Question: License plate holder...

[titus]

on my new SUV is going to scratch the paint. :scared Every time I closed the hatch, I could hear the license plate frame hit. Put some tape on the plastic frame but it's a temp thing, eh?. Looked in the local Marts and auto places but all they had were plastic frames. Searched Autopia, no joy. Searched the net, found all kinds of plate frames and holders: brass, stainless, plastic, logo'd, engraved, painted-to-match, 'traveling' LED lights, neons (with built-in 12v. transformers), vacuum operated holders that flipped the plate horizontal "...for a better look" and even something called 'licence plate holders' (whatever they are). But nothing that would prevent scratches (sigh).

I remember years ago I had a coupla Chevys (gas fill behind the rear plate) that had rubber bumpers on the factory plate holder. So, my question is, "What do you Autopians have that prevents this problem? Now that y'all have got me started on watching what I park next to, eyeballing loose carts in the supermart yards and shooing cats, give me succor.

My wife suggested "...gluing those screen thingys" onto the back of the plate frames (she meant vinyl screen splines). Although that WOULD work, I wonder if there just isn't something out there, more elegant?

[We're Here]

Actually, there is a great product out there for this problem. I had a similar problem with a plate frame, the plate and the studs of our ML. I finally dispensed with even considering bolting the lower portion of the plate/frame, however this caused a racket over even small bumps. I went to Home Depot and found clear soft plastic "buttons" that are designed to prevent cabinet doors from whacking each other. They come on a card with a dozen or more (depending on size). The adhesive is great and they probably could be used in a number of problem areas because they are so unobtrusive. Great product and my plate/frame hasn't rattled since. I'd probably place one each on the finish at the two possible points of contact.

[bretfraz]

Originally posted by We're Here
I went to Home Depot and found clear soft plastic "buttons" that are designed to prevent cabinet doors from whacking each other. They come on a card with a dozen or more (depending on size). The adhesive is great and they probably could be used in a number of problem areas because they are so unobtrusive. Great product and my plate/frame hasn't rattled since. I'd probably place one each on the finish at the two possible points of contact.

That's a great idea!!

I was going to suggest using foam tape (comes in strips, sticky on one side). Since it doesn't sound like it will be visible you won't have to worry about the looks. And the foam will be a nice shock cushion. But those little buttons would work fine, IMO.

[fenrir]

I went to Pep Boys and in the section where they have the packs of screws and assorted things. I got a pack of little rubber bumpers that fit right in the bottom screw holes.

[C240]

You can go to a car stereo shop and buy a good size piece of dynamat and use a hair dryer and it will stick to the back of your license plate. This will keep it from rattling and will leave enough clearance so it doesn't touch the painted surface behind it.

[4mo]

I went to auto store and got a section of 1/4" fuel line.

I then cut the line to look like 1/4"-1/2" thick donuts using a utility knife. I used them as standoffs for the back of the plate (Screw goes through the middle of the donut). I also installed black cover ups on top of the screws them self. I will try to find a link to the site where I got them.

So basically I have a plate that is about 1/4" away from the car with nice black buttons instead of the nasty screw heads.


I will try to get a picture of it.

[4mo]

Here is the best I could do. A link to Cruiser Accessories.

Cruiser Accessories Screw Covers

[Brad]

I have adhesive rubber bumpers behind all the plates on my cars. They keep them quiet and do not allow them to touch the paint. Another side benefit is that the water and dirt doesn't collect/ get trapped back there so much. You can get them in the household section of any WalMart or similar store. They make several colors and shapes and thicknesses.

While on the subject of license plates, be sure to trash your stock hardware and get stainless hardware. I prefer stainless allen head bolts for a clean modern look. Get them at the hardware store. You may have to cut them to length.

[4mo]

Stainless is a good point Brad. I forgot to mention upgrading the crap the stealer throws on.

Let me put it this way, the poor guy at the hardware store was glad to see me go.

[titus]

Good ideas, guys! I'll get some rubber (vinyl?) bumpers tomorrow. Gotta make up some standoffs and get stainless hardware, too. Thank goodness, Florida only has one plate. I can imagine buying a box of stainless washers and working up half a dozen standoffs.

[RobTex]

I, too, had noticed that the dealer plastic frame on my new car's rear was ultimately going to scratch my paint. It's ugly anyway since it has dealer advertising on it. I thought about getting an aftermarket frame, but I'm not sure there's enough clearance for it. There might be if I use the rubber "stand-off" method described above. I had thought about doing that with several nylon washers, but the 1/4" fuel line method sounds good, too, with the rubber bumpers at the unscrewed bottom portion of the plate. I may just leave it "naked" without a frame; haven't decided yet.

What really chaps me though is that there is a prominent black plastic plate holder on the front bumper, and when I got ready to screw my new license plate in, I find there are no screw holes. So I'm forced to either drill some holes and mount it with nylon or stainless bolts, or I guess I could use some self-tapping machine screws. In either case I gotta be careful not to impact the painted bumper cover underneath. I couldn't believe it didn't come with the holes.

[Acuracer]

Just lose the plates altogether! Easier to clean back there...But then you gotta

Drive It Like You Stole It!