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09-08-05, 08:59
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#1 (permalink)
| | Registered User
eric77 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Newport Beach, CA Posts: 228 | Claying is worthless! What do you think?
I use it occassionally, but I often find it hard for me to reach for clay when iknow I will be polishing the paint in the very next step anyways. Logically, since clay is a very ligth abrasive and polish is a heavier duty abrasive you would imagine the polish would do the job of clay and then some. I am still kind of split on this subject and deciding whether or not to keep claying customers' cars. It almost seems pointless if there is no overspray or anything of that sort.
I guess the question is would you clay after polishing???? If not, why do you clay before?  | |
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09-08-05, 09:10
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#2 (permalink)
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BigAl3 is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 6,603 | i would definitely not rule out clay. washing and polishing will not always get rid of all the contaminants stuck to the paint. just go by a case by case scenario and look/feel for smoothness.... | |
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09-08-05, 09:16
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#3 (permalink)
| | Now with twice the head
Scottwax is online now Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Arlington, TX Posts: 25,616 | Claying is almost always faster at removing bonded contaminents then polishing. | |
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09-08-05, 09:16
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#4 (permalink)
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Setec Astronomy is offline
Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 7,665 | I think the original argument for the clay was that when riding on a film of lube, it will "selectively" attack the high spots, where polishing will more uniformly attack the surface. Therefore, theoretically, the clay would remove less paint while removing the bonded contaminants than a general polishing. This of course would depend on how "bonded" the contaminants are. If they are not really stuck, then the polishing will probably remove them.
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09-08-05, 09:17
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#5 (permalink)
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eric77 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Newport Beach, CA Posts: 228 | Quote: |
Originally Posted by imacarnut i would definitely not rule out clay. washing and polishing will not always get rid of all the contaminants stuck to the paint. just go by a case by case scenario and look/feel for smoothness.... | ya thats ussually what I do, but if you think about it in what seems to be a logical way to me then you realize both are abrasives. One is a heavier abrasive so wouldnt it seem illogical to go with a light abrasive before the heavy abrasive? In a more extreme example its like taking the swirls out of a surface with a pc before sanding it down for a repaint. | |
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09-08-05, 09:24
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#6 (permalink)
| | Who? Me?
the other pc is offline
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 2,139 | There’s a lot of gunk that clay will remove quickly and efficiently without imparting any wear to the surrounding paint. Some of that crud will require a great deal more action by a chemical/abrasive cleaner than you would otherwise need to subject the rest of the paint to.
Clay is very selective, grinding down only those contaminants that stand above the surface. A chemical/abrasive cleaner will grind on everything, everywhere.
If the chemical/abrasive cleaner isn’t removing the contaminant efficiently the act of buffing will simply burnish it into the paint. That makes it take even more effort to remove.
A contaminant that has a grit component will be dragged across the surface when buffing. It would have been embedded in the clay, hydroplaning above the surface if you had clayed first.
PC. | |
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09-08-05, 09:30
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#7 (permalink)
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eric77 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Newport Beach, CA Posts: 228 | Quote: |
Originally Posted by the other pc There’s a lot of gunk that clay will remove quickly and efficiently without imparting any wear to the surrounding paint. Some of that crud will require a great deal more action by a chemical/abrasive cleaner than you would otherwise need to subject the rest of the paint to.
Clay is very selective, grinding down only those contaminants that stand above the surface. A chemical/abrasive cleaner will grind on everything, everywhere.
If the chemical/abrasive cleaner isn’t removing the contaminant efficiently the act of buffing will simply burnish it into the paint. That makes it take even more effort to remove.
A contaminant that has a grit component will be dragged across the surface when buffing. It would have been embedded in the clay, hydroplaning above the surface if you had clayed first.
PC. | I knew there was a reason i was wasting all that time doing that  | |
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09-08-05, 09:38
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#8 (permalink)
| | Who? Me?
the other pc is offline
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 2,139 | And while I’m on a roll… Quote: |
Originally Posted by eric77 …both are abrasives. One is a heavier abrasive so wouldnt it seem illogical to go with a light abrasive before the heavy abrasive?… | Clay is an abrasive that acts selectively, heavily on those objects projecting above the hydroplaning film, negligibly on the surface itself. Those objects that are not abraded are mechanically dislodged.
A chemical/abrasive cleaner is the opposite, acting primarily on the materials it was designed to abrade and maybe or maybe not others. Try sandblasting a piece of rubber and a piece glass. Which is harder? Which takes the greater beating?
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09-08-05, 09:46
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#9 (permalink)
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truzoom is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,642 | Try taking out sap or industrial fallout with polish
Clay is a great thing, and it only needs to be done 1 or 2 times a year depending on conditions; not too hard either-- just make it another step after rising off. | |
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09-09-05, 03:30
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#10 (permalink)
| | BANNED FOR SPAMMING
SVR is offline
Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: South Australia Posts: 2,465 | I'll always clay, twice in most times when doing a refinish job on paint
If you washed and machine polished a car with lots of fallout, you are simply taking the heads off of the fallout and revealing another sub layer of it
Polishing paint like that ain't fun and I'm not into these decontamination washes as they contain sulfuric acid or other types of acid and soften the clearcoat
If you clay first, as long as the paint is not chalky, after you do your machine work, clay again using a finer bar before doing the enhancing with VM, RMG, YCW or AIO and then seal the paint a few times
I've done clay magic blue then sonus ultra fine, diamondite speed clay and deep surface cleaner , optimum yellow opti clay and sonus ultra fine and gotten awesome results | |
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09-09-05, 03:40
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#11 (permalink)
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kgb is offline
Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 2,005 | Well, you could polish all of the contaminants in the paint or actually pull them out using clay. Pretty simple.
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09-09-05, 06:30
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#12 (permalink)
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wannafbody is offline
Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 5,666 | I've found clay removes bugs and tar faster and easier than polishes-spot claying is good
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