What brand/weight oil do you run? - Page 2

JM19 · 01-03-05, 05:07

I use Pennzoil Synthetic 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer.

You can make the switch to a synthetic as long as there are no problems with your engine. A synthetic can help prolong the life of your engine, but it won't fix any existing problems. If you have problems right now, get them fixed and then make the switch to synthetic.

I made the switch to synthetic this past fall and haven't looked back!

Blazern00b · 01-03-05, 05:19

Again, I would run AutoRX through the engine to clean any deposits up, and help to swell any seals that may have developed leaks. This should help in preventing leaks once the synthetic has been added.
Also, remember, lol bobistheoilguy.com
There is so much info on switching there it will make your head spin, much as mine does here reading about detailing and car care.

(I have to plug them, they helped me find autopia! lol)

Setec Astronomy · 01-03-05, 05:23

Quote:

Originally posted by Lone Gunman
Conventional oil will gunk up your seals and engine. If you switch to a synthetic oil, with its much higher content of detergents, it will clean out that gunk that may have been preventing a leak.

I don't agree with this. As far as I know, synthetic oil doesn't have any higher detergency. The reason synthetic doesn't "gunk" up your engine is not because it has more detergents, but because it is more resistant to the thermal breakdown which turns conventional oil into "gunk". (Mobil used to have a very effective commercial with the frying pans to illustrate this)

IMO, Mobil 1 won't do anything to remove any existing gunk. Maxy, if you're worried about this, only you know how much gunk you already have, if it isn't much, then this shouldn't be a concern.

G35stilez · 01-03-05, 05:23

Mobil 1 - 5w30 - Synthetic
Honda OEM Filter

fng_3887 · 01-03-05, 05:51

Castrol Syntec Blend 5w30

jimc · 01-03-05, 05:55

Ford bulk, what ever that is, 5w20

shaw · 01-03-05, 05:58

I am running Dyson Oil. Most know it (not very many) by Synergen. The 3/30W Racing Oil is in all my stuff right now. Synergen is EXCELLENT and they have a great fuel additive / conditioner that does very well. Their trans. fluid, gear oil, and greases are also very high grade.

Dyson is a small, humble company in Oklahoma that does things right.

I run Puralotor Pure One filters. A quality filter ia a must for extended intervals. Look at all the $$$ we spend on detailing stuff. Spend a little on your lube systems. Flush your tranny, coolant, and power steering if you plan on keeping your car. Money well spent!

94BlkStang · 01-03-05, 06:08

Quote:

Originally posted by Lone Gunman
I agree with vaporeOn. Conventional oil will gunk up your seals and engine. If you switch to a synthetic oil, with its much higher content of detergents, it will clean out that gunk that may have been preventing a leak.

Sorry, but that is just not true. A quality dino oil with proper maintenance and a well tuned car will not gunk up. Oil technology has changed a lot over the years with the use of base stocks that can rival synthetic base stocks in many applications. Also, a good quality dino oil (I recommend Chevron Supreme or Castrol) will have more than adequate detergents and dispersants to keep the internals in good running order. Synthetics will increase the margin of error, but most Autopians are meticulous about the maintenance of their vehicles as they are about the appearance.

jsf252 · 01-03-05, 06:44

My BMW only gets Mobil1 15w-50. I live in the south, and its warm, so a thicker oil helps protect.

BTW this is my first post, and it's great site with tons of info. Like several other guys in here, I recieved a PC for Christmas, and I've already cleaned, polished, and waxed the "ol' lady's" car. Looks great thinks to the know-how that you guys have.

Josh F.

Bill D · 01-03-05, 07:23

Quote:

Originally posted by Blazern00b
Again, I would run AutoRX through the engine to clean any deposits up, and help to swell any seals that may have developed leaks. ....

I have that in the Caddy, supposed to extend oil changing intervals if you do not put many miles on the car.

Scottwax · 01-03-05, 07:56

Quote:

Originally posted by Setec Astronomy
I'll second that I have no gunk or burned film inside (looking at the top of the head thru the filler cap) after using Mobil 1 on those 2 cars for 110,000+ miles each. To be fair, I don't know that if I had used conventional oil it wouldn't be the same.

When I had my Chevelle, I used Valvoline 10W-40 and changed it every 2500-3000 miles in the new Target Master 350 I put in. At around 50,000 miles, I changed the cam, heads, etc and started taking it out to the dragstrip every other weekend. At around 96,000 miles, I got another engine-it had around 15,000 miles on a .030 over rebuild, steel crank, etc and I gave my engine and $300 to get it. When we tore down my engine, even at 96,000 miles, it was absolutely spotless inside. All it needed was a clean-up hone...and this was all on early 80's dino oil.

Timely oil and filter changes are more important overall than simply using synthetic over conventional oils.

shumax · 01-03-05, 07:58

Does anyone know where I can find 5W20 for my Honda Accord V6? I can't find Mobil 1 in that weight anywhere!