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Old 03-26-02, 10:57   #1 (permalink)
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Washing

by David W. Bynon
<font size="1">Copyright©, 1999-2002, <a target="_blank" href="http://autopia-carcare.com">Autopia Car Care</a> -- All Rights Reserved</font>

Washing is the process of removing loose dirt and road film on the top of your car's paint surfaces. A good car wash solution provides lubrication to prevent scratching and conditioners to maintain the shine.

Washing can be a double-edge sword, though, as even the mildest soaps can remove waxes and sealants from your car's paint, allowing oxidation to begin. Detergents are very harsh and will dull your car's finish if used frequently.

For years, BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari and most other fine automobile makers recommended using only pure water to wash your car. When you find a shampoo you like, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage. Using too much shampoo will cause streaking and reduces the longevity of your wax.__

Here are some tips to make washing easier:

1. Wash the wheels first!

2. Make sure your car is cool and work in the shade, if possible. A hot surface causes the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting. One trick is to park on a slight incline. This allows rinse water to run off moldings, trim, and recessed areas better. Start by thoroughly wetting the car's finish with a medium spray of water to remove loose grit and surface dirt.

3. Use a car wash shampoo specifically formulated for automotive use. Look for a shampoo containing surface conditioners and natural oils. These oils act as a lubricant. Sand and abrasive grit slide off in the rinse water without scratching the surface. These shampoos cost a little more but are worth every penny if you own a dark color car. Follow the shampoo manufacturer's directions for the proper mix ratio. Using too much shampoo is wasteful and may leave a filmy residue on the surface.

4. I prefer a natural (not synthetic) sea sponge, cotton chenille pad, or sheepskin wash mitt for washing. These tools have a large number of fine filaments that draw dirt and grime away from the surface being cleaned into their internal structure. Synthetic (flat sided) sponges and wash clothes can trap dirt, grit, and grime on the surface which can scratch your car's paint. If you use a natural sea sponge, use the outer "soft" side for washing, not the harder "cut" side, and always rinse new sponges thoroughly to remove any remaining sand or shell particles. 100% cotton chenille wash mitts and pads are also excellent as they hold lots of soapy water and are gentle to your paint.

5. Start washing from the top down and rinse the car often. Frequent rinsing is especially important if you are using a wash containing natural oils. While these oils cushion the paint and minimize abrasion they are heavier than water and can leave a film if allowed to set on the car. I use a final rinse of free flowing water (nozzle off the hose) allowing the water to sheet off the car.

<font size="1">All products mentioned in this article are available from <a target="_blank" href="http://properautocare.com">Classic Motoring Accessories</a> and are used at the buyer's own risk.&nbsp; Autopia Car Care is not affiliated with and does not represent Classic Motoring Accessories or the manufacturers of the products mentioned.</font>
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Last edited by DavidB : 12-06-02 at 01:08.
 
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Old 07-09-02, 12:48   #2 (permalink)
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Why wash the wheels first? That would not be washing top-down. Unless you use a separate sponge for the wheels, you'd be dragging wheel grime across your paint.
 
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Old 07-09-02, 12:57   #3 (permalink)
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Washing the wheels first removes the brake dust first. If you wash you car first and then do the wheels you stand a chance of blasting brake dust onto your clean paint. Use a separate wash mitt for wheels.
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Old 07-09-02, 05:50   #4 (permalink)
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Also, my Eagle One A2Z wheel cleaner says to spray onto a dry wheel, so doing it first makes sense. I would assume other wheel cleaners say likewise. This is assuming you don't just wash them with a mitt of course.

You also might as well spray your tire cleaner on at the same time.
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Old 07-09-02, 05:56   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by WTypeRogerX
Why wash the wheels first? That would not be washing top-down. Unless you use a separate sponge for the wheels, you'd be dragging wheel grime across your paint.
Are you using the same "sponge" to wash your wheels as you do your paint!?!:scared
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Old 07-09-02, 05:56   #6 (permalink)
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Dang! That's why the A2Z does not seem to work as well as some people say. I am probably diluting it by wetting the wheel first. Thanks for mentioning it, 4DSC.
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Old 07-09-02, 06:37   #7 (permalink)
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The primary point has been missed. You wash the tires and wheels first because taking the time to do it last allows the car to dry and get water spots.

Always dispose of the wash water used to wash your tires & wheels. Do not use the same wash water on the rest of your car. Keep a set of wash sponges and brushes specifically for your tires and wheels.

