Cleaning with Clay - Page 2

DavidB · 03-18-03, 04:25

We're all familiar with how dish washing detergent dries our hands and makes our skin red and chapped. It does the same to rubber, vinyl and plastic (to a lesser extent). There's no way to treat all of the rubber... you can only treat what is exposed.

asjk07 · 03-18-03, 04:37

Quote:

Originally posted by DavidB
Even when I use Zaino polish, I clean my paint with a non-abrasive pre-wax cleaner, not with Dawn. Sal's right, Dawn used before polishing won't hurt the paint. It's not the paint I'm worried about... it's the rubber, vinyl and plastic.

db

I couldn't agree more.

I get best results when using a paint cleaner, regardless of the final protectant I plan to use.

AlBoston · 03-18-03, 05:36

david, what "non abrasive pre-wax cleaner" do you use? I would be interested to know, as i also dislike dawn.

prowler · 03-18-03, 05:52

What am I missing here? As I understand the Zaino process:

1. Drive the new car home from the dealer.
2. First wash with Dawn.
3. Clay with Zaino carwash/lubricant.
4. Zaino system after that (including clay, as needed, with Zaino carwash/lubricant).

I can't imagine any damage being done with ONE washing using Dawn in the life of the car.

AlBoston · 03-21-03, 05:33

Quote:

Originally posted by AlBoston
david, what "non abrasive pre-wax cleaner" do you use? I would be interested to know, as i also dislike dawn.

david?

DavidB · 03-21-03, 07:11

I like a few products:

1. P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
2. Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish
3. Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
4. Platinum Polish

Take your pick... they are all a low abrasive polish (less than one micron polishing particle) and have a low solvent level.

Mirror · 03-22-03, 03:40

Hey David,

I use Swissol. I've found it better than Zymol.

I use a 3M clay bar, and lube it with the car wash I use. Then wash the car again.

Then I use 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze by hand.

The Zymol HD Clense. (This is an awesome cleaner.)

Then Swissol Clener-fluid pre-wax oil

Then two coats of Swissol Canuba.

I pick up my new M5 in about 4 weeks and I am going to detail myself.

Question, After they have gernied it to remove the shipping wax etc, I will wash it again. I feel that I should clay the paintwork next.

A lot of people say not to clay brand new paint work. But I believe it will be filthy and the clay will bring out its true colour. Whats your take on this.

DavidB · 03-22-03, 08:34

Mirror, congrats on your new M5. What a great machine.

I think new cars should be clayed to that you can remove contamination and put down a good layer of protection. Clay will not harm new paint, if that's what people are thinking.

BTW, I have old pictures of swissol products in the original "Zymol" packaging. Seems to me there is some connection.

Yes, you're right, I forgot to mention HD-Cleanse. However, I do believe the original HD-Cleanse formula (Meguiar's version) is much better than the current product.

db

Mirror · 03-22-03, 02:34

Thanks for your reply david,

I too think that swissol is very similar to zymol.

They look and smell the same. Only difference is, zymol says DO NOT let dry when applying, whereas swissol says to let it dry for 5 to 10 minutes before buffing off.

I had a phone call after applying an area with swissol, and din't get to remove it for 1 hour, and it came off fine. I wouldn't like to do that with zymol.

So I prefer swissol because I like to take my time. I feel rushed with a product that says do not let dry.

Also I have noticed that swissol gives an instant result. It is silky smooth and awesome immediately, whereas zymol doesn't feel as good until the next day.

I intend on waxing my beast every Sunday. I love the awesome feel after it has been waxed. But after just one wash, I notice about a 30% decrease in feel. It still looks awesome, but it doesn't have that silky feel.

Airborne Ranger · 03-24-03, 08:10

ok I posted over in detailing forum about this and now I am lost bigtime. I attacked my Ranger today, wash, clay, polish (2) and wax (1). Claying is what bothred me. Today was my first time ever using a clay bar on any vehicle, so mine was the guniea pig (1998 Ford Ranger Flareside) I like Prowax Products but I'm not so sure If I like them anymore or maybe it's just me????????????

Getting to the point, I used there Clay Away4 on the finish, I used there C-19 Cherry Suds as the lub for the clay. As I begin to rub along the paint, I'm not feeling anything. Just nothing, like the clay bar isn't picking up anything. I was told by a fellow member here that your not supposed to feel anything, but the clay bar is working. Then I was told by other fellow members that they didn't have any trouble using a car wash as the lub because I thought while claying my Ranger, that the car wash was making the surface to slippery and not grabbing anything out of the paint. Finally, I was told by another friend of mine that your not supposed to use a Car Wash when claying, because clay bars work better when there used with a QD as the lubricant. Someone just please give me a simple straight answer, this is very confusing and frustrating. Thank you,,,,,,,,,,91

DavidB · 03-24-03, 09:33

91,

Here's the straight scoop:

1. Most companies who sell clay "claim" they don't contain abrasives. That's just not factual. All clay bar products use a 3 micron or better abrasive particle suspended in a plastic clay or elastic clay (poly) base.

2. What makes clay work is that you evenly distribute the abrasive over a large area with even pressure. Without a lubricant, clay would stick to the paint surface. When you add a lubricant, the clay is suspended over the paint surface by hydraulic force (the liquid). Any contaminates sticking up above the thin film of lubricant are filed (sheered) off by the clay. Some people claim the clay pulls contamination off, and this is likely with some material, but for the most part it is filed off.

3. The lubricant you use is very important. I personally do not like to use quick detailing sprays as a lubricant. I don't believe most QD sprays provide enough slip. Some evaporate too fast. I highly recommend a lubricant designed for clay. A car wash solution works okay, but it creates too much foam for my liking.

4. You will not always "feel" the clay working. Having any tactile sense from the clay will depend on the clay formula, your lubricant and the level of contamination on the paint. The most important thing is to check your work often. Never make more than 4 or 5 passes over an area without drying, feeling and inspecting your clay. Knead your clay often to provide a new surface. Pre-lubricate your clay by sprayng your clay bar and the paint surface.

db

Mirror · 03-24-03, 10:07

Relax 91, I've always used car wash whilst claying, and your right. You don't tend to feel much whilst using it. What you should be feeling is how smooth the paint work is after a couple of runs.

Then feel ahead and you'll feel the tiny bits of grit. Then after claying those tiny bits are gone.