my maintenance washes. ONR and foam gun

[Grouse]

Since others posted theirs, here are my tutorials

It is all about the wash.

How you wash a car determines how it looks. Most know that auto carwashes induce marring, swirling and promote a large amount of defects. Hand washing can also induce those shame issues. Using good procedures and policies when washing will go a long way to ensuring that your paint finish, trim, glass, wheels and tires will look the best they can for as long as they can. Before I go much further I want to stipulate that if you put 10 guys in a room and ask how to wash a car you will get 10 different ways to wash a car.

So what then is the correct way? Well there are many depending on what your situation is. I am going to cover how I do a basic wash in a driveway. I’ll include steps, pictures, and as best I can an intelligent concise post.

Materials:

6 plain yellow costco microfiber
1-2 Buckets
1 sheepskin wash mitt
1 foam gun
2-4 oz of car wash soap
1 waffle weave drying towel.
1 spritzer of detail spray
1 detail buffing Microfiber towel
1 hose and nozzles

A little bit about these materials.

Yellow costco microfibers are a great cheap alternative to the more expensive micro’s. I do not like to use them on paint. That being said they work excellent on wheels, door jambs, trunk lids, tires, wheel wells and engine bays.

Buckets are pretty self explanatory. One bucket for rinse water, one bucket for soapy water. By keeping those two separate you will keep as much of the paint damaging dirt out of your wash solution as possible. I prefer my rinse bucket to have a Grit Guard. This helps settle the dirt you clean off your car into the bottom of the bucket without cross contaminating your soapy water bucket.

Sheep skin mitts are very soft and supple. I prefer them over manmade sponges and mitts because they wick the dirt into the fiber, but easily rinse the dirt free when drenched in a rinse bucket. Manmade mitts, sponges, micro fiber, cotton terry, chenille do not generally rinse free. This gives them a higher likely hood of inducing marring on your paint.

Foam Guns are a way to eliminate the soapy water bucket. They hold your car wash solution in the gun and aerate the spray as you soap down the car and mitt. The foam gun gives you an unparalleled amount of paint protecting foam for washing. Washing with a foam is not really faster, but it is less likely to induce marring when done well.

Car wash soap, what an endless discussion this could be. Suffice it to say that some soap will over time remove more of your sealant or wax layer than others. Most soaps have some foaming action and some detergent. Try a few out. I uses megs gold class, sonus, optimum no rise, poor boys super suds and a few others.

Waffle weave drying towels are shaped like a waffle. This allows them to scoop up excess moisture and pull it off the vehicle with little or no streaking. It is also much softer than a terry towel and less likely to induce marring.

Detail spray is about as controversial of a topic as car soap. After you wash you may notice that some of the slickness to the finish or wax is gone. A detail spray after you wash goes a long way to restoring that slickness and giving a shine to any luster and gloss that may have been lost.

Buffing microfibers are very dense thick micro’s that help give a luster and shine without inducing marring. Because they are thicker you can usually use one per detail spray versus 2-3 costco micro’s.

Hoses and fittings. I like a quick release setup, one that includes attachments to the foam gun, soap bottle, and stream nozzle.

1) Fill up your rinse bucket and put in 4 of your 6 yellow mf towels.

2) Spray rinse off your wheels, tires, and wheel wells. The more dirt, grime, brake dust you rinse off the less you have to clean. Take a min or two to remove as much as you can.

3) Foam down the wheels, tires, and wheel wells. Turn up the lather as much as you like. Give this a second to start to suspend the dirt and grime from those areas.

4) Spray down your first MF towel. Use one towel per wheel/wheel well. Start from the outside edge of the wheel (where a wheel gets curbed). From the out sided edge clean the lip or flat fascia. From the fascia clean the out side edges or flanges. Work your way in to the dirtiest parts. The idea is to clean the lip and fascia first. If you clean the lip and fascia last you risk damaging them with all of the built up brake dust and grime that is in your mf towel. Then scrub the tire very well, not just simply a rub the tire but fold the rag and give it a scrub. I rarely use a brush as many wheels have very soft chrome, aluminum, polished, anodized lips that are very easy to damage with even the softest brush.

This is the result of me cleaning two of my wheels, tires, wheel wells.
[img]http://www.pbase.com/dsgrouse/image/70361406.jpg[img]
5) Hose down the rest of the car. Use the pressure of the nozzle to blast off loose bits of junk and leaves. Use this time to examine those areas that may need extra attention during washing. Bug splatters, road tar, road grime, road antifreeze goo etc etc.

