CV joints???

Dale DeSteno · 04-08-04, 12:07

Hey Kats & Kittens!

I am taking on the task of replacing the CV Joints in my 92 Civic this weekend. SUPPOSABLY it is a 'easy' job, couple hours for both sides and nothing too complicated...
Anyone have experience with this? What am I in for?!?!?! Should I pick up some tranny fluid in addition to the joints? What will I need?

Any feedback would be great!

Thanks!
drd

EDIT: Replace the word 'Joints' with 'Shafts.'

imezru · 04-08-04, 12:21

I can't speak for a honda, but I know that on my mazda it was much easier and recommended to replace the whole cv shaft instead of the just the joint.

tom p. · 04-08-04, 12:23

Have plenty of solvent and several rolls of paper towel.

Dale DeSteno · 04-08-04, 12:30

Quote:

Originally posted by imezru
I can't speak for a honda, but I know that on my mazda it was much easier and recommended to replace the whole cv shaft instead of the just the joint.

Oh man, my mistake. SHAFTS! I am doing the shafts, not the joints.

Have to go edit my whole post now!

Tom, what is so messy? The tranny fluid?

Searchin4acoupe · 04-08-04, 01:06

I have done probably a dozen CV shaft jobs on my Hondas over the years. All of them were manual transmissions however. On manual transmissions, you will need to drain all of the motor oil from the tranny prior to removing the axles, or you will have a giant mess when you pull the axles. I would expect an automatic is similar, check your maintenance manual.

As for your expectation of it being "easy"... Well its easier than a tranny removal, but if this is your first time digging into it, I would expect a half a day or so, maybe longer if you run into any headaches, as I always seem to. It really isn't that complicated, just tends to always take me longer than I expect. If I can be of any assistance, let me know.

Some headaches you may encounter:

-Stubborn axles nuts, break them loose with the car on the ground, have a big breaker bar and a partner inside the car standing on the brakes. Although overkill, I bought myself a 3/4" drive breaker bar solely for these nuts and crankshaft bolts. I broke a 1/2" drive breaker once, never again. Ouch is all I can say.

-Lower ball joints not separating, I don't have the right puller, so a few good whacks to the side of the balljoint (end of lower control arm) after loosening the castle nut usually does the trick. Be careful not to damage the boot for the ball joint while you are down there.

-Pulling the outer joint apart while wrestling the new axles into place. NEVER pull on the outboard side of the outer joint. Pull on the axle shaft itself. If it does separate, good luck getting it back together without removing the boot. Boot removal is definitely a huge mess and a job within itself. AVOID THIS AT ALL COSTS.

-If at all posible, take the old axles with you when you buy the new ones. Make sure they match exactly. Don't give the shop your old ones until the new ones are installed and working. Most places will charge you a core charge, and will refund it upon return of your old axles.

Good luck!

Dave

Dale DeSteno · 04-08-04, 01:18

Thanks Dave!
Yup, this one is also manual tranny.
So I should have some motor oil and tranny oil on hand??
Hmmm....paying someone is starting to sound pretty good...but saving a bunch of money also sounds good....
oh man...

tom p. · 04-08-04, 01:18

why are you replacing drive shafts? Are they damaged?

Dale DeSteno · 04-08-04, 01:22

yeah, the boots are shot and it is supposed to be just as hard to replace the shafts as the boots...

tom p. · 04-08-04, 01:33

well, just be forewarned, sometimes the re-built are worse than the ones you are replacing.

If I know the shaft is good (undamaged), I'll go the re-pack route and not give up a known good driveshaft.

The job is time-consuming if you have no previous experience.

Searchin4acoupe · 04-08-04, 01:51

I agree with tom, my personal policy has become "keep the good ones". Most people don't want to mess with re-packing joints though. CV joints in particular are a scary deal when you need to replace them. If you are catching the problem early enough, you should be able to disassemble, clean and reassammble with no problems. If they are making noise, better get some new ones. If you go the re-pack route, you will need to buy a tool for tightening the new bands around the boots. Not too expensive, 30 bucks tops. There are two types of boot clamps so make sure you buy the right tool, based upon which boot clamps you get. Most shops just carry one type or the other. Also if you are re-packing, add an hour or two to the job.

As for being intimidated... yea it can be, but I learned from doing. I don't always get it right the first time, but paying a mechanic doesn't get you a guarantee of them not doing the same. Trust me, knowing how many thousands of dollars I have saved, yes easily many thousands, makes all of the headaches worth it. You likely won't agree when you are up to your elbows in CV joint grease, but when the job is done, you will certainly have learned something. Id say go for it.

As for tranny fluid, you don't need it. Hondas use regular motor oil in their manual transmissions. Check your manual, but I think 10w-30 is what you want. Also don't let anyone tell you you need gear oil. That stuff will kill your transmission. Honda's tolerances are too tight to allow the gear oil to get where it needs to.

Dave.

tom p. · 04-08-04, 02:05

Dale, are you buying new, OEM components?

Searchin4acoupe · 04-08-04, 02:26

Quote:

Originally posted by tom p.
The devil you know is better than the one you don't .

Again tom, right on.

Honda's "NEW" are actually rebuilt. I trust Honda's rebuilts, but boy are they pricey.

All this being said, my daily driver is a '92 accord with 245k. If I needed axles, I would likely go get some rebuilts at the local parts store, but don't stoop to the autozone level. That old beater ain't worth "new" axles.