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Old 07-09-02, 08:01   #8 (permalink)
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Finally a voice of reason. I have been doing the wheels first approach for years. The rest of the car will be spotted by the time I finish my wheel processing. I simply have two buckets. I fill the larger one with my normal wash solution, then carry outside to the car. I then pour about a quarter to a third of it into a separate bucket with my wheel cleaning tools, and go to work.

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Old 07-12-02, 04:24   #9 (permalink)
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Wheel Cleaner

Do you recommend using car wash soap to wash the wheels? It's cheaper and lasts longer than wheel cleaner and seems to do a decent job if washing regularly. Is the spray-on wheel cleaner too harsh for the wheel clear coat or if it gets on the brakes? I save my spray-on stuff for tar or other unusual stuff stuck to the wheels.
 
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Old 07-12-02, 07:16   #10 (permalink)
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I have not had a problem with my painted/clearcoated wheels when I have a coat of a good polymer on them. I tend to use Klasse AIO. If you keep up with them, then the brake dust almost washes off with water. I would never use cleaner on them, unless I have neglected them, and that is, well, never. This is despite the fact that I have relatively dusty pads on (Axis Ultimates).

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Old 05-21-03, 12:45   #11 (permalink)
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I had a few questions... firt off, when rinsing the car, how much pressure should one use from the hose? I don't have a nozzle, and the water (hard water) comes out quite gently and doesn't do much to the dirt on the surface. Should I get a nozzle?

Also, How often should we wax the cars? I am thinking a few times a year for my car, and maybe just once or twice a year for my dad's, as it is garaged. Is there anything wrong with washing the car every week but only waxing once a year? Will the car's finish get hurt?

I am also interested in the quick detailers for my car, as it gets dirty every day and it would be nice to just spray it rather than washing it too often.

I also am wondering about a couple other issues...

I live in Boston and our cars get dirty very easily... mine in particular as it sits outside and gets covered with dirt and pollen all the time. Hand washing my car seems like it might be futile, as it would get dirty within an hour and there is so much dirt so often that I am hesitant to touch the paint with anything.

So I ask... how do you feel about car washes? There is a car wash in Allston, MA called Allston Car Wash ( http://www.allstoncarwash.com ) that I hear great things about from enthusiasts in similar positions, who would rather pay 10 bucks once a month to get it washed than trying uselessly to hand wash it all the time. This car wash is well known across the country, and I am sort of tempted to try it out. Is it a bad idea?
 
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Old 05-21-03, 10:38   #12 (permalink)
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I use as much force from just the water to get dirt off. I figure that there is possible damage from the water hitting (minor scratches from dirt sliding around) or you could drag it around with a towel/wash mitt.

I can't help you much on your problem with pollen/dust; I have the same problem. Many people here seem to like the CCD (California Car Duster) which is basically a wax-embeded mop. It takes the dust with it without too much scratching. It seems that people CCD their cars then quick detail it.

Depending on what wax you use, you might be able to get away with waxing once or twice a year, but that is only with certain waxes. Examples of these are Klasse and Zaino. They are not your typical waxes that you will find in stores. They are very durable and don't have cleaners in them so they can be layered (built up). Most waxes found in stores are cleaner waxes which remove some or all of the previous layer while you are applying the next.

Getting the proper stuff to wash helps speed the process. Call me a geek, but I have a hose running on each side of my car while washing. This way, I don't have to drag it around, or worse, fling it and have it hit the paint. If I were smart, I could have a bucket on each side of the car too. Rinsing your wash mitt before you dip back in your bucket helps keep your soapy water clean and prevents scratches. A nozzle will help because the water won't be running all the time. Also, you can get some better pressure out of it. When starting out the wash and rinsing, I usually end up spraying full blast right before the stream goes into a straight line. Also, before you put your hose away, just let the water run over the car...if it is well waxed and repelling water well, it should roll right off the car instead of beading up when you spray. This saves time in drying and you don't have to drag a towel across the entire car. With the right wax, I find waxing fun. A very clean (meaning no bonded contaminants) is much more fun to wax. Claying your car gets rid of these bonded contaminants and makes your paint really smooth. If your car feels rough at all, clay may be the ticket for you. Once you are satisfied, you may wax your surface.

Woah, off to write my paper for English class...I wish I could write it about detailing.
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