6) Foam gun the roof, windows and mitt. I had to spray the mitt on the car for the photo, normally I spray both sides of the mitt.


7) Wash the roof in straight lines. No circular motions. Once you have washed the section of the roof flip the mitt over and wash it 90* straight lines. I do not actually put my hand in the mitt. I feel that when your hand is in the mitt you are prone to scrubbing the paint with way more pressure than is needed. This leads to quite a bit of marring. I generally hold the mitt like I would a basket ball. By using just your finger tips you have just enough pressure to wash the car without scratching it. Once you have washed the roof, wash all of the exterior windows and door/window trim. Be sure to dip the mitt in the rinse bucket and massage any dirt or grime out. An example of washing it by straight lines.


8) Re foam the car and mitt. Continue to wash the car never going below the 50% or lower door trim. Basically that is the dirtiest parts of the car. Wash the upper third or half first. Remember to flip the mitt and was at 90 degree straight lines. That insures you remove even the smallest amount of dirt, yes it is washing the section twice. Once you have finished the upper half to third, start on the lowers, bumper, grills, of the car. After each section rinse the mitt thoroughly to ensure no dirt or grime contamination. Re foam and continue with the same 2 step wash as the rest of the car.

9) Once the car is washed spray the entire car off with the nozzle. I like to rinse it off this way first as it allows me to see if any soap has dried or I need to hit a section again. You can see in the following pictures the remaining water and moisture. Notice how well it beads. IT looks great like this but it is a pain to dry. You end up spending as much time ringing out the towels as you did washing the car.



10) Remove the nozzle off the hose, turn down the hose pressure and slowly chase the water off the car. This is called sheet rinsing. It causes the water to pull its self off the car by surface tension. Leaving the vehicle most of the way dry with very little to actually dry. Here is the car after sheet rinsing.



11) Lay out your waffle weave microfiber towel. Slowly drag the towel across the painted surfaces first. This will allow it time to soak up the extra water still on the paint. Continue till the paint is dry, and then finish the windows.




12) As I said above after a wash sometimes the slickness, luster and gloss are slightly diminished. This is the time to apply detail spray. Fold you super plush microfiber into eighth’s and then apply 3-4 good sprays of detail spray to the towel. The reason you apply it to the towel is you will use less product, have less streaking and have to work the product less. After application work the product over a panel and then flip the MF to a dry side and buff it clear of any streaking. Continue working like this till the car is done. You may find you need to unfold and refold the towel to a section of it that is not soaked in detail spray.

Finished car.

[Grouse]

Part two ONR wash (a brief tutorial)

The scenario.

You live in an appartment with no access to a hose bib, or maybe your appartment complex does not allow onsite washes.

You live in a condo down town where your car is in a lower level parking garage. The garage does not have proper drainage or fixtures for washing a car.

It is 20 degrees outside. Your car has been through two weeks of slush and you can not stand looking at the dusty vehicle any more. But you can not wash it outside, and you know a detail spray wash will induce marring.

You have just driven 600 miles durring a club sponsered drive. The car looks like it is a electric bug zapper.

What are the benifits of a Optimum no rinse wash?
1) it can be done indoors/garage.
2) it can be done with a very small foot print, IE a parking space.
3) It is compact enough to be carried with you on a long road trip and used at motel or venue.
4) It is far less likely to induce marring compared to a tunnel car wash.
5) it is less likely to induce marring compared to a detail spray wash.

What are the down sides.
1) It is more likely to induce marring compared to my foam gun car wash.
2) The first few times it can be quite unnerving.

What supplies you need
(1) 5 gallon bucket with grit gaurd.
(1) 2 gallon bucket
(1) 8oz bottle of Optimum no rinse
(1) 16 oz sprizer bottle
(1) paint stirrer stick
(5-10) Microfiber wash towels or 2 sheep skin mitts.
(1) Waffle weave drying towel.



Step one:
Your five gallon bucket is your rinse bucket. You will wring out your mitt or wash towel in here. Your two gallon bucket is your wash solution. Your 16 oz spritzer is full of wash solution to prep heavily soiled areas.
First fill your buckets and spritzer with warm/hot water


Step Two:
2 oz of optimum no rinse goes in your solution bucket, 1 oz goes in your rinse bucket, and 1/2 oz goes into your spritzer bottle.
Use the paint stirrer mix the buckets.


Step Three:
Pre soak your wash towel in your wash solution. Spray down a 12x12 inch to 18x18 inch area with your spritzer bottle. Then lightly ring out the wash towel and wipe down the panel with very light pressure. Besure to use straight lines.

