Optimum Compound / Polish - picture and question

needoptic · 04-22-06, 05:26

Ok, so I started my detailing quest today.

Using the Porter Cable and Optimum Compound / Optimum Polish and 2 orange cutting pads...

First - it's a PITA to do a black Touareg. I was only able to do one whole side and the hood. Ugh. I'll be working on the other side one of these comming weekends.

First of all - I'm happy.

Second - the orange pad doesn't seem to be able to handle the deeper swirls / scratches with the Optimum Compound. What would be the natural next step? Higher speeds? Nastier cutting pad?

Third - how long am I supposed to be working a single application of polish or the compound? People say till it "breaks down". I still have no clue what they mean. What exactly is a sign of it breaking down? How long ? A minute? Two?

Fourth - at first I did it at slow speeds. Then I tried doing it at higher speeds and moving the tool faster, too.

What should I be doing? Is there a recommended setting ?

Like I said - it came out ok, but I think I could have done better and in less time. But given that it was my first attempt at orbital work - it came out ok.

Also - I REALLY need to get more buffing towels. Ugh, I ran out midway and then it starts leaving oily streaks everywhere.

And the final question - how many "approaches" with the optimum polish should I do before I can say the finish is deep enough? I notice that there is "clouding" when using the optimum compound and the orange pad. The polish seems to fix this with the orange pad, too, but looks like I need to do it twice.

But this, again, is that question about time and "break down".

gmblack3a · 04-22-06, 07:12

I have never used any of the Optimum products. On Menzerna I work it till it almost looks dry. You will have less to remove. Also don't be afraid of 5.5-6 on the PC. Do that with slow passes and a good amount of pressure on the pad. Sounds like you have reached the limit of the PC when talking about deeper scratches. You may want to get a pad with less bite to use with the polish.

Your results look very good.

Bence · 04-22-06, 07:52

So, a few steps as guidelines:

- Optimum products are very user friendly and break down easily - if you don't over-apply them
- Over-application reduces their effectivity because the pad just skating on the top of the polishing oils, instead of utilizing their abrasives. Typical application/product usage: two concentric circles around the perimeter of the pad for pad priming; then 2-3 pea sized drops for subsequent panels. Golden rule: always apply enough to avoid dry buffing
- Always use speed 6 when correcting heavier defects - especially paints like VW, BMW, which can be a challenge
- Your arm speed should be extremely slow - think of 0.5-1 inch per second; sometime even slower, depending on the imperfections
- Breaking down means that the diminishing abrasives in a polish reach their final, extremely fine state, and they practically disappear. Heavier products, such as compounds usually contain macro abrasives (gritty feel between fingers), while other types, such as finer polishes contain micro abrasives (lotion-like). The abrasives (grit) are 'agglomerates' which break down to smaller, finer particles 'primer crystals' as they work. This can happen mechanically and/or temp-sensitively. The bigger particles provide the initial bite, and the smaller ones finish down to a perfect surface.
When you working with a DA, the trace of the polish gets finer and finer as you break down the polish. When you reach a state when the polish is very thin and almost translucent, you broke it down completely. It is ready for removal. Don't work them until they start to dust because dust particles can mar the finish. In the end, you will end up with less (oily) residue, easier removal (less towels!).
OP & OC has nearly unlimited working time, so check your work often, until you get the desired surface quality. If you need even more cut, use the Optimum Hyper Compound
- There is no firm timeframe for the working time of a given polish. It'll change machine by machine, paint by paint, etc.
- You can start with a yellow cutting pad/OC, then orange/OC - SLLLOOOOOWWWW arm speeds, because it breaks down more efficiently that way and doesn't mar/haze the finish under itself. You decide if you wanted to use a white pad with OC. - Then you can switch to white pad/OP, black pad/OP - you'll see that each subsequent application will deepen the look and make the finish more perfect.

Final word: Optimum polishes are simply EXCELLENT products!

Scottwax · 04-22-06, 08:44

Quote:

Then I tried doing it at higher speeds and moving the tool faster, too.

No more than 1" per second for 3-4 passes. Kick the speed up to 6 too.

The paint looks flawless after the polishing steps. Noticably blacker too.

BLK_03 · 04-22-06, 09:02

I find the same thing as you.

I use SSR2.5 with a white pad for my first step in swirl elimination and it leaves the cloudy/micromarring you are talking about.

I then follow with Optimum Polish on a white pad, then black pad. White pad only or black pad only yields sub-par results. The combined passes of the black and white pad make it perfect, but wear me out!!! Wish one pass would do it...

Here is a pic that shows it. SSR2.5 on the right, Optimum twice over on the left...

ritchic · 04-22-06, 11:10

I'm still learning to use Optimum products and so far so good. But I have noticed VW paint is a pain to correct.

Surfer · 04-23-06, 05:30

I'm ordering the Optimum Polish, now I'm wondering if I should grab the compound as well? My suv is white (Ford). And I'm still not sure which one I should start with and with what pad, any ideas?

Your paint came out pretty good on the T-reg.

topnotch · 04-23-06, 06:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by ritchic

I'm still learning to use Optimum products and so far so good. But I have noticed VW paint is a pain to correct.

I will 2nd you on that. I have completed a few new Jetta's and Passat's and they have been a pita

needoptic · 04-23-06, 07:29

Thanks so much for the tips. I kept my PC speeds too low, I believe and overapplied the polish / compound. In fact I think I used way too much.

But thanks - these tips will put me exactly where I have to be when working on the other side of the car and I will report back.

Neo62381 · 04-23-06, 07:54

I've been getting extremely good results using OP with a grey or blue finishing pad! It pretty much finishes down perfect with a propel grey. As far as needing deeper cut despite removing most of the defects, I would just go at it again with the polish or the compund. A lot of people go buying aggressive stuff, after they have already polished the panel once and didn' get the results they desired. From the looks of it, you got rid of a LOT of defects, and if you really do need to go at it again, you could just make another pass and do fine.

needoptic · 04-23-06, 08:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neo62381

I've been getting extremely good results using OP with a grey or blue finishing pad! It pretty much finishes down perfect with a propel grey. As far as needing deeper cut despite removing most of the defects, I would just go at it again with the polish or the compund. A lot of people go buying aggressive stuff, after they have already polished the panel once and didn' get the results they desired. From the looks of it, you got rid of a LOT of defects, and if you really do need to go at it again, you could just make another pass and do fine.

Yeah, I'm actually perfectly fine with having a few scratches left over. It's a learning process and I'm sure I'll get them out the next time I treat the car.

Oh boy, I still have to do the front bumper / rear and the whole left side. End me now.

needoptic · 04-23-06, 08:55

One more question - i currently have the pads stored in separate ziplock bags. I did not clean them after finishing.

Can I keep them like that or should I clean them out? I will probably finish the car next weekend.