise... ). The piece got stuck in the cylinder, so the key could not get in. I didn't push hard on it, because I knew it wouldn't help my case to force it farther in the cylinder. I went around to the passenger side door to unlock the doors, but of course the plastic piece in that one is falling apart too, so it's only a matter of time before my remote won't work, and neither of my key cylinders will unlock the doors either. :

I just went outside to move my car from one of the campus parking lots (metered parking...I was late) to a farther one (non-metered). Of course I had to open the doors from the passenger side again, and hope that the plastic didn't clog that cylinder. I'd be in big trouble if it did.
So I got in, drove it to the other lot, and had the idea to use a tiny knife blade to pick the plastic out of the driver's side cylinder. I wasn't able to actually remove it, but I was able to push it up and out of the way of the key. I inserted the key slowly, and it went right in, locking and unlocking the doors with no problem. I'm afraid this is merely a temporary fix though. After all, the plastic bits are still inside there, just not actually clogging the cylinder.
This is really frustrating me. What good is a shiny car if you can't open the doors? I really don't want to leave my door(s) unlocked all the time either.

Please offer some suggestions/ideas! Any reason my keyless might not be working? Anything I could do to fix the lock cylinder issue? Any other ideas about anything?
Thank you.
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Old 04-10-06, 08:38   #2 (permalink)
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Mainly, try resetting the computer. Unhook the negative cable and leave it alone for a while, or turn on the headlights to flush out the remaining charge.

Then, do the factory reset function on both keyfobs. I assume there is one, at least. You may have to hold down lock+unlock for a few seconds.

Also, see if the batteries inside the keyfobs are actually good. I don't know if you have access to a voltmeter, but lithium CR batteries are pretty specific in terms of voltage (3.2xx or so). Maybe a nearby battery store or a friend can help you out on that.
 
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Old 04-10-06, 08:42   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truzoom
Mainly, try resetting the computer. Unhook the negative cable and leave it alone for a while, or turn on the headlights to flush out the remaining charge.

Then, do the factory reset function on both keyfobs. I assume there is one, at least. You may have to hold down lock+unlock for a few seconds.

Also, see if the batteries inside the keyfobs are actually good. I don't know if you have access to a voltmeter, but lithium CR batteries are pretty specific in terms of voltage (3.2xx or so). Maybe a nearby battery store or a friend can help you out on that.
I did disconnect it for about 10 minutes, but I'll leave it disconnected all night and see what happens.

I read the section in my FSM about the keyless, and didn't see anything about a factory reset. I will re-read it, and also post this on the Mazda forums to see if they can help.

The battery in one of the remotes is brand new. Are you thinking that it may be the wrong battery?
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Old 04-10-06, 11:30   #4 (permalink)
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Driver's side:



Passenger side:




Metal! What a brilliant idea!
I don't know why they used metal for the trunklid lock but not the door locks.

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Old 04-10-06, 11:33   #5 (permalink)
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Maybe the door locks were recombinated, and those aren't the original cylinders.
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Old 04-10-06, 11:46   #6 (permalink)
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Try detailing your remote. I found on one of mine that pocket lint had blocked the contact points on the buttons. A good cleaning out of all the dust and stuff made it work like new. Seemed to extend the range a bit too
 
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Old 04-10-06, 12:39   #7 (permalink)
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Interesting idea...I'll give them both a cleaning.
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Old 04-10-06, 12:46   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChevMan
Try detailing your remote. I found on one of mine that pocket lint had blocked the contact points on the buttons. A good cleaning out of all the dust and stuff made it work like new. Seemed to extend the range a bit too
To add onto that: When you pop open the fob, there should be a PCB with one side that is totally flat; make sure it is clean of any oils, also clean the inside of the rubber button piece. Surprisingly enough, I've seen many GM fobs that quit working because hand oils seep through the rather thick rubber and contaminate the electronics.
 
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Old 04-10-06, 12:56   #9 (permalink)
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I just cleaned the inside of both of the remotes, and each one had a black grease smear in there. They're all clean now. I even removed the batteries and wiped those off too.

How do I access the inside of the rubber button piece? You can't see it when you pop the fob open, and it doesn't seem to want to pop out from above.
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Old 04-10-06, 01:34   #10 (permalink)
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Goto a locksmith...have him pull the cylinder and clean it out. This happened to me when my wife locked the keys in a bronco and used a coathanger in the cylinder. Bad thing was the coathanger was coated with plastic and it pulled off inside the cylinder. She didn't tell me this until I tried to put the key inside the cylinder several times which jammed the plastic even further... Locksmith took out cylinder and picked out all the plastic (took about an hour). Charged me $50...
 
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Old 04-10-06, 01:44   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White95Max
I just cleaned the inside of both of the remotes, and each one had a black grease smear in there. They're all clean now. I even removed the batteries and wiped those off too.

How do I access the inside of the rubber button piece? You can't see it when you pop the fob open, and it doesn't seem to want to pop out from above.
It may not work the same with yours. I guess I'm going off how GM style remotes are where its like (Half of remote | Layer of rubber buttons | PCB | Other half of remote).
 
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Old 04-10-06, 02:00   #12 (permalink)
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If you didn't already, make sure the battery contacts in the remotes are very clean. I'd gently abrade them with a coarse eraser (the kind made to erase ink).

If you get the lock cylinders cleaned out, you'll still be without the pieces that keep the elements out. I'd start thinking about replacing lock cylinders, which could be a real hassle if you can't get the new ones rekeyed to match the others- you might be looking at replacing your ignition, hatch, glovebox ones too Better to deal with such hassles now as opposed to next winter
 
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