Waxing in the sun..

spiroh · 03-15-02, 02:08

I know you can use Zaino in the sun, but can you Quick detail a car in the sun? Can you use Klasse in the sun?

Thanks,

spiro

BradE · 03-15-02, 02:11

You should not use Klasse in the sun if you don't have to. You can use a QD in the sun, but you are going to use up more product and likely to get streaks and smears....especially if it's caranuba based.

joed1228 · 03-15-02, 02:11

You can do whatever you want in the sun. They just say don't wax in the sun because you got the meat head that will take his black car out in the alabama heat thats 100 degrees and let his car sit there all afternoon which heats up enough to cook a t-bone on the hood and then applies the wax only to see it won't bond right, then he calls up Turtle Wax and yells and screams and they tell him it's his fault but he says it didn't say it on the bottle so they go to court and lose money and have to put warnings on everything...... WHEW, I need a breather.

Nah, your safe man, just don't detail in the really really hot weather unless you have shade.

Guess My Name · 03-15-02, 02:14

What Showroom said.

EOM

geekysteve · 03-15-02, 02:41

I disagree somewhat with the heat/sun issue, and please, don't take this as confrontational at all...but...

If the ambient temperature is around 65F, and the sun is shining bright, the surface temperature of a painted car (especially a dark car) can easily exceed 90F. The surface of the car will get warmer as the ambient temp increases, so if it's 80F outside and sunny, expect your car's temperature to be well over 100F.

Anyway, there are solvents and carriers in most wax products that have different levels of tolerance for extreme heat. I'm not sure that I'm using the correct wording here, but some of them can "flash" too quickly and bond with the paint in a terrible way. Best case, you'll get streaking and a product that's hard to remove. Worst case, well, it ain't pretty.

I know from experience, as I've been to numerous car shows where some guy will be waxing his Black car in the direct sunlight and you'll hear him cursing as he's trying to remove the product...and these are spring car shows (temps in the low 70's).

If possible, use shade. If it's too sunny, I'd reconsider the detailing for another day- it's just not worth the risk.

Finally, when I was a tech at the Ford dealer, customer cars would sit in the sun all day long with the windows rolled up and the plastic protectors on the steering wheels/seats/floors. On the really hot days (85+), we couldn't even touch the steering wheels, because the plastic would burn us (so would the dash, etc). Just for kicks, I took my Techtronix temperature meter out with me a few times, and temperatures over 160F were not uncommon on the dash, steering wheel and paint of the cars!

joed1228 · 03-15-02, 02:51

Well to tell you the truth, I used to detail my Saturn in the July shade, just as hot as the sun your explaining and before June and after July I would always detail directly in the sun. I never had a problem removing stuff, from what your saying, maybe I could remove specific products alot easier if I detailed in the shade.

I'll give it a shot, I'm always open to try something new, espically if it'll make things work better for me.

Intermezzo · 03-15-02, 03:06

Joed, you must have popeye forearms and softball sized delts! I for one, wouldn't even consider using anything (except Zaino) under the sun.

03-15-02, 07:53

I agree with those who mention heat/bonding.

I have an Omega hand held pocket IR thermometer. This past winter I would back the car into the sun to warm up the surface. At ambient 42-54 F the surface temp reached 94-101 on the hood and roof while keeping 38Fon the side out of the sun.

This temp differential had pronounced effects on my carnuba QDs , especially the PCM. I plan to keep my surface lower than 110 when doin' my Klasse/Souveran thng next weekend.

Also blazing saturated UV rad can't e cool with uncured polymers.

DETAILKING · 03-15-02, 11:59

On average, the more volitile (quick to evaporate) the solvents are (which are usually harsher), the more difficult the product will be to use in the sun. The carriers will dry out and flash off too fast and the product will dry before it is applied uniformly.

Zaino has spoiled me though, it always comes off easy as butter no matter how long it sits in the sun........

Scottwax · 03-16-02, 12:06

As a mobile detailer, I often have to work in the direct sun and I am in Texas. If shade is available, I will work in it, but sometimes, I don't have a choice. I usually use Meguiars #26 (liquid) and I have yet to have any real problems removing it even on 100 degree days. I just use a little less and don't try to cover a large area at once. I work in smaller sections so the wax won't have time to dry while I am spreading it.

If a car needs anything more than a swirl remover, then I make sure I have shade. Working paint with a cleaner or compound in the sun leads to swirls and scratching, even when working by hand.

Don2000g · 03-17-02, 02:08

Scott makes a good point. Using Klasse in the sun is not something that I'd recommend but it can be done. It may require a bit more buffing though. But it shouldn't be too serious though, especially if you're using very thin layers and working in small areas. Laters

YoSteve · 03-17-02, 12:56

they have sun in Chicago?

all I can say is that polymers have to go through both physical and chemical reactions, heat will change that rate (apparently it doesn't effect or helps Zaino). if you want to detail in the sun just make sure your paint doesn't get too hot to the touch, you'll find out really quickly if it's bad or not. The proof is in the pudding, that you will be struggling to remove off your paint.