The car before





Step 4:
Put the wash rag in the rinse bucket. Rub and squeeze out the dirt in the rag completely. Re soak in wash solution and move on to the next area. As a towel no longer rinses clean grab a new one.

Before shot of one panel



After shots



A few more side by side shots.


Bumper



Step 5:
Spray down the tires and rims. Including the inside of the rim. Wash the tire, rim face. Then wrap the towel around the paint stick use this to clean the inside of the wheel. Grab a new towel for each rim.

Final shots





For those wondering here is the total foot print of water left on my garage floor.



Special thanks to redmond rocket for supplying the mazda speed 6

[Scottwax]

Excellent write-up and pictures, Aaron.

I do disagree on one point though and I thing with regularly using ONR you will eventually agree...for me, I am less likely to induce maring while washing with ONR vs conventionally because I work a smaller area and without the suds, I can more easily see what I am doing.

[Grouse]

Yes, I think that is an extremely valueable point for detailers. I wrote these for those who are not detailers. I put that extra bit of caution in there for a reason. As everyone i have guided towards ONR seems to think they should scrub more.

:S

[Scottwax]

Originally Posted by Grouse

As everyone i have guided towards ONR seems to think they should scrub more.

True but I guess once they see how ONR eats dirt, they will learn, right?

[Grouse]

LOL one would hope so. I was bombarded with about a dozen requests for help on how to wash their car if they live in an appartment, condo, flat with under ground garage or simply in their garage when it was to cold. I wrote this to better explain ONR to the local forum i advertise on. To be truthfull i have only used ONR a dozen or so times. I am still learning the ins and outs. What it can do and what its limitations are.

[Mark77]

Nice writeup. But why MFs to wash the wheels and tires? It's hard to reach behind the spokes and I have noticed wheels don't mar that easily. I just use a sponge and two brushes for the tires, wheels and wheel wells.
As for ONR washes, I have tried it a couple of times but I still feel the car isn't very clean, like taking a shower vs just wiping yourself down with a cloth. maybe it's just in my head, but to be true, a hose is very handy to clean hard to reach parts.

[Grouse]

Originally Posted by Mark77

Nice writeup. But why MFs to wash the wheels and tires? It's hard to reach behind the spokes and I have noticed wheels don't mar that easily. I just use a sponge and two brushes for the tires, wheels and wheel wells.
As for ONR washes, I have tried it a couple of times but I still feel the car isn't very clean, like taking a shower vs just wiping yourself down with a cloth. maybe it's just in my head, but to be true, a hose is very handy to clean hard to reach parts.

Mark77,

I understand what you are saying about wheels. Here is why i do what i do. Best practices process should be sufficient to clean the filthiest car and a show car. The steps you use should ensure best quality of work along with highest care of the vehicle. I do a few cars that roll on One Off HRE's. Using a brush on these rims will induce marring. So i use a seperate microfiber towel per rim.

I start with soaking the rim in onr or car soap.

I then soak the MF.

I then clean the bead of the rim where it touches the tire.

I then clean the lip.
Rinse & resoap mf

I then clean the face of the rim.
Rinse & resoap mf

From the face i clean the sides of the spokes
Rinse & resoap mf

I then clean the foot of the spokes
Rinse & resoap mf

I then clean the back of the spokes by hand.
Rinse & resoap mf

I then wrap the MF around a paint stirring stick. Being sure to fold the end over on its self to ensure no wood will poke through.
Soap down the stick.

I thean clean about 1/4 of the inner wheel.
I flip the stick over and clean the next 1/4

I rinse and soap down the stick again.
I clean the two remaining 1/4's the same way.

Rinse & resoap mf
I then clean the tire facia with the MF.

Rinse & resoap mf
i then clean the fender well with the mf

I rinse the whole set up. I then set that MF asside and grab a new one for the next wheel.

Why do i do this? Because it works for me. It is the same process, same steps with highest care for the rim. It ensures that even a 3k rim does not get damaged, and that a 50 dollar steel rim neglected for 17 years comes clean. Is it fast? Not really a set of rims can take me 45 min to 2 hours depending on the rim and soiling. My customers appriciate the care and quality i take/give regardless of the car and rim.

[BaseSteala112]

Very nice write-ups Grouse. I learned a little something.

[BigHonu]

Thanks for the great write-up!

[Roger V]

Why did you recommend 8oz of ONR. Where does it all go? Did I miss something?

[themightytimmah]

Great writeup Grouse... one thing I noticed is that you use a lot less water during ONR than I do - I like to keep the mitts pretty soaked and I usually end up with a pretty decent puddle around the car. I'll have to try it your way.