Buffer Trails from Hell

[Beason]

I was recently in a wreck and had my front end particaly redone. My hood was repainted after a dent was hammered out and noticed today in direct sunlight that there are buffer trails all over it. How hard is it to remove them with a PC? My strongest products are SSR2.5 and DACP. The shop said it takes 60 days to cure so I have time to get products if needed.

[roadmaster_Tx]

its not too hard, just make sure u wash and clay the vehicle properly and use a pc. You have the right polishes. Make sure you work the polishes in completley.

[Beason]

Originally Posted by roadmaster_Tx

its not too hard, just make sure u wash and clay the vehicle properly and use a pc. You have the right polishes. Make sure you work the polishes in completley.

Are they basically like removing swirls?

[GregCavi]

hit it with the lightest polish first. THey arent always the hardest to remove. Start with maybe an SSR1 if you have it, and if it doesnt cut it (literally!) then move up. My product of choice woudl be either menzerna FPII or optimum polish.

Greg

[Accumulator]

I wouldn't necessarilly wait for the paint to finish curing, as it'll be harder then. I've done it both ways, and unless the fresh paint is so soft that you keep micromarring it, I'd probably fix them now (especially since you're not using a rotary).

Buffer trails are the classic example of "swirls"; actually, these are the only *truly accurate* use of "swirls", it's what the word really refers to to those of us who care.

Just another form of marring, like light scratches. Sometimes they're a pain to get out, usually a) on hard paint and b when there was heat involved with putting them *in*. But quite often they're not that hard to polish out.

I'd expect the #83, followed by something milder, will take care of them. But yeah, you might try something milder first and see if that'll do it.

[gbackus]

I agree with accumulator. Fix it while the paint is soft, as the paint may harden to a point that the buffer swirls will only come out with rotary use.

[Beason]

Originally Posted by gbackus

I agree with accumulator. Fix it while the paint is soft, as the paint may harden to a point that the buffer swirls will only come out with rotary use.

Will the paint still be soft in a month?

[Scottwax]

They buffed with a rotary already right? Totally safe to use the PC to remove their buffer trails. I'd go with DACP and follow with #80 since #80 leaves a new paint safe layer of polymer protection.

[Beason]

Originally Posted by Scottwax

They buffed with a rotary already right? Totally safe to use the PC to remove their buffer trails. I'd go with DACP and follow with #80 since #80 leaves a new paint safe layer of polymer protection.

#80 is speed glaze correct? How long should I wait till I wax it after buffing? It was only painted wed.

[UnsanePyro]

Ihave the same problem actually.

I spoke with someone from Poorboys, and they said that the SSR line is safe to use on fresh paint. I used a little bit of SSR1 with a hand applicator to try it out, and it worked great, and that was a few weeks after the repaint.

[gbackus]

Originally Posted by Beason

Will the paint still be soft in a month?

That depends on how they mixed the paint, if they added hardeners, what ype of paint, brand, etc.

I've had paint come out both ways, really soft at first and then it becomes rock hard and almost unpolishable, or it stays so soft that breathing on it will mar the paint.

I can count on one hand how many repaints I've come across where the paint is right in the middle.

[Scottwax]

Originally Posted by Beason

#80 is speed glaze correct? How long should I wait till I wax it after buffing? It was only painted wed.

Wait however long the body shop says to wait before waxing. They should know their paint better than anyone else.

#80 is Speed Glaze.