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Old 07-19-06, 10:35   #1 (permalink)
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Angry Dealership painted my hood, then buffed.

My dealership painted my hood because I was getting too many chips for no apparent reason. They had the car for 8 days. They waxed and buffed the entire car. It looks okay, except for the hood that had just been painted. I don't know how many days the paint cured before buffing. The hood is very badly swirled. Worse than anything I've ever seen. Pictures don't do it justice. When is it safe to buff a repainted surface? Is this more swirled because the paint is so new? I have a PC, and would like to buff it out, but if this is ruined, I don't want to give the dealership reason not to pay for it. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Mike
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Old 07-19-06, 10:54   #2 (permalink)
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If its swirled REAL bad, take it back and make them do it. If it isnt too bad, go ahead and polish it, just dont seal or wax it.
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I recently had SSR2.5 on toast for breakfast, was tasty and it polished my teeth!
 
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Old 07-20-06, 06:12   #3 (permalink)
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It does make a prety patern on your hood doesn't it.. take it back and evey time you go to leave hit it with a IPA wipe down in full sun to make sure they did a good job
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Old 07-20-06, 06:26   #4 (permalink)
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No, don't take it back to them - very unlikely they'll be able to get it right...they'll simply remove more paint and you'll be right back where you started...though I guess this isn't a huge issue since re-paints are usually on there real thick, which is a good thing (though you'll find your hood will still chip easily, as repaints never stick as good).

Bring you car to an experienced professional detailer and pay him the $75 (or whatever) to perform a two- or three-step process on your hood. The key is to find a "good" detailer.

And I believe you regarding the picture...it's hard to get halograms to show up, yet I can clearly see them on your hood).
 
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Old 07-20-06, 06:30   #5 (permalink)
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Actually, if you find somebody really good, have him/her buff you're entire car out so it matches (always looks funny when you have one real shinny and swirl-free panel along side dull and swirreled-up panels).

Somebody on here ought to be able to help you find someone good in your area, or let us give you the questions to ask which should help - maybe 1 in 10 so called "professionals" can do black properly...sad as it is.

Once you have it all tuned up, find a detailer that will come and wash your vehicle for $30-$35 (hopefully one that knows how to wash black vehicles). Or even better yet, do the necessary research on this board and make yourself a "washing expert" and wash it your self - any other washing alternatives will tear your paint up (especially the hood, which is now softer paint). Proper washing is the key!
 
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Old 07-20-06, 06:31   #6 (permalink)
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true enough tell us where you live and we can help ya out.
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Old 07-20-06, 02:33   #7 (permalink)
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There were a few holograms in the trunk lid. I used my PC and buffed them out. It looks perfect now. I think I will buff it myself. None of you recommended that which surprised me. I definitely can do a better job than most around here. I live in a very rural area of NW PA. I'm going to try a light buff tonight. Thank for all the replies,oh, and "inside", my original post has a picture with it.
 
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Old 07-20-06, 02:40   #8 (permalink)
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Normally, swirls that bad need a rotary and an experienced detailer to remove. However, fresh paint is very soft so a PC should do the trick if you get it in now. You can seal the paint with FK2180 immediately after polishing, it will allow fresh paint to outgass. Avoid using a carnuba-based product for 3-4 months.
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Old 07-20-06, 02:43   #9 (permalink)
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You can handle it yourself. Trust me... body guy left my whole car like this or worse:

http://members.cox.net/garyh151/TA/b2.jpg

Mine came right out and looks great.

Process:
3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound 39002 on Lake Country Yellow
Meg's Speed Glaze #80 on LC White

Before you go straight to 3M... give SSR2.5 or Meg's DACP or equivalent a shot on an Orange pad.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 07-20-06, 02:45   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themightytimmah
Avoid using a carnuba-based product for 3-4 months.
I thought it was more like 30 days?
 
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Old 07-20-06, 02:56   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew.haynes
I thought it was more like 30 days?
90 days...and don't use SSR 2.5 as it contains silicones
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Old 07-20-06, 03:05   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awahl63
90 days...and don't use SSR 2.5 as it contains silicones
Guess it's time to cross my fingers then. I used SSR 2.5 on my new paint about 35-45 days after it was done.. now a week or so later than that I've got some AIO and #26 on it. If it wasn't done curing... what should I be expecting?
